Mine is a "Home Depot". It was a good value but does not pivot. I just tightened that bolt by hand with the puller. It would be hard to overtighten in the cramped environment underneath a car on ramps. I am worried about that bolt working loose and checked mine after a week - it was fine. I have left the covers off for now and will check it once again before I put thme back on. I will also check after my next track day! I think that the new insert will increase the possability that chassis motion will try and looen that bolt. It would be very bad if it came loose - say in turn 12 at Road Atlanta. I did put a little locktight blue on it and did also lube the insert with silicon spray.
Wes

 

The thing about swivel head torque wrenches is the farther you get from perpendicular to the fastener the more inaccuracy you introduce.
Same with extensions and deep well sockets.

Just something to keep in mind.

 

obe, I was actually thinking the same thing when I typed the above. Like when using an extension, as I do sometimes on my wheels, am I doing too much, or too little? I'm guessing that I would need to add some more.... I like to torque them to 88, but if use an ext, I do 90...

 

Wes, just saw your reply...

I mark many bolt heads and nuts on my car so I can quickly & easily tell if any of them are coming loose. I will do the same with these as well. I like the idea of blue Loctite, and I do have some...

 

Hi Tony!

Did you install these yet?

 

After I buy a new torque wrench, and a 21 mm 1/2" drive socket, I will give it a go... It appears that this Sunday will be the day. I will take the necessary precautions (time) to make sure that I don't botch my alignment... I'll report back later, ideally that evening. Living in canyon, I'll get the opportunity for an impression quite quickly....

 

Well, I just backed my MCS up on wheel ramps, and I'll start scoping things-out, and marking per Wes's post earlier. Also, the Bentley manual recommends the same. For those who have one, please reference pages 330-3 and 330-14,15...

I will eventually put the front under ramps also so the car will be more properly loaded...

 

EDIT/ADD - Please read-on in this thread to get furhter information before proceeding simply with the info in this post....


I got the prepartory work done, and thought I would share some info, and photos...

First, the tools/stuff that I'll be using (click for larger image):



- floor jack
- wheel ramps, 2 sets
- 2 jack stands
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (flexible/pivoting head)
- ext pipe from floor jack for additional leverage
- 13/16" 12-point socket (I don't have a 21mm, but this fits quite well, I feel)
- 16mm socket, with ext
- cresent wrench
- phillips screwdriver
- slot screwdriver
- brake cleaner spray
- silicone spray
- paper towels
- a few Q-tips
- white-out/Liquid Paper
- small flashlight
============

Someone earlier said that the 3 mounting bolts required a 17mm socket, but it's actually a 16. A fairly long extenion, as seen, should work quite well on those...

If your car is like mine, then you'll encounter some grime around the trailing arm plate and bolt heads. This is why I mention brake cleaner, paper towels, and Q-tips. I spent about 15 minutes cleaning this area fairly well so I would have a clean surface to mark. I used Liquid Paper for this, and I think it will serve me well when it comes time to reassembly. Here a few photos so one can get an idea:







I was liberal with the stuff, as you can see! This will allow me to see the position & orientation of the bolt heads in relation to the plate (there are slots), and the plate to the frame. The last photo shows the 13/16" socket in place, and the reason why a pivoting head is needed. And, a universal, with the socket, would be a very tight fit, and might not be possible.

Oh, in order to see this, one will need to remove a "cover" on each side. There are four fasters, 3 requiring a philips, and one a nut (the reason for the crescent wrench). These come-off in like 3 minutes, and actually can be seen in the first photo, under the car... The small slot screwdriver is to hold the plastic expanding insert while unscrewing the fastener. I actually had enough fingernail to not need it though...

Before I forget, the red wheel ramps, as seen in the first photo, will not be desirable as they are. One will need room in front of the tires to work, and the inclines will be in the way. I will either reverse them, or put the black ones (minus ramps) in the rear, and the reds up front. Hope that makes sense...

This prep work, taking my time (and pictures) was about 45 minutes. I look to actually install the inserts (within the plastic bags, first photo), late Sat afternoon, or on Sun.

 

Nice as always Tony.
For those, like me, that won't have liquid paper handy nail polish will work fine.
Yes I'm married and the polish isn't mine

Another option for the tight fit is a torque wrench extension.

 

Obe, that is so cool! Thank you.

Yes, nail polish I've used before (on automotive projects), and actually prefer it, minus the smell. My wife was home with me, so I didn't want to risk it

For Wes and Keith, or any others who have done this, once I have the rear supported with tires dangling, how far will the trailing arm come-down after the removal of the 16mm bolts? I'm thinking that if it drops far enough, getting a straight shot on bushing bolt might be possible... Actually, I bet it needs to be broken free first though, while anchored by those bolts.

 

What's that magazine under your Bentley?
something ....boy, can't quite make it out.

 

Ah, good eyes Mickey!

Thats the June 2002 issue of "Playboy" magazine. It's an entertainment periodical for men, and that particular issue has a centerfold... of an MCS! While I was on the fence for a few months wondering if I would buy a MINI, when that issue arrived, the very next day I was on a wait list to get one!

Whenever I work on my MCS, I like to take this issue out with me, as a reminder of the moment I decided that this would be my first new car. AND, as an added bonus, these magazines have nude pictures of beautiful women, and that, like the MINI, just makes me happy. Just a no-brainer...

Yes, my wife knows... She finds it amusing, and knows that I'm a pretty sentimental guy. Hah, I got her fooled!!!

 

Are you going to take the bushing carrier out? I assume that is what the paint is for. If you haven't done that part yet, don't.

Here is all you need to do;

Put the rear on stands as high up as possible after removing the covers.

Remove the wheels

Disconnect both sides of the upper swaybar links. (this may be optional)

Remove the lower shock bolt (this may be optional).

Remove the bolt that holds the trailing arm to the bushing. Once it is out the arm will hover there.

Prise off the plate that is behind the bushing. It is held on with two little prongs.

Put in the inserts. I used anti seize, but I'm not sure if it is required.

Put the backing plate on and bolt the arm on. You may need to use the jack to help align the shock and endlink bolts.

I hope you see this in time. I planned to put together a how to with pictures on the next job.

 

Thanks for the photo's and soon to be "how to".
I will be planning on the same bushing replacement soon.
Really appreciate the extra work to photo-document this.
Good job!

ps
I've actually never seen one of those magazines, only in barber shops. I'm sure the MINI article must of aroused your interest.
OK, I'll stop.

 

002, thanks for chiming-in, and since I won't be doing this until later tomorrow, or Sunday... nothing done yet.

I was under the impression that the 16mm bolts that anchor the plate would need to be at least loosened-up, but from what you're saying, there is no need - and I'm glad to hear that! I was probably thinking of Keith who actually did a full bushing replacement...

When I installed comparable inserts in the engine bay (PowerFlex), a fender washer was required on at least one of them in order to keep the insert, well, properly inserted. Is the "backing plate" that you refer to adequate to do this, or should I consider something to better keep these inserts engaged, namely the bolt end (thanks Keith, just got your PM)?

Mickey, it looks like these "directions" will get refined as this thread proceeds... I'll be happy to share all that I can. 002 and k-huevo have paved the way on this one...

 

Where the arm connects to the bushing looks pretty good. The backing plate is only an inch wide across the bushing and may need some help. When I did my alignment recently, I noticed the part off the insert that is not covered was poking out of the voids. I haven't made up my mind about adding support. I don't want to bind up the bushing. Besides, there is still a noticeable improvement as is.

 

Well, I guess I'll see what you mean soon enough. If you happen to think of some type of piece that would be ideal for this application, kindly share. Sounds like the benefit is still pretty good regardless...

Note, Keith (k-huevo) did not do a bushing replacement. I must be losing track of communications going-on in other similar threads...

Oh, while the brake cleaner did a nice job cleaning-up the grime, one might want to use something like rubbing alochol instead. Brake cleaner can be harsh on paint (not much down there I suppose) and rubber. I was careful of where I directed it as I used the included thin red tube, but something to be cautious of... Thank you Keith.

 

Tony, you just got the cart before the horse, I haven’t replaced the brackets (bushing carriers) yet, but I will.

I have the replacement brackets and notice it takes only hand strength to move the bushing in & out a small amount. This is probably one of the reasons a design change was implemented.

 

[quote=TonyB]Well, I guess I'll see what you mean soon enough. If you happen to think of some type of piece that would be ideal for this application, kindly share. Sounds like the benefit is still pretty good regardless...quote]

Yeah, that's why I don't post too much. Trying to quickly get my thoughts out in a succinct post is maddenning. Though, if you saw my hand gestures, you'd know exactly what I meant.

 

Keith, that makes sense... finally a good reason for the change in early 2003. A smaller one would seem to deflect less than you explain in the larger ones that we have...

I'll be at The Home Depot tomorrow, and if anyone can think of something to pick-up to help remedy or improve these inserts, I'm all ears.

 

When I observed the trailing arm movement it only tracked up & down. I think the reason behind the narrow width of the backing plate and its fixed horizontal placement is to allow full range of motion on the vertical plane (actually between 5 and 11 o’clock). The dish shaped support piece on the later models is available separately if you were inclined to go the full coverage route.

 

Your posts have been very helpful, and not just in this thread. It does take time to get it all straight and clear, but it's certainly appreciated!

Keith, I was wondering about retrofit-ability... It can't be too expensive... That might be something worth purusing, but I'll continue with this project now, and maybe pursue that later...

 

The support piece ($3.00) would be the only easy retrofit. The trailing arm, axle carrier (assuming a difference in control arm spec), all of the fasteners and just about everything else on the rear suspension would have to be replaced to match the late model bracket & bushing. Here’s the parts list from Real OEM, you can see the part numbers end on May 2003. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...81&hg=33&fg=30
At this point we don’t have a public report on the degree of difficulty involved installing the poly bushing in the later model bracket. Sometimes you have to be careful what you wish for.

 

Hi Guys
Looks like today is the day. Tony and 002 - what 002 says may be correct - it may be possible to add the inserts without pulling the three 16mm alignment bolts. This is not how I did it. I did not pull the back tires or sway bar links or anything except the three bolts and the big bolt. Not sure what is easier as I only did it one way. I can recomend from my experience that you lossen the big bolt first and then drop the three bolts. The plate with bushing will drop about an inch (tires dangeling at this point). The it is easier to get a wrench on the big bolt to finish removing it. Install is reverese - run the big bolt in until it pulls up (but not tight) and then the three - align to marks and torque them down. Then put the back back on ramps and bounce on it a bit to settle things down and then torque (or tighten as best as possible in my case) the big bolt.
Good luck and have fun.

PS - update now with three weeks on mine. There is more rear road noise on bad rode surfaces - especialy grooved cement. It is annoing (louder than tires and exaust if the rear seats are down, but is acceptable (to me) if the seats are up. On smooth asphalt you would never no the difference. I have hit a few more 270degree off ramps and bumps in big fast sweepers now and am very happy with the improvment in rear bump steer. The rear does not step or twist to a new line like it used to. I also have alta 22 rear bar on max and ireland lower control arms (last weekend). This seams a great combo. My Koni FSD's just came in and that will be the final rear task (I hope). Still got ireland fixed camber plates and powerflex control arm bushings to do up front when I do the shocks soon.
Wes

 

Ok Tony, you got me out of chair and into town to take another look at the later model set-up. The bracket is in a different position than our 2003 version and allows twisting action during suspension travel. That is why it has a round backing plate (stopper) and conical boss on the trailing arm. I don’t think adding the later model stopper will be a viable option with any merit. The supports on the early model are way overbuilt compared to the later model, probably to handle the side loading. Here can be seen the two different models on the same page and compare the angle of the brackets. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...21&hg=33&fg=30
Here is the newer version close up and broken down into its parts. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...86&hg=33&fg=30
Notice the axle carrier gets an extra middle support on top and bracketing underneath (convertible only); interesting change.

Thank you Wesport for the noise info, that is one aspect that will weigh heavily in my decision to install the inserts or not.