As some of you know I opted to install Megan Adjustable coilovers. Like a few here, I've experienced mushrooming despite good damping and a conservative drop. While repairing my strut towers from a hatchet man (a new thread coming with lots of very ugly pictures) I looked at the Megans a bit closer; the perches are as flat as Nebraska just like the bottom of the strut towers. However, the three studs that fasten the strut to the tower are themselves held in place by tiny nuts atop the Megan perches. So, these three tiny nuts reside between the top of the Megan perch and below the strut tower - and allow all impacts to become three point loads.

If I remove the stock studs and nuts and install my own M8x1.25x30mm studs (bolts), the Megan perch can be flush mounted below the strut tower. The only down side is that these new bolts will have hex heads that will require access from below while going thru the torquing process. In fact, if I purchase 40mm studs, I'll be able to add the M7 thingy and essentially create a sandwich - with the strut tower firmly between.

Now, I'm tired, so challenge my thinking. I did send a PM to Steve and in all fairness he has not been able to repsond - it's a weekend - he deserves down time.

Michael

 

If you can get that plate to fit flush on the bottom and perhaps sandwich it with our top plates it would make for a very strong set up. It does sound like installation may become a two man operation but should be worth it.

Randy
m7 Tuning

 

I agree. I think I am going to see if I can get some longer studs for the Dampers so that they can be compatible with Randy's (M7's) plates.

 

Randy,

If this is a fix, I don't care if it takes 5 men...er women, whatever. I just need to figure out how to get the H-sport strut bar to fit your plates...but I'm sure I'll find a way...a competitor, sorry...but I have your USS!

Michael

 

Okay then Steve, I'm going to do this tomorrow. Is there anything I should be aware of with regard to the perches? I see this as a very simple remove the stock bolts and install new M8x1.25x 30 or 40mm depend upon the application...40mm won't hurt anything.

A couple of lock washers between the bolt and the bottom of the perch and perhaps a very thin but sticky rubber membrane between the top of the perch and the bottom of the tower...the purpose here is to create a way for some shock to be absorbed by the membrane without diluting the purpose behind the pillow ball...any thoughts?

Glad you chimed in Steve!

Randy, I need plates man!!!

Michael

 

Hey Meb,


Just as an idea , why don't you sell your other bar and just buy the whole M7 bar? You can get the $ for the difference in the plates to the full bar with the sale of your current bar. Hope that helps

ps I may need to call you since you have your car set up now and I need advice on some of my settings.

 

I don't care who's product you use as long as you end up with a good solution. I can save you some work though and tell you that the H-Sport bar will not work in any way shape or form with our plates. If you combine the two it will make the H-Sport bar too tall and will not let the hood close. Also their mounting plate uses different holes as you know in the top of the tower itself. H-Sport has some great products, I have their sway bars on my car as we speak . If you still want to go ahead and give it a shot I would have no problem sending out a set of plates and as long as they dont get marked up take them back if my guess turns out my guess is correct.
As for running bolts thru that is not a problem really it is just was easier with one on top and one below turning the wrenches. I replaced some of my stock studs with bolts do to some overzealous torquing back in the day and got used to the minor hassel. Keep in touch and feel free to PM me anytime. There are no weekends at M7 LOL

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

K9,

Selling the H-Sport makes the most sense...damn it! Another to do thingy.

...setup...what you ask for may be very different from what you get. I've paid nearly $900.00 for two different setups and niether were/are track worthy. Like jlm and Onasled advised; if you want a job done right, you gotta do it yourself. 3 is a charm...I hope

 

I'll give it a shot...I see these plates as part of the solution. Steve and I are sharing one very small possible concern, but I'm still moving forward. I think we have that one solv ed too - said like the Pink Panther.

Thanks for helping too Randy.

 

michael,
forget the sticky membrane and just glue the bottom washer and hex head to the bottom of the megan plate with a contact cement like barge. it will hold enough to get the bolt torqued, but you can break the bolt loose later if you have to later. (this worked on my one-man seat belt bolt installation.)

 

flyboy2160,

The rubber membrane is designed to create a little cushion for the perch - it will reside between the top of the perch and the bottom of the strut tower; no metal to metal contact in other words - a metal-rubber-metal sandwich. Any thoughts?

Michael

 

The Megan perch indeed fits flush with the bottom of the strut tower - once the three nuts are removed. And, this allows the studs to sit a 1/4" higher above the top of the strut tower - worrying about how much thread is left when installing a strut bar is no longer a worry.

When the M7 thingy arrives, the strut tower will be sandwiched between both.