I just spent $3400 on a set, no droplink for the fronts will work with them without being custom fabricated since it requires a very skinny droplink to clear. The center shaft is too tall to work with the RDR camber plates, we used the Webb plates which worked OK, but, the shaft sticks up so high that you cannot use the adjustment tool to adjust the top adjustment when running 2+ degree's of negative camber. You can, however, use an 8mm wrench to adjust it so its no big deal. But, the droplink issue is not acceptable for something thats supposed to be made for the Mini and costs $3400. Also, Webb Motorsports had to machine some bushing's as well.

I'm now waiting to see if I can get a custom droplink fabricated. Webb is working on it, so, I'm sure they will come up with something.

These things sure do look good, I just wish they were actually made for our Mini's as advertised, or, at least some compatible droplinks should be provided and the correct parts for the install. It makes me wonder if Moton has ever tested these on ANY car before selling them. What a Joke IMO.

Will update......

 

Man, you paid a whole lot's money for those. Turner Motorsports quoted $2700 to me a few weeks ago.
I have a set coming soon so I will look into these issues that you have. Are you saying the the hiem joint does not fit due to the mounting hole being to close to the strut?

 

Wow, thats real nice. $2700 huh? I guess maybe I was charged extra for the disposal fee's for all the extra parts that were needed.

Honestly, on the issues, I was not there to witness it myself, I was only told that the aftermarket ones would not work because of the thickness of the droplink. When the wheel is turned, it apparently was hitting something. Thats all I know, I'll have to ask Webb for more specifics.

If I don't get something resolved real soon, I'm going to be forced to pull them off and ship them back. I'm leaving for my first National Tour and Prosolo in 2 weeks to the day, so, this leaves me with no setup time. Its amazing what planning 5 months in advance of the season gets you!

Craig

 

yikes thats no good. youd think for paying so much they might fit good too. does it say fabrication required on the box? :impatient. that ridiculous. havent seen ya in a awhile though oasis. pm me if you get a chance about that group buy.

 

Yeah, I just walked in the door last night on the drive home in the new JCW STX car on my 2 week excursion out west at the San Diego National Tour and Fontana Prosolo, so, I've been gone for a good bit.

actually, correction on the Moton price that I paid, they were $33xx.xx. Not $34xx.xx. Still, thats crap.

Why they don't fit properly? I'd say because Moton didn't test them at all, thats my guess.

Never again will I buy something that hasn't been tested before hand.

Poor Webb Motorsports has to clean up the crap that Moton has produced with Machining parts and spending hours and hours of extra shop time trying to make a $3300+ coilover work. So, in the end, Webb is also as big of a loser as I am thanks to Moton. For me though, its not only the extra time and money, its the 2006 SCCA Solo II season thats fast approaching with no setup time. Now that pisses me off more than anything. Thanks Moton! ;-)

 

Hmmmm, .... can't wait til mine come...
I'll post on this thread when I get them and see if we have the same experience.
Sorry to hear that these are causing you guys so much trouble. I'm assuming that maybe the droplinks hit the inside strut when turning the wheel.

 

I think thats what the issue was.

With the thinner droplink that Webb quickly fabricated, it worked just fine until it popped off the bottom, it was such a rush job though with me on the way to pickup the car, he wasn't able to make another one since I had to leave. the passengers side held just fine though. By the time you receive yours, hopefully we will have the issue's resolved.

 

Here is a pic of the drivers side with a quickly fabricated skinny droplink that still hits. When turned to the max to the right, the droplink and banjo for the remote resevoir hit. If they pointed the remote resevoir line forward, it would not be an issue. On the passengers side, there is a 1/2" clearance. Not sure what to think about this whole thing. Will post more tomorrow, still no reply from Moton all day. I guess they are out and abandon their business this week.

Real nice.

I'm told Moton did do testing on these before their release, so, I'm not sure how they could have missed these issues.

 

What front sway bar are you using? Stock?

 

Hmm. I was going to suggest you contact Tony Nuzzo, as I think he runs the Motons. Then I remembered that he doesn't use a front anti-roll bar. Sorry.
Jim

 

H-sport. If they only would have pointed the resevoir forward, there would be zero issues with clearance and I could use what I need to. Hopefully they will re-design and ship one that works.

 

Could you possibly mount the link to the lower control arm instead of the strut?
Jim

 

I'm not sure, I would have thought Webb would have done that if so. So, I doubt it. I really need a bent droplink to make it work it seems. I am meeting with a custom Fabricator tomorrow thats prep's Scoobies on a National level for Solo II. He's wanting to start making coilovers for Mini's now for Solo II and track, he said drop links won't be a problem if its possible to work around the design flaw produced by Moton. His Scoobie coilovers were on something like 4 of the top 9 ESP cars last year at the National Championship so he knows his stuff and is eager to produce the best possible setup for us as well, so, thats great news. Maybe I'll just end up shipping the Moton's back and getting a $3300 credit since they royally screwed the design and are not returning calls.:impatient

Craig Wilcox

 

This brings up an interesting topic on it's own. Doing this does completely change the geometry of the front sway bar. As we have it now the Mini preloads itself as soon at the wheels turn. The swaybar is constantly adjusting with every turn of the steering wheel.
Good, Bad??? Not sure, but if the swaybar were to be attached to the control arm then recalculation is needed on sizing the bar. An H-Sport front bar would no longer be stiff enough for the job. Also, you have now changed the pick up points and brought them inboard which makes big changes on the effectiveness of a bar.

I've been thinking about this a fair amount being I have a stripped out car these days.

 

Greg,

After our conversation I took a long look at the swaybar arrangement; I almost feel a bar would be better leveraged working from the control arms, but I don't know for sure. I'll try to perform some calculatins this weekend...perhaps next weekend when I've got the front end ripped apart.

Have you talked with Randy re this? I know he has a very light non-stock control arm. I wonder if he gave this any thought?

The farther out the swaybar mounts, the better the leverage. But there is a lot of crap in there....


Re Nuzzo's car; I ran a 1981 Ford Fiesta with a 1 1/8" rear bar and no front bar. I never missed the front bar, but the spring and damping rates compensated - at some level - read, stiff. Race cars can get away with much higher spring and damping rates. So the total swaybar contribution to wheel rate is a smaller ratio than on typical road going fare. More rear bar helps acceleration mid corner to exit on a front wheel drive car. What 'more' is depends upon everything else, not a black and white statement.

Consider going barless up front...sounds almost naughty...

 

Actually, I think in SCCA STX class I would not be allowed to do this, thats probably why it was never considered.

 

Oh! Then, you're required to use the same end link attachment points? Does this also mean you cannot modifiy the end link?...

 

I can use a different end link, just not different attachment points I assume. I'll look into it though to be 100% sure but I'm 99% sure thats correct.

 

I almost asked if the units could be spun 180, but then the tires will make contact...unless you reduce the numeric offset...this sounds just plain wierd. I would be a little annoyed. Any help from Moton? If you are like me, and prone to being absent minded, there is a simple reason behind this...

 

No help from Moton as of today.

The banjo bolt attachment for the resevoir just needs to be moved 90 degree's, thats the simple solution.

Not sure why they didn't see this issue. I didn't do the install, it was Webb Motorsports, so, if there is a simple reason behind any of this, they didn't see it so I assume there is no simple solution.

Craig

 

Sorry to be a P in the A Craig, but...do any of the moton components spin with respect to one another?

 

.... not sure if this is what you were asking Michael, but are you sure that the struts are on the correct side? Would it even make a difference?

 

I wanted to ask that question Greg...only because I would actually do that. I just assume most folks are more alert than I, so I left the question in my brain.

 

Could it be that the H-Sport bar is slightly wider than the stock bar? It looks to have plenty of clearance in that area with the stock bar - I wonder if the bar has anything to do with it. It sure would seem weird if Moton didn't check things out ahead of time.

Jake

 

I have no idea. If Webb installed them opposite from their intended side, I would be very suprised. I think it can rotate freely, but, then the mounting point will be out of wack for the droplink.

I'll check the opposite side thing tomorrow. I do know they did machine parts that were not in the kit, so, hopefully Onasled receives all thats needed for the install.

Craig