Keith, any mention on Ireland bushings regarding their durameter rating? Just checked their website, and don't see any mention... It appears that they refer to the rear trailing arm as a "rear control arm."

http://www.iemotorsport.com/Merchant...=mini-bushings

That looks to be it though. Ordering now, hoping that I'll have them in time for a weekend install...

 

tonyb- can you do a how-to with a few picts when you do the install?

thanks.

 

I'll give it a go, and it appears this weekend!

I just spoke with Jerimiah at Ireland/MiniWerks, and he said that I should have them for a weekend install. They are also in CA...

 

BMW's site shows 05/03. Sometimes their date convention flip flops, so I'm not 100% sure if it is 2003 or 2005.

 

nice! good luck.

 

Yes, there are still some unanswered questions about the true end of the large bushing build date. One aspect of the design did change on 5/03 and that was the end of the self tapping set screw to secure the bushing. Since there are three part numbers it makes me think the large bushing design continued on until a later date but until someone with a late 03 to 04 build or a shop installer chimes in it’s less than definitive at this point.

I’m looking forward to hearing about one of the later model installs and how replacing the whole bushing goes.

 

I asked earlier, but I'm wondering what prompted the change. In some way the newer, smaller version is better. Maybe less give, or more rigid since it's smaller? I just like to know the motivating factors for the change. It cost BMW/MINI money to change this aspect, so the reasoning would be nice to know, or at least guesstimate...

 

You just want to know if it's lighter

 

Dang it obe! You know me too well

Actually, I didn't even think of weight, honestly. I suppose it might though...

 

...I thought the newer bushing was bigger... If not, then perhaps there wasn't enough metal around the bushing...perhaps they feared a failure.

 

Michael, in post 15 from Keith on the first page:

After receiving some contradictory information between PowerFlex and Mossmini as to which rear trailing arm bushing model would be correct for my 12/02 build date MINI, I did a little research. The large yellow insert PFR5-110 will fit my 12/02 2003 model build and at least up to 03/03 which is 002’s build. The smaller purple bushing PFR5-1102 is for later models; for sure on 04/06. The date at which the bracket, bushing, and trailing arm changed is still unclear. Real OEM shows a possible change on 05/03...

==========

I am supposed to get mine today... I have the first production week for 2003, so I'll see.

 

The later build bushing is smaller in diameter.

 

Definitely like to hear your post canyon run impressions.

I have an old '02 and I'm about to order these.

 

Well, I'm a little bummed...

I called a couple times today (I got someone each time), and just found-out because they were swamped, it didn't get shipped to me until yesterday... So, no bushing until Mon, and no install until next weekend.

Since I work from home on Fridays, I can probably do it then... Drat!

 

oh well.. hate when stores do that to ya.

 

Got the bushing via DHL just as I was leaving for work this morning. From my recollection, compared to the PowerFlex yellow inserts, these feel much stiffer... which is fine with me!

I checked for a 21mm socket over the weekend, and no dice. I have a few 22's, and several on to 36mm...

If I did my math correctly 21mm equates to .82677" making 13/16 a tad too small, and 7/8 a bit big at .875", but I think it will be fine...

I'll give it a shot this Friday...

 

Sears has them. The local store has them in stock. Maybe you have one close.
Does that help?

 

There are more than a few 21mm bolts on the MINI. An easy one to try for a standard socket comparison fit would be the lower bolt on the rear strut.

 

Thanks guys. If I will most likely use it again, like on other parts of the car, I don't mind getting one. It ain't the money, just the hassle I guess. Keith, I like the idea of trying the 7/8" on the lower strut bolt!

Oh, not that it's probably a big deal, but this item comes with no directions. I was hoping to have a list of tools needed, and torque settings, but I'll check the Bentley manual later...

 

The torque on the control arm bolt will be as tight as you can get it AFTER you have got it sitting on ramps or something that loads the rear suspension. You will not be able to get a torque (or any other straight wrench on it) as it needs a little kink. I hope you have a 1/2 drive ratchet with a flexible neck joint. The three alignment bolts (17 I think) can be gotten at with a straight extension. I think they wear 87ft lbs - I will look it up and update. The big one was like 156 or something.
Wes

 

Wes, thanks much for the good info! I assume you mean the trailing arm... I think the only flexible head ratchets I have are smaller ones. What about putting a "universal" on the ratchet? Heck, I'm not sure that's the proper term to explain it...

 

A 13/16th will fit, but it’s very snug and you will need some wiggle room so get the right socket. The trailing arm bolt is 122 ft-lb. and it helps to have a flex head on the torque wrench. If you don’t have at least an 18 inch long (24 inch is better) ½ inch drive breaker bar, now is the time to get one. In my youth I could always count on muscle power to make due with small hand tools; now I wonder why I ever thought leverage was a luxury. Get the 21mm in ½ inch drive to break it loose & torque and use the 13/16th with a 3/8ths swivel head ratchet to do the boring stuff. Rent, borrow, or buy (my recommendation) a ½ inch drive, flex head torque wrench that can torque values greater than 125 ft-lb. This is one of those critical fasteners I would not leave to chance.

 

Keith, thanks. You are always full of helpful info!

I do have a breaker bar, and a decent sized one... With my Craftsman torque wrench on the fritz, it's time for a new one anyways. Unfortunately, this item does not apply to their lifetime tool warranty...

I'll also buy a 21mm socket, 1/2" drive. Is depth important here?

Also, is this something where I can easily foul-up my wonderful alignment? Also, any recommendations on a torque wrench, please share. I sort of doubt less than 100 bucks will be possible with this one...

 

Yes - you can screw up the alignment. So mark the plate that holds the trailing arm to the floor pan with a pencil - just trace around the corners. Also mark (circle) the bolt heads. The (three) plate to floorpan bolts are slotted for toe setting. Stangly - mine went back together exactly where it came apart from with no help. Got lucky on that one!. As to depth of the 21mm socket - I would say that less is better as you need a flex joint or flex head on it and there is not a lot of room as the bolt is at an inclined angle that will put the head of your wrench up close to the floorpan.
Good luck - bye the way you do not have to pull the rear wheels or anything else. Just pull the plastic cover plates (there is one hidden screw above) and have at it. You will need to "dangle" that back wheels to be able to rock things around a bit to get the bolts out and back in. When re-assembling - torque the three alingment bolts (back on your marks) but leave the big bolt (trailing arm) a little loose. Sit the back of the car down on something (I used some 4x6 blocks as my ramps were already busy up front). Then torque the big bolt with the back springs fully loaded. This is vital to center the "slack" of the bushing at a normal ride hight or else you will tear up or bind the bushing.
Wes

 

Wes, you explain matters very clearly! I'll get the other set of wheel ramps ready... and I'll start doing some homework on a torque wrench purchase. The first few I found on the net don't have a pivoting head, but I'll check The Home Depot one night after work... I truly appreciate the detailed info!