Suspension Texas Speedwerks Springs... launch!
Hook 'Em Horns!

Kidding, of course...
Either I didn't see it here nor on the web site, but I am curious what you do for bumpstops -- use the factory original or do the springs come with different bumpstops, ala HSport springs?
thanks,
Paul
thanks,
Paul
We re-use the OEM's... We recommend trimming the bottom segment off, which will allow for extra travel and yet still protect the shock/strut. If you trim too much off, the coils will likely bind before you hit the modified OEM bumpstop.
Last edited by txwerks; Nov 25, 2006 at 11:42 AM. Reason: edit for clarity
Uhh?? Isn't coil bind a bad thing?
And why would the design allow that to occur before hitting the bump stops?
What I meant to say is that if you trim the bumpstops too much, the coils would bind before your hit the stops - my apologies for the misdirection.
im still on the fence between these and the H-Sports i guess i need to pay agranger a visit and check out his car in person, my birthday is coming up and my MINI is getting new suspension for my birthday, i was thinking about the H-Sport Stage 1 kit with springs and bars but i might just get the TSW springs and the H-Sport sway bar.
We've never had them bottom out on the street. You will hit the bumpstop (trimming only the bottom segment) before the coils touch. We just tested the complete setup again on a shock dyno.
What I meant to say is that if you trim the bumpstops too much, the coils would bind before your hit the stops - my apologies for the misdirection.
What I meant to say is that if you trim the bumpstops too much, the coils would bind before your hit the stops - my apologies for the misdirection.
Question on the car in the pic. Does it have front camber plates? The reason I ask is that I picked up a bit of front height after installing my Helix plates. I'd hate to end up with a car with flat rake or even inverted. For the handlling reasons meb mentioned and to maintain low pressure under the car by maintaining a rake with the nose lower I'd like to make sure things stayed nice.
Aaron should confirm when he sees this but I believe the only mods on his car (other than appearance) are these springs and different brake pads - no camber plates. His car looks as awesome in person as it does in the photos and IMO the springs dropped it just enough.
FWIW, I have the M7 springs on my car and the rake is nearly flat so I won't go with the Helix plates and create a reverse rake. So, the Irelands, or the new H-sport plates are my only real choices unless I were to go with these springs, or coilovers.
FWIW, I have the M7 springs on my car and the rake is nearly flat so I won't go with the Helix plates and create a reverse rake. So, the Irelands, or the new H-sport plates are my only real choices unless I were to go with these springs, or coilovers.
You could always add a rear spacer for some rake. This one may be a bit too much at .5" though... http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NMS3010/InvDetail.cfm
You could always add a rear spacer for some rake. This one may be a bit too much at .5" though... http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NMS3010/InvDetail.cfm
This might also be used as an excuse to get height adjutables
Sorry that I've missed this thread... I'll try and answer some questions:
I'm still loving the new springs. The handling of the rear-end became much more predictable and stable when I installed the rear swaybar. The front-end cleaned up noticeably under hard cornering with the TSW Springs. The are stiffer than the stock springs, but they catch the car sooner on larger bumps at speed, making for an overall smoother ride. The most noticeable change is felt with hard braking... the front end doesn't dive like it did w/ the stock springs.
I'm running upgraded brake pads, a beefier rear swaybar, a UMP front lower strut brace and a TSW engine damper along with my new springs. All of my other mods are cosmetic... No camber plates, nothing else that might effect the look or suspension setup.
If anyone in Dallas wants to check out the car in person, send me a PM and I'll be happy to see what I can do.
I'm still loving the new springs. The handling of the rear-end became much more predictable and stable when I installed the rear swaybar. The front-end cleaned up noticeably under hard cornering with the TSW Springs. The are stiffer than the stock springs, but they catch the car sooner on larger bumps at speed, making for an overall smoother ride. The most noticeable change is felt with hard braking... the front end doesn't dive like it did w/ the stock springs.
I'm running upgraded brake pads, a beefier rear swaybar, a UMP front lower strut brace and a TSW engine damper along with my new springs. All of my other mods are cosmetic... No camber plates, nothing else that might effect the look or suspension setup.
If anyone in Dallas wants to check out the car in person, send me a PM and I'll be happy to see what I can do.
1. Conservative drop - for those out there that do NOT want a 1-1.5" drop. Not everyone wants a huge drop, and in our experience with the MINI's suspension, anything more than a 1-1.2" drop is not optimal for handling. There is such a thing as too low. While testing our coilovers, we found that lower is NOT better. We had plenty of travel left, yet, the lap times actually increased. There is a happy medium. Also, the world is full of things that like to eat cars that are too low... And, not all aftermarket struts play well with lowering springs - case in point, the Koni FSD's, which are designed for not much drop.
2. Linear rates - why? Well, linear rates provide more predictable performance. It's been our experience in racing that linear springs are the way to go. The idea of a progressive spring is great, but IMHO, it leads to less predictability at the limit. The OEM MINI springs are linear for a reason - their engineers spent countless hours setting up the suspension. We've spent countless hours engineering and testing spring rates and designs... Linear is the best setup, bar none, for the MINI.
3. Increase in spring rate over OEM - why? We've take 3/4" (average) of travel away, so we want a slightly higher spring rate to compensate for the loss in height. And, the OEM springs are NOT well matched to the OEM shocks/struts. In our testing, the OEM shocks/struts need a slightly higher spring rate - they have too much bound/rebound. Our springs match well with virtually any strut. They ride better with the OEM shocks/struts than any other spring on the market - period. We've been on all of them and they all have some disadvantage - we evened everything out, and ended up with a superior compromise in asthetics and performance.
One more thing: I've been driving on these for a few months and have NEVER bottomed out the suspension.
I drove a rally a few weeks ago that took us down what I can easily say was the single worst road I've ever driven on. The road was so bad that the local county had posted signs saying "County Maintenance of the road ends here" and "County Maintenance of the road begins here", so that people would stop calling 'em to come out and fix the road... I was driving at 10-15 MPH and steering AROUND the bigger holes... hitting all of the small ones, though. I never once bottomed out.
I drove a rally a few weeks ago that took us down what I can easily say was the single worst road I've ever driven on. The road was so bad that the local county had posted signs saying "County Maintenance of the road ends here" and "County Maintenance of the road begins here", so that people would stop calling 'em to come out and fix the road... I was driving at 10-15 MPH and steering AROUND the bigger holes... hitting all of the small ones, though. I never once bottomed out.
are you still alive? Been away for sometimes, totally forgot about you.
How can you be so negative and still live with yourself?






