I have my 2004 R50 Cooper which currently has strut towers which are not mushroomed. I would like to keep them that way. In Vermont winters it has to deal with frost heaves and in Massachusetts it has to deal with pot holes. I am also planning on prepping it for rallycross. Doing some research I see there are 2 different styles of reinforcement, some which are mounted on top of the strut tower and others which are sandwiched between the top of the strut and the tower. What is the community's opinion on which style is best, particularly in a car which may see some suspension abuse? Thanks in advance.

 

The easiest for DIY is the external plate. Remove the nuts, place the plate then tighten the nuts back down to 25#. Easy peasy. Several of the vendors carry M7 which are just fine.

 

I have the M7 ones and they were easy to install and have worked well,
despite our rough Pennsylvania roads.
Having said that, the other style between the strut and the tower are supposed
to offer even more protection, but are more involved to install.

 

As someone who is willing a capable of pulling the strut out of the tower would it be more beneficial to get ones which go between the strut and tower? Or will the top mounts be sufficient to protect from rough roads and rallycrosses?

 

6 to 1 or half a dozen to the other. The effect is the same. How much trouble do you want to submit yourself to? On the other hand, the plates are a one beer project and the insert...??
I've had the M7 plates for about 4 years and they remain as reliable as an anvil.

 

I always recommend the top plates as we even have our own.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-st...0-r52-r53.html

My second choice would be our Craven plates
https://www.waymotorworks.com/strut-...0-r52-r53.html

the plates that go under the tower are much harder to install and raise the ride height reducing camber which we don't want.
When you start racing you'll want camber plates anyway.

 

As Way said, the under plates change suspension geometry, top plates don't. I like the Craven or VIP as you get full contact on the strut screw threads.

 

+1 on the VIP plates. The machined nuts give full thread engagement when mounted and an optional strut tower bar is available.

 

I would put some camber plates on, like eibach they work with stock spring hat

 

It looks like the overwhelming recommendation is to get top mount plates. I do like the sound of those VIP plates where I can add a strut bar later.

 

why when you can add camber plates and get camber which these cars reallllly need

 

A few reasons:
1) camber plates are not designed to reinforce the strut tower.
2) I am happy with the way my Mini currently handles.
3) Alignment changes don't provide any noticeable improvement in times at rallycrosses (while I will be doing some occasional autocrosses the car is going to be prepped for rallycross) due to the unpredictability of the surface and the variation run to run.

Maybe someday I will do camber plates but for now there are mods much higher on the priority list.

 

IE Fixed plates? Compromise of both adding a little more camber and protection?

 

It's not a big savings, but it's $20 less on the VIP website if you buy them at the same time. The only issue with the bar is the hood might pop up slightly at the back depending on how firm your hood pad is. Wetting it down a few times will soften it up so it will conform to the bar.

 

We run the MINI Madness plates on our MINI, but it is lowered so we have zero issues with them. What I like about these plates is that they mount below the strut tower and cover 100% of the usable strut tower surface area for maximum strength. Other plates cut a small notch in the aluminum surface for fitment atop the strut tower which madness states weakens the plate by 50% or more. Check out our tech article on the install of the plates for some good info and images. Can read more info on the plates that go on top and below HERE.