Suspension BC Racing for F56 BR Type RA with camber plates
BC Racing for F56 BR Type RA with camber plates
Hello, I just wanted to share this as it appears there's no pictures available for this kit, it may well be one of the very 1st around.
It's the BC Racing BR Type RA, T-04 for F56 with DCC electronic suspensions. A version for cars without DCC is available as well.
Being a RA it includes front camber plates, as well as sway bar links, front 5mm spacers (necessary for the OEM front wheels, but the car has 12mm spacers all around so we won't need these)
The suspensions are adjustable in height and in compression.
There is some perplexity about how reachable the rear compression adjustment will be once fitted... the front is conveniently placed at the top of the strut.
Tomorrow we'll fit them to a Mini F56 JCW, more pictures coming as well as feedback about how they ride.
The DCC has already been disconnected and turned off by coding the ECU.
Alternatively Eibach has two kits of cheaters, one to be soldered to the OEM wiring, one plug&play, much more espensive.
Along with the suspensions we're also fitting a JB4 tuning module, Endless MX72 pads, HEL performance brake hoses with Motul RBF660 fluid.









It's the BC Racing BR Type RA, T-04 for F56 with DCC electronic suspensions. A version for cars without DCC is available as well.
Being a RA it includes front camber plates, as well as sway bar links, front 5mm spacers (necessary for the OEM front wheels, but the car has 12mm spacers all around so we won't need these)
The suspensions are adjustable in height and in compression.
There is some perplexity about how reachable the rear compression adjustment will be once fitted... the front is conveniently placed at the top of the strut.
Tomorrow we'll fit them to a Mini F56 JCW, more pictures coming as well as feedback about how they ride.
The DCC has already been disconnected and turned off by coding the ECU.
Alternatively Eibach has two kits of cheaters, one to be soldered to the OEM wiring, one plug&play, much more espensive.
Along with the suspensions we're also fitting a JB4 tuning module, Endless MX72 pads, HEL performance brake hoses with Motul RBF660 fluid.









This means they have a large spring, without a spring seat.

Nitron, BC and KW Clubsport for F56 have a spring seats. PSS9 doesn't.
So you need a camber plate with an integrated spring seat compatibile with wide springs. There is a thread here for the only kit available at the moment for the F56, from K-MAC:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-plates.html
I had mixed experience with camber plates for stock wide springs, they often knock and the springs move around, because it's designed to work with a rubber mount...
thks for the advise, i might have a look at it, the possibility to connect your DDC with it, instead of flushing down € 600 for an obsolete extra, is interesting.
Also interesting note, you have to see that KW offers DDC options but can't connect their F56 OE shocks with it as they don't get info from MINI. Either MINI or KW are obvious Dumbos !
I don't know if the quality of the BC Brand, but as a "factory like" solution not bad.
Also interesting note, you have to see that KW offers DDC options but can't connect their F56 OE shocks with it as they don't get info from MINI. Either MINI or KW are obvious Dumbos !
I don't know if the quality of the BC Brand, but as a "factory like" solution not bad.
Originally Posted by mega72
are these the double adjustables?
Originally Posted by Clutch Wotan
thks for the advise, i might have a look at it, the possibility to connect your DDC with it, instead of flushing down € 600 for an obsolete extra, is interesting.
Also interesting note, you have to see that KW offers DDC options but can't connect their F56 OE shocks with it as they don't get info from MINI. Either MINI or KW are obvious Dumbos !
I don't know if the quality of the BC Brand, but as a "factory like" solution not bad.
Also interesting note, you have to see that KW offers DDC options but can't connect their F56 OE shocks with it as they don't get info from MINI. Either MINI or KW are obvious Dumbos !
I don't know if the quality of the BC Brand, but as a "factory like" solution not bad.
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We lowered around 40mm all around.
I have to say I was surprised how comfortable the car is at 15 clicks from harder (total 33). We dialed in 5 more click at the front for a more direct feeling, the car rolls quite less. The kit is really good value, you get a bunch of stuff for your money!
Very nice, thanks for sharing. Wondering why you removed the entire front knuckle during installation. Is it that hard to get the strut out with it in? Would you recommend it for someone working in their garage with hand tools (no air)? Thanks!
Not sure why they did that either as it's definitely not necessary. I installed springs in my driveway and just put some weight on the rotor and the assembly popped right off the strut. Super simple.
Springs is one thing. Camber plates and dampers are something else. As you can see from the pictures the whole damper body must be removed from the knuckle, so it's much more convenient to remove it and work on it on a workbench.
J_L I think you can do it in your garage, but a lift will make things much easier.
By the way, since that fitmen we already sold two more kits. One was fitted yesterday. The customer was surprised by the comfort with medium setting and the adjustability.
We're going to fit another set in 10 days from now.
J_L I think you can do it in your garage, but a lift will make things much easier.
By the way, since that fitmen we already sold two more kits. One was fitted yesterday. The customer was surprised by the comfort with medium setting and the adjustability.
We're going to fit another set in 10 days from now.
Springs is one thing. Camber plates and dampers are something else. As you can see from the pictures the whole damper body must be removed from the knuckle, so it's much more convenient to remove it and work on it on a workbench.
J_L I think you can do it in your garage, but a lift will make things much easier.
By the way, since that fitmen we already sold two more kits. One was fitted yesterday. The customer was surprised by the comfort with medium setting and the adjustability.
We're going to fit another set in 10 days from now.
J_L I think you can do it in your garage, but a lift will make things much easier.
By the way, since that fitmen we already sold two more kits. One was fitted yesterday. The customer was surprised by the comfort with medium setting and the adjustability.
We're going to fit another set in 10 days from now.
Put the entire strut assembly back in with ease too.
Some people asked me how to adjust these:
They come pre-adjusted for pre-load, don't touch that.
Use the threaded body for height.
That must be adjusted, it's a fairly easy job, it's a wheel off job obviously but quite simple.
There are videos online, search for BC coilovers height adjustment.
To sum it up:
Measure the height of the car as stock and decide how low you want to go, for example: -40mm front, -35mm rear.
Fit them as they are from the box (check if right and left are adjusted the same).
Go for a short drive so it settles down, then measure the distances between hub center and wheel arches, write them down, calculate the difference between that and the wanted height decided earlier.
Lift the car, remove the wheels, measure the distance between the upper spring perch and the lower ring, move the the ring upward how much as necessary toward the top (if you need to go lower) and then rotate the whole damper body till it goes down inside till the ring touch again. You use the adjustment lever on the top ring to do so, but you can usually to most of the rotating by hand.
For the rear similar thing but regulating the adjustable spring perch. I suggest to also shorten the dampers body for the same length.
Fit back the wheels, put the car on the ground, go for a short drive, then measure again.
If required, repeat the process till the correct measurements are reached.
As for the damping: start from the middle, then go stiffer till it becomes hars-ish, then dial it back 2-3 click. The front can be adjusted from the engine bay, the rear needs to lif just that corner of the car to get enough room inside the wheel arch to reach the dial.
They come pre-adjusted for pre-load, don't touch that.
Use the threaded body for height.
That must be adjusted, it's a fairly easy job, it's a wheel off job obviously but quite simple.
There are videos online, search for BC coilovers height adjustment.
To sum it up:
Measure the height of the car as stock and decide how low you want to go, for example: -40mm front, -35mm rear.
Fit them as they are from the box (check if right and left are adjusted the same).
Go for a short drive so it settles down, then measure the distances between hub center and wheel arches, write them down, calculate the difference between that and the wanted height decided earlier.
Lift the car, remove the wheels, measure the distance between the upper spring perch and the lower ring, move the the ring upward how much as necessary toward the top (if you need to go lower) and then rotate the whole damper body till it goes down inside till the ring touch again. You use the adjustment lever on the top ring to do so, but you can usually to most of the rotating by hand.
For the rear similar thing but regulating the adjustable spring perch. I suggest to also shorten the dampers body for the same length.
Fit back the wheels, put the car on the ground, go for a short drive, then measure again.
If required, repeat the process till the correct measurements are reached.
As for the damping: start from the middle, then go stiffer till it becomes hars-ish, then dial it back 2-3 click. The front can be adjusted from the engine bay, the rear needs to lif just that corner of the car to get enough room inside the wheel arch to reach the dial.
Some people asked me how to adjust these:
They come pre-adjusted for pre-load, don't touch that.
Use the threaded body for height.
That must be adjusted, it's a fairly easy job, it's a wheel off job obviously but quite simple.
There are videos online, search for BC coilovers height adjustment.
To sum it up:
Measure the height of the car as stock and decide how low you want to go, for example: -40mm front, -35mm rear.
Fit them as they are from the box (check if right and left are adjusted the same).
Go for a short drive so it settles down, then measure the distances between hub center and wheel arches, write them down, calculate the difference between that and the wanted height decided earlier.
Lift the car, remove the wheels, measure the distance between the upper spring perch and the lower ring, move the the ring upward how much as necessary toward the top (if you need to go lower) and then rotate the whole damper body till it goes down inside till the ring touch again. You use the adjustment lever on the top ring to do so, but you can usually to most of the rotating by hand.
For the rear similar thing but regulating the adjustable spring perch. I suggest to also shorten the dampers body for the same length.
Fit back the wheels, put the car on the ground, go for a short drive, then measure again.
If required, repeat the process till the correct measurements are reached.
As for the damping: start from the middle, then go stiffer till it becomes hars-ish, then dial it back 2-3 click. The front can be adjusted from the engine bay, the rear needs to lif just that corner of the car to get enough room inside the wheel arch to reach the dial.
They come pre-adjusted for pre-load, don't touch that.
Use the threaded body for height.
That must be adjusted, it's a fairly easy job, it's a wheel off job obviously but quite simple.
There are videos online, search for BC coilovers height adjustment.
To sum it up:
Measure the height of the car as stock and decide how low you want to go, for example: -40mm front, -35mm rear.
Fit them as they are from the box (check if right and left are adjusted the same).
Go for a short drive so it settles down, then measure the distances between hub center and wheel arches, write them down, calculate the difference between that and the wanted height decided earlier.
Lift the car, remove the wheels, measure the distance between the upper spring perch and the lower ring, move the the ring upward how much as necessary toward the top (if you need to go lower) and then rotate the whole damper body till it goes down inside till the ring touch again. You use the adjustment lever on the top ring to do so, but you can usually to most of the rotating by hand.
For the rear similar thing but regulating the adjustable spring perch. I suggest to also shorten the dampers body for the same length.
Fit back the wheels, put the car on the ground, go for a short drive, then measure again.
If required, repeat the process till the correct measurements are reached.
As for the damping: start from the middle, then go stiffer till it becomes hars-ish, then dial it back 2-3 click. The front can be adjusted from the engine bay, the rear needs to lif just that corner of the car to get enough room inside the wheel arch to reach the dial.
Cool! Thanks for a post! I'm also looking on BC coilovers.
Can you describe how it handles now? What's changed?
Since I've fitted the 1st set I already fitted another two and shipped some others.
I'm quite impressed with the ride quality and adjustability. It's no Ohlins, but once set up correctly it's smooth and the car handles quite well.
The front end, with increased camber, is sharper and tire wear is much better.
Less roll and pitch, it absorb potholes and other obstacle well.
For this price I think they are unbeatable...
I'm quite impressed with the ride quality and adjustability. It's no Ohlins, but once set up correctly it's smooth and the car handles quite well.
The front end, with increased camber, is sharper and tire wear is much better.
Less roll and pitch, it absorb potholes and other obstacle well.
For this price I think they are unbeatable...
Hmm, I just received mine and they look nothing like this. I bought the BR model of their suspension, but the ones sent to me were the RN, not the RA. I received no front camber plate or anything that you would think would be associated with the kit. kind of a disappointing day to be honest. I have emails into the company I bought it from and BC in order to figure out what happened.
On the application list on the official Taiwanese website it's pretty clear about what's available: RA and RN:
http://www.bcec.com.tw/download/Application%20List.pdf
Specs are here:
http://www.bcec.com.tw/products/new%...oducts-BR.html
RN without top mount, RA with pillowball top mount. Seems the dealer you purchased from is not very competent...
http://www.bcec.com.tw/download/Application%20List.pdf
Specs are here:
http://www.bcec.com.tw/products/new%...oducts-BR.html
RN without top mount, RA with pillowball top mount. Seems the dealer you purchased from is not very competent...
I wouldn’t say that at all. The bcracingna.com site doesn’t display the same information. After talking to bc racing North America, it appears that they no longer offer the ra kit. I think that they just didn’t fill anyone else in on the decision.
I think they didn't update the website, it's that simple.
BC Racing Uk has the same issue, the website is incomplete but every kit available on the Taiwan site (where the factory is) can be ordered.
Just ask you seller about the top mounts and fitting hardware to convert RN to RA. If it's not available in the US you can probably wait for the next shipment from the factory.
BC Racing Uk has the same issue, the website is incomplete but every kit available on the Taiwan site (where the factory is) can be ordered.
Just ask you seller about the top mounts and fitting hardware to convert RN to RA. If it's not available in the US you can probably wait for the next shipment from the factory.



























































