Suspension Head count regarding broken inner/outer ball joints
Originally Posted by meb
Anyone experience either a failed inner or outter ball joint? If so, at what mileage?
Thanks,
Michael
Thanks,
Michael
However you have me curious, are you talking about the front lower ball joints? When you say inner or outer, it makes me think you are talking about c-v joints.
Did you have something break?
...not sure, but something feels loose.
The control arm's front pick-up point is a ball joint, not a typical bushing. I've got to chase this down before Saturday. My stuff always breaks just before a track event sending me into girly hissy fits.
The control arm's front pick-up point is a ball joint, not a typical bushing. I've got to chase this down before Saturday. My stuff always breaks just before a track event sending me into girly hissy fits.
A Good Question
Meb,
I've got 26,000 miles on my 2003 MINI with 16 heavy duty track days. I haven't had any problems with the ball joints and watch them like a hawk. I even have a spare set ready to go in an instant.
Regarding your "loose" feeling: Have you checked the U joint pinch clamp at the end of the steering column, or the inner steering rack ball joints, or the top mount of the struts?
What is going on Saturday? Do you have a track day planned?
Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle
I've got 26,000 miles on my 2003 MINI with 16 heavy duty track days. I haven't had any problems with the ball joints and watch them like a hawk. I even have a spare set ready to go in an instant.
Regarding your "loose" feeling: Have you checked the U joint pinch clamp at the end of the steering column, or the inner steering rack ball joints, or the top mount of the struts?
What is going on Saturday? Do you have a track day planned?
Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle
Yes John, I'll be at Lime Rock Park.
Inner steering rack ball joints...inner tie rods? The same thing? Or is there some other component I've not seen? U joint pinch clamp - I'll check that one tonight; I'm removing and reinstalling as much as I can just as a double check. I've got a spare set of outter tie rods.
In reality, the looseness is felt subtly at any steering angle mostly in rebound but sometimes in bound. Very subtle. The steering is as direct as ever. The Megans are new-ish. I'm sort of suspect of the control arm bushing or perhaps the new Alta endlinks; I adjusted these as short as possible in an effort to keep the bar end and control arm parallel at ride height...not possible though, the endlinks are long. I may need to raise the front end a hair.
The Megans have a pillow ball mount. I also modified mine to fit flush under the strut tower. So, there is very little room for flex here...energy potentially being passed onto some other component??? That's how it works.
Any other ideas John? Thanks!
Michael
Inner steering rack ball joints...inner tie rods? The same thing? Or is there some other component I've not seen? U joint pinch clamp - I'll check that one tonight; I'm removing and reinstalling as much as I can just as a double check. I've got a spare set of outter tie rods.
In reality, the looseness is felt subtly at any steering angle mostly in rebound but sometimes in bound. Very subtle. The steering is as direct as ever. The Megans are new-ish. I'm sort of suspect of the control arm bushing or perhaps the new Alta endlinks; I adjusted these as short as possible in an effort to keep the bar end and control arm parallel at ride height...not possible though, the endlinks are long. I may need to raise the front end a hair.
The Megans have a pillow ball mount. I also modified mine to fit flush under the strut tower. So, there is very little room for flex here...energy potentially being passed onto some other component??? That's how it works.
Any other ideas John? Thanks!
Michael
Well, you've done a lot of work
Michael,
Didn't realize all that you have done. Sounds great and is probably fine, but you are not used to the feel. I hope that is the case, anyway.
The inner tie rod ends are what you said: inner steering ball joints. Same item. Mine have not loosedned, but it is possible that the initial assembly, when MINI was born, wasn't perfect. You'll have to pop the outer tie rod end from the spindle to test for looseness. Found that the outer tier rod end comes apart so easy with a basic tie rod removal clamp. Don't use the pickle fork and hammer routine.
I am at sea with the adjustment of the tie rod ends as well. Jeff wrote me how to do it, but I cannot find the link. Sorry. I tried the "parallel to the ground" theory as well, to get equal anti-roll bar leverage in compression and rebound. Finally just compared the Alta end links to the stock end links and lengthened the Alta end links by the amount I lowered the car.
Have a great time at Lime Rock and let me know how it went, PM or post.
Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle
Didn't realize all that you have done. Sounds great and is probably fine, but you are not used to the feel. I hope that is the case, anyway.
The inner tie rod ends are what you said: inner steering ball joints. Same item. Mine have not loosedned, but it is possible that the initial assembly, when MINI was born, wasn't perfect. You'll have to pop the outer tie rod end from the spindle to test for looseness. Found that the outer tier rod end comes apart so easy with a basic tie rod removal clamp. Don't use the pickle fork and hammer routine.
I am at sea with the adjustment of the tie rod ends as well. Jeff wrote me how to do it, but I cannot find the link. Sorry. I tried the "parallel to the ground" theory as well, to get equal anti-roll bar leverage in compression and rebound. Finally just compared the Alta end links to the stock end links and lengthened the Alta end links by the amount I lowered the car.
Have a great time at Lime Rock and let me know how it went, PM or post.
Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle
meb- remember the time when everything was so simple.... keeping things stock or near stock.. (like mine)
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Kenchan - many times when this advise is better than any.
I was reminded by K-huevo in a PM to lengthen my endlinks...I've way too much going these days and playing under the car is complicating all else...but I love car stuff. So, I guess I can offer this excuse; I was upside down under the car and did this in reverse. does this count as a legit excuse?
I shortened these by the amount I lowerd the car...and, obviously ran out of threads. That should have my light bulb. Basically, I should not be allowed to work on my own car.
John,
I'm not sure I'm following the compression,rebound idea with regard to the swaybar. Can you elaborate? Are you trying to get the swaybar to move equally up and down off of a mean ride height center line?
Making the tie rods level with the ground...for bump steer? If so, and if I remember, I think the best way - also the hardest - is to point the tie rods at the instantaneous center. Finding the instantaneous center in practical reality is another story...perhaps a book.
I was reminded by K-huevo in a PM to lengthen my endlinks...I've way too much going these days and playing under the car is complicating all else...but I love car stuff. So, I guess I can offer this excuse; I was upside down under the car and did this in reverse. does this count as a legit excuse?
I shortened these by the amount I lowerd the car...and, obviously ran out of threads. That should have my light bulb. Basically, I should not be allowed to work on my own car.John,
I'm not sure I'm following the compression,rebound idea with regard to the swaybar. Can you elaborate? Are you trying to get the swaybar to move equally up and down off of a mean ride height center line?
Making the tie rods level with the ground...for bump steer? If so, and if I remember, I think the best way - also the hardest - is to point the tie rods at the instantaneous center. Finding the instantaneous center in practical reality is another story...perhaps a book.
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