2004 MCS, 130K. I think its time to start replacing some more front suspension parts (LCA bushings already replaced with Powerflex.) My question relates to the ball joints. Anybody have a good sense for the extent to which the inners wear out faster or slower than the outer? How do you determine whether the inners need replacing without dropping the subframe, at which point you might as well replace them anyways? TIA.

 

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I can't help regarding the wear, but I'm currently pricing out replacing all of the ball joints, control arms, LCA bushings and tierods. Best price right now seems to be Rock and Pelican.

I'm at 113000 kms (Winter driven too) and everything seems fine. I'm keeping this for the long haul and want to change over to FSD's and figured to replace them all while I'm there.

 

If you are dropping the subframe to replace the LCAB I would have them on hand, the inner ones to replace with higher miles. Can you see the boot on the inner torn and rust coming from under the boot, like the outer would have when water get into the boot. Looks for physical problems. I did mine when I dropped the frame to make sure everything else was secure and tight. Then had it aligned and GTG. Felt much better in the steering like the days it was new.

They are slower to wear compared to the outer and tire rod as then tend to take more of a beating on the suspension. Other then using a small pry bar while on a rack and looking for some movement in the bushing.

Link to front suspension parts

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-joints.html

Thanks and hope that helps.

 

Thanks.

 

I'm currently doing control arm bushings control arms inner and outter ball joints inner and outter tie rods
I went with madness motor works complete control arms with everything already pressed it was actually quite a good deal might check it out

I got all my ball joints off rock auto they're by moog and deez both reputable brands

 

Like everyone else is saying, if you are going to drop the subframe anyway....just replace ALL of the ball joints. I just did mine, they are a piece of cake once you get the subframe dropped down. Rockauto has good prices on the ball joints.

 

I replaced mine recently at different times - I don't mind working on my MINI, always looking for an excuse to take it apart.
A clunk went away when replacing the inners. The outers firmed up the ride a bit.
If you're on a budget just do the inners with the LCA bushings. The outers are easy to replace later on.

 

I just dropped my subframe to replace the LCA bushings. I replaced all the ball joints and the inner and outer tie-rods (jam nut was seized). I went with all MOOG parts from Rock. Thanks to this forum and the tech info on Pelican, dropping the subframe and replacing all the parts is super easy. Had my car up on jackstands for a weekend in the garage going slow and getting it all done right. IMO I would just combine it all into 1 big project and replace everything you can while its apart. Better then having to drop the subframe more then once.

 

Thanks folks, but the issue is that the subframe was dropped when the LCA bushings were done and I don't want to pay to have it dropped again unless necessary. So, the question is - how do I determine whether the inner ball joints are worn WITHOUT first dropping (perhaps unnecessarily) the subframe?

 

(Off subject)
Just how difficult is the subframe to drop? Also the control arms and control arm bushing do I need to have those pressed together or will they join somewhat easily?

 

To my understand if the joints are still firm and the boots protecting them aren't torn or in bad shape then you should be good. With you not dropping the subframe I would say a visual check of them.
I believe Bavarian auto has a video on their blog explaining the ball joints a little and checking them.

 

My boots were all good, the felt firm...but when I would back up and hit the brakes, you could hear the joints click. It was time to replace them.

Dropping the subframe isn't that bad. It sounds scary, but if you take your time and follow all of the DIY threads people have on doing it....you can drop it down in around 1 hour or maybe a little more. It's just a matter of removing a bunch of bolts and screws, and dropping it down. Pretty simple really.

 

Cool I just bought the control arm setup from madness all new ball joints an I'm thinking I'm gonna put a sway bar on while I have the subframe dropped depends on funds I know the shop wants a fortune to do it all

 

If you are not going to do a new sway bar, at least replace the sway bar bushings while it's down. Upgrades are not that expensive.

 

I did just that replace all the bushings up front with poly urethane