Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.

Suspension Clunking after spring install

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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 03:19 PM
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mcguir6799's Avatar
mcguir6799
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Clunking after spring install

I installed some NM engineering springs today and after about 10-15 miles I have developed a clunking type noise in the front end over bumps. I checked all the bolts to ensure they were tight and everything looks good. Anyone else have this issue once they put their springs on? I did cut my bumpstops according to the instructions. Rides seems a lot better and what I was looking for but the clunk is driving me nuts.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 04:37 PM
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Make sure the nut on top of strut is tight��, impact gun tight.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 04:39 PM
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Used an impact and then did it the old fashioned way just to be sure. Wrench and an Allen wrench
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 04:41 PM
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If your 100% sure its tight then check the sway bar end links/bushings for excessive play.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 04:43 PM
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They couldn't be "too tight" could they? I will lift it back up and check those. Can you get to the nut from the top or will I have to remove the entire assembly again? Didn't pay attention to that part.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 04:57 PM
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Just pop the top cap off the strut mount and hit it with an impact gun. Sometimes the strut will want to spin, best method to prevent this and make sure it's tight, is to wrap a latex glove around the upper portion of the strut and grab it there with channel locks.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 05:11 PM
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I have those same springs on my 09 S, they ride nice, not too rough and have a decent drop on them.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 06:04 PM
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Sway bar end links. They've gotta be super tight. Best to get a thin wall open end wrench to hold them while you tighten. Using the hex key to hold it while tightening may not let you get it tight enough. Tight passenger and driver sides if you had loosened both sides.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 05:27 AM
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v10climber
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Originally Posted by neonsteve
Sway bar end links. They've gotta be super tight. Best to get a thin wall open end wrench to hold them while you tighten. Using the hex key to hold it while tightening may not let you get it tight enough. Tight passenger and driver sides if you had loosened both sides.
Torque spec is 41 ft*lbs I believe. I've never had a clunking factory endlink when tightened to spec.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 08:04 PM
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Yeah that was it. I had forgotten I loosened the upper link nut and then decided to remove the lower. Must have forgotten to re tighten or didn't tighten it enough. Got it snugged down real nice using my kobalt straight through sockets and an Allen wrench. Works out great that way. Springs so far are fantastic. Everything everyone said was spot on. Using stock struts for the time being until Koni has their usual yearly sale in June.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 04:49 AM
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I think that Koni has a sale going on now, might want to check.


Glad that you are happy.


Have fun,
Mike
 
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 05:11 AM
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i would use an open face wrench on the sway bar side and a socket on the nut side. I know it has the space for the allen key but in my experience you can never get it tight enough. I had to do both sides of mine twice before they stopped backing out. The first time i used the allen key and the second the wrench. You will be surprised how much tighter it will go.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mtechnik2
Make sure the nut on top of strut is tight��, impact gun tight.
Tight, yes. This is very likely your culprit, but not impact gun: they can ruin the internal valving of the shock. Torque it by hand.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 02:28 PM
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I appreciate the comments, the issue was the sway bar link being about a turn loose. I corrected this
 
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