Suspension So I just installed a new rear sway bar
#1
So I just installed a new rear sway bar
Bought it used from a guy on NAM about a week ago and finaly had a chance to install it last night.
I help manage a shop so I have full access to air tools and a lift.
I was helping a friend of mine work on his transmission and bsing with my ex-college roommate who i have not seen in almost a year so I was not working on the car the whole time. It took me about an hour and a half from the time i got the car up on the lift till the time I got it back down. I think I could have done it in less then an hour without the bsing.
I do have one question though.
My bar has three holes in the end I currently have the bar at the middle setting.
Which setting is the stiffest setting the front hole or rear hole? I was not sure so just set it in the middle.
I help manage a shop so I have full access to air tools and a lift.
I was helping a friend of mine work on his transmission and bsing with my ex-college roommate who i have not seen in almost a year so I was not working on the car the whole time. It took me about an hour and a half from the time i got the car up on the lift till the time I got it back down. I think I could have done it in less then an hour without the bsing.
I do have one question though.
My bar has three holes in the end I currently have the bar at the middle setting.
Which setting is the stiffest setting the front hole or rear hole? I was not sure so just set it in the middle.
#3
Ok thats kind of what all three of us figured while we were looking at it I was just making sure.
I just left it on the middle setting to see how I Liked it.
I will probably go to the stiffest setting sometime this week or next to try it out.
I always want to see how fast I can get something done since everything is always in book time.
I friend of mine that was an auto body guy till he got hurt bad was great at doing this.
He could do a job that was say 6 hours by the book in 4 hours or so but he got paid for the book time.
By doing that he could make say 10 hours worth of money in less then eight hours.
I just left it on the middle setting to see how I Liked it.
I will probably go to the stiffest setting sometime this week or next to try it out.
I always want to see how fast I can get something done since everything is always in book time.
I friend of mine that was an auto body guy till he got hurt bad was great at doing this.
He could do a job that was say 6 hours by the book in 4 hours or so but he got paid for the book time.
By doing that he could make say 10 hours worth of money in less then eight hours.
#7
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#8
Originally Posted by forevercornered
what do you torque them to?
I torqued the subframe bolts and used the impact gun on the bottom strut bolts and then an air rachet on the top struts bolts and sway bar to subframe bolts.
I just moved up to the stiffest setting today and wow.
The car has no understeer now and I think actually may have a little bit of oversteer in some situations.
#9
Originally Posted by Azwed
I think actually may have a little bit of oversteer in some situations.
I have a UUC 19mm bar set on soft setting and can let the back swing out pretty much at will, was kinda scary at first, but I've gotten used to it a bit.
#10
Originally Posted by sfjames2
Is that everytime you let off the gas burning thru a turn??? Be careful with the bar on the stiffest setting. If your not ready, you could be in for a bad time.
I have a UUC 19mm bar set on soft setting and can let the back swing out pretty much at will, was kinda scary at first, but I've gotten used to it a bit.
I have a UUC 19mm bar set on soft setting and can let the back swing out pretty much at will, was kinda scary at first, but I've gotten used to it a bit.
I don't mind a little bit of oversteer and this seems like just enough.
#12
While at our last track day, many, many people suddenly figured out that setting their 22 mm rear bar on the stiffest setting would cause snap oversteer mid-corner if they weren't butter smooth with the throttle - and many people went off because of it. We backed quite a few off to the middle hole - and for the people with camber plates up front, they went to the softest setting. Made a big difference...
If you're expecting the rear to step out, that's one thing - but if it snaps out, you have almost no time to correct and by that time, many people were already way out of sorts. It's almost impossible to recover at speed on the track in that situation in a FWD car - there's a better chance in a RWD one, where throttle application and opposite lock and bring the rear end in quicker. Glad most people learned the 'both feet in' mantra and used it in those situations, though...
Just be careful - I personally like a neutral car, not one with a tendency to step the rear end out at the drop of a hat... and especially not when I don't expect it. I want to tell the car what to do, not let the car tell me how to drive it... That little bit of oversteer you have now could turn into a LOT more on the track if you decide to take it out...
If you're expecting the rear to step out, that's one thing - but if it snaps out, you have almost no time to correct and by that time, many people were already way out of sorts. It's almost impossible to recover at speed on the track in that situation in a FWD car - there's a better chance in a RWD one, where throttle application and opposite lock and bring the rear end in quicker. Glad most people learned the 'both feet in' mantra and used it in those situations, though...
Just be careful - I personally like a neutral car, not one with a tendency to step the rear end out at the drop of a hat... and especially not when I don't expect it. I want to tell the car what to do, not let the car tell me how to drive it... That little bit of oversteer you have now could turn into a LOT more on the track if you decide to take it out...
#13
Originally Posted by scobib
While at our last track day, many, many people suddenly figured out that setting their 22 mm rear bar on the stiffest setting would cause snap oversteer mid-corner if they weren't butter smooth with the throttle - and many people went off because of it. We backed quite a few off to the middle hole - and for the people with camber plates up front, they went to the softest setting. Made a big difference...
If you're expecting the rear to step out, that's one thing - but if it snaps out, you have almost no time to correct and by that time, many people were already way out of sorts. It's almost impossible to recover at speed on the track in that situation in a FWD car - there's a better chance in a RWD one, where throttle application and opposite lock and bring the rear end in quicker. Glad most people learned the 'both feet in' mantra and used it in those situations, though...
Just be careful - I personally like a neutral car, not one with a tendency to step the rear end out at the drop of a hat... and especially not when I don't expect it. I want to tell the car what to do, not let the car tell me how to drive it... That little bit of oversteer you have now could turn into a LOT more on the track if you decide to take it out...
If you're expecting the rear to step out, that's one thing - but if it snaps out, you have almost no time to correct and by that time, many people were already way out of sorts. It's almost impossible to recover at speed on the track in that situation in a FWD car - there's a better chance in a RWD one, where throttle application and opposite lock and bring the rear end in quicker. Glad most people learned the 'both feet in' mantra and used it in those situations, though...
Just be careful - I personally like a neutral car, not one with a tendency to step the rear end out at the drop of a hat... and especially not when I don't expect it. I want to tell the car what to do, not let the car tell me how to drive it... That little bit of oversteer you have now could turn into a LOT more on the track if you decide to take it out...
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