So to start off with, was looking into a solution for the infamous "cant use Koni FSD with lowering springs" problem. The gist of it is there isn't enough travel to lower with fsd because the valve mechanism in the fsd wont function right if you cut the travel. Ok so how do we add travel? Well i think i found a solution here.

"The 60mm OE front bump stops (~200 lb/in rate) touch after 20mm of wheel travel in compression. The rear 56mm bump stop touch after 40mm of wheel travel" that's for the OEM bump stops. The aftermarket ones linked above are 47 in the front and 58 in the back. This would allow an additional 13mm of travel in the front, theoretically. The JCW springs for example are a 10mm drop. So theoretically, you get lowering with FSD AND additional 3 mm of travel which should help prevent the FSD failing. Please guys correct me if im just way off base here with the thinking, i most likely am but i got excited and wanted to share with you all.

 

JCW springs on FSD with FatCat bump stops should be just fine.

 

Are you running that or what evidence dictates that answer?

 

He FSDs need a little bit of suspension movement to work their magic. This is why they say don’t use them with lowering springs. Most lowering springs take away the effective travel from the FSD shocks, which causes them not to work correctly. JCW springs only lower very minimally, which should still be ok with the FSD shocks. Adding FatCat shorter bumpstops in the front will further help with effective travel. Thus, my statement above.

What is your goal with modifying the suspension? Handling upgrade? Ride improvement? Stance?

 

Smoother handling, pairing it with a RSB and new trailing arm and control arm poly bushings. I guess you could say one step before track as a DD. I would like to close the arch gap a tad but not have to compromise to koni yellows.