Suspension Measuring Rear Camber...
Measuring Rear Camber...
1. How do you measure the rear camber by yourself?
2. What kind of tool do I have to use?
3. Or should I bring it to dealer, and do alignment and ask them to do it for me?
thanks in advance,
JOHN
2. What kind of tool do I have to use?
3. Or should I bring it to dealer, and do alignment and ask them to do it for me?
thanks in advance,

JOHN
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Bold, eh? This is important! No, really...
regarding 3. I once asked my dealer how much they charged for an alignment and the answer was...$200. They don't do it any better than Firestone, so pay someone else to do it.
But, more importantly, why do you want to measure rear camber? It's not adjustable on pre-'05 cars and only slightly adjustable on later cars. And if you do adjust the lower control arm, you adjust toe and camber simultaneously. See the many threads on this for more information.
cheers,
regarding 3. I once asked my dealer how much they charged for an alignment and the answer was...$200. They don't do it any better than Firestone, so pay someone else to do it.
But, more importantly, why do you want to measure rear camber? It's not adjustable on pre-'05 cars and only slightly adjustable on later cars. And if you do adjust the lower control arm, you adjust toe and camber simultaneously. See the many threads on this for more information.
cheers,
OK - Curbside tire alignment. Sounds cheesy, but it's pretty accurate and repeatable.
Toe-in/out: Get a sturdy tape measure with a small end clip (or a flimsy one and an assistant to hold the end), and measure the track, or a similar repeatable measurement from the left to the right tire (easy with tires with
a central stripe or circumferential tread blocks, hard with angled tread blocks). Be sure you measure up the same height from the ground on the front and back of the tire, and go up as far as possible while still clearing
the chassis. The difference between front and back is a fraction of the toe in or out, toe out = front of tire's track wider than back. Measure the chord from the front to the back measuring point =A; multiply the track diff x tire diam/A = toe in/out. i.e. 5/16" x 24" div by 20" = 3/8".
if you like degrees, then use your calculator - inv sin ([3/8]/24) = .89 deg. Check the measurements a few times to convince yourself that you're getting the same numbers. The steering has to be on center. If you've turned the wheel to get to the tie rod and turned it back, you have to
roll the car back and forth a little to take the preload off the control arms.
Camber: Get one of those 12" rulers from Sears with a T-square sidearm with a level (less than $10). Place it vertically, so the top and bottom of the ruler are touching the wheel rim, or if the wheel's spokes are in the
way, use the tire; make sure you're at the same diameter of the tire top and bottom. Pull out the top or the bottom of the ruler and measure how many mm or in. it takes to get level with a small rule. If you're on a level road, you're done, if not, spin the car around so the other side is facing, the curb, repeat,
and average the two readings. Camber = inv sin([distance pulled out to level /ruler length).
Caster: I don't bother trying to measure this, but it
can be done if you're really obsessive - more complicated
than the above.
SORRY this was so long. I've been doing it for years and it works.
Toe-in/out: Get a sturdy tape measure with a small end clip (or a flimsy one and an assistant to hold the end), and measure the track, or a similar repeatable measurement from the left to the right tire (easy with tires with
a central stripe or circumferential tread blocks, hard with angled tread blocks). Be sure you measure up the same height from the ground on the front and back of the tire, and go up as far as possible while still clearing
the chassis. The difference between front and back is a fraction of the toe in or out, toe out = front of tire's track wider than back. Measure the chord from the front to the back measuring point =A; multiply the track diff x tire diam/A = toe in/out. i.e. 5/16" x 24" div by 20" = 3/8".
if you like degrees, then use your calculator - inv sin ([3/8]/24) = .89 deg. Check the measurements a few times to convince yourself that you're getting the same numbers. The steering has to be on center. If you've turned the wheel to get to the tie rod and turned it back, you have to
roll the car back and forth a little to take the preload off the control arms.
Camber: Get one of those 12" rulers from Sears with a T-square sidearm with a level (less than $10). Place it vertically, so the top and bottom of the ruler are touching the wheel rim, or if the wheel's spokes are in the
way, use the tire; make sure you're at the same diameter of the tire top and bottom. Pull out the top or the bottom of the ruler and measure how many mm or in. it takes to get level with a small rule. If you're on a level road, you're done, if not, spin the car around so the other side is facing, the curb, repeat,
and average the two readings. Camber = inv sin([distance pulled out to level /ruler length).
Caster: I don't bother trying to measure this, but it
can be done if you're really obsessive - more complicated
than the above.
SORRY this was so long. I've been doing it for years and it works.
Originally Posted by cristo
Camber: Get one of those 12" rulers from Sears with a T-square sidearm with a level (less than $10). Place it vertically, so the top and bottom of the ruler are touching the wheel rim, or if the wheel's spokes are in the
way, use the tire; make sure you're at the same diameter of the tire top and bottom. Pull out the top or the bottom of the ruler and measure how many mm or in. it takes to get level with a small rule. If you're on a level road, you're done, if not, spin the car around so the other side is facing, the curb, repeat,
and average the two readings. Camber = inv sin([distance pulled out to level /ruler length).
way, use the tire; make sure you're at the same diameter of the tire top and bottom. Pull out the top or the bottom of the ruler and measure how many mm or in. it takes to get level with a small rule. If you're on a level road, you're done, if not, spin the car around so the other side is facing, the curb, repeat,
and average the two readings. Camber = inv sin([distance pulled out to level /ruler length).
If you take the car somewhere to be aligned, with coilovers, camber plates and control arms on it, make sure they will align it to Your custom specs. Some people say they will do a custom alignment but then won't adjust to anything out of factory specs.
Originally Posted by cristo
OK - Curbside tire alignment. Sounds cheesy, but it's pretty accurate and repeatable.
Toe-in/out: Get a sturdy tape measure with a small end clip (or a flimsy one and an assistant to hold the end), and measure the track, or a similar repeatable measurement from the left to the right tire (easy with tires with
a central stripe or circumferential tread blocks, hard with angled tread blocks). Be sure you measure up the same height from the ground on the front and back of the tire, and go up as far as possible while still clearing
the chassis. The difference between front and back is a fraction of the toe in or out, toe out = front of tire's track wider than back. Measure the chord from the front to the back measuring point =A; multiply the track diff x tire diam/A = toe in/out. i.e. 5/16" x 24" div by 20" = 3/8".
if you like degrees, then use your calculator - inv sin ([3/8]/24) = .89 deg. Check the measurements a few times to convince yourself that you're getting the same numbers. The steering has to be on center. If you've turned the wheel to get to the tie rod and turned it back, you have to
roll the car back and forth a little to take the preload off the control arms.
Camber: Get one of those 12" rulers from Sears with a T-square sidearm with a level (less than $10). Place it vertically, so the top and bottom of the ruler are touching the wheel rim, or if the wheel's spokes are in the
way, use the tire; make sure you're at the same diameter of the tire top and bottom. Pull out the top or the bottom of the ruler and measure how many mm or in. it takes to get level with a small rule. If you're on a level road, you're done, if not, spin the car around so the other side is facing, the curb, repeat,
and average the two readings. Camber = inv sin([distance pulled out to level /ruler length).
Caster: I don't bother trying to measure this, but it
can be done if you're really obsessive - more complicated
than the above.
SORRY this was so long. I've been doing it for years and it works.
Toe-in/out: Get a sturdy tape measure with a small end clip (or a flimsy one and an assistant to hold the end), and measure the track, or a similar repeatable measurement from the left to the right tire (easy with tires with
a central stripe or circumferential tread blocks, hard with angled tread blocks). Be sure you measure up the same height from the ground on the front and back of the tire, and go up as far as possible while still clearing
the chassis. The difference between front and back is a fraction of the toe in or out, toe out = front of tire's track wider than back. Measure the chord from the front to the back measuring point =A; multiply the track diff x tire diam/A = toe in/out. i.e. 5/16" x 24" div by 20" = 3/8".
if you like degrees, then use your calculator - inv sin ([3/8]/24) = .89 deg. Check the measurements a few times to convince yourself that you're getting the same numbers. The steering has to be on center. If you've turned the wheel to get to the tie rod and turned it back, you have to
roll the car back and forth a little to take the preload off the control arms.
Camber: Get one of those 12" rulers from Sears with a T-square sidearm with a level (less than $10). Place it vertically, so the top and bottom of the ruler are touching the wheel rim, or if the wheel's spokes are in the
way, use the tire; make sure you're at the same diameter of the tire top and bottom. Pull out the top or the bottom of the ruler and measure how many mm or in. it takes to get level with a small rule. If you're on a level road, you're done, if not, spin the car around so the other side is facing, the curb, repeat,
and average the two readings. Camber = inv sin([distance pulled out to level /ruler length).
Caster: I don't bother trying to measure this, but it
can be done if you're really obsessive - more complicated
than the above.
SORRY this was so long. I've been doing it for years and it works.
cheers,
JOHN
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