I know I saw it around here somewhere just cannot find it. But i have a track day coming up in two days and I need to install my rear anti roll bar without dropping the subframe. I know it has been done and I saw a DIY somewhere but now I cannot find it. Does anyone know how to do this or remember seeing I think it was Randy or someone eplain how to do this?
Thanks any help is appreciated and I dont want to screw my allignment up before the event is the reason that I ask.
Thanks

 

Dropping rear subframe is no biggie at all. Just do it. With Randy's style of antisway bar, you don't need to, since it is straight torsion bar. To remove stock bar, they cut off one end of it. I don't think you can install traditional bar without dropping subframe. The frame does not shift. Just don't strip out the bolt when you reinstall. It's easy. I'm a clutz at mechanics but could do it in a couple of hours. (Alta 22mm bar)

 

Yeah, follow Randy's how-to. There's four bolts that need to be taken out to drop the subframe. Also, it's a lot easier to get the subframe bolts back in oce both strut assemblies have been re-attached.

 

The subframe is only 4 bolt (unless you have a droptop, then its 5). I've seen it done where the frame wouldn't drop, its MUCH MUCH more work. YOu can use a floor jack to get the frame back into postion, makes putting the bolts back much easier, and yes it will line up (you'll understand this when you go to put the bolts in). It should take 2 hours first time, 1-1 1/2 after that. Really speed things up to remove both shocks as well.

The alignment isn't affected by doping the frame because it all ataches to the frame (which drops as one piece) and bolts back into the exact same spot, only thing changed is the sway bar.

Also be sure to throughly test the handling with the new bar before going to the track so you know what to expect as far as oversteer.

 

Word!

Good to be sure, especially if you put the bar on the stiff setting. It makes a world of difference.

 

It was very visible to me that the sub-frame did have a tiny bit of play in the bolts when you mount it... I don't know home much difference it would make and I haven't had mine in for an alignement yet... ( 2 years later 8~(

 

Personal experiance +1

 

I did mine on an 04 MCS last night. I used the jack to push the frame back up, then used a 1/2 inch rod in the "spare" hole to pry the frame forward enough to start the bolts. Pulling BOTH struts was required, but takes only minutes. The bolt marks on the subframe are about 1/8 off center, but I think that is due to pulling things into place, not a final misalignment.

A short trip up the street to my "test corner" confirms the comment above, I will approach certain corners at my favorite track with great care until I learn what causes the car to oversteer! (22 MM bar, softest of 3 settings).

John