Suspension camber question.....
camber question.....
iv heard the mini front camber is very limited from the factory.......
If i upgrade to swift springs/koni shocks will i need to buy camber plates to have a -1.5 street setting in the front?
If i do need plates is there and alternative to adjust camber without the plates to give a max of -1.5 in the front?
If i upgrade to swift springs/koni shocks will i need to buy camber plates to have a -1.5 street setting in the front?
If i do need plates is there and alternative to adjust camber without the plates to give a max of -1.5 in the front?
I think you can only go about -0.6 stock without camber plates. The only way to get -1.5 in the front is with aftermarket camber plates.
Check out the Vorschlags, one of the best out there:
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...ent_bolts.html
I have a set of these, they're solid and reliable.
Check out the Vorschlags, one of the best out there:
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...ent_bolts.html
I have a set of these, they're solid and reliable.
A daily driver doesn't really need a lot of negative camber.
I think you can only go about -0.6 stock without camber plates. The only way to get -1.5 in the front is with aftermarket camber plates.
Check out the Vorschlags, one of the best out there:
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...ent_bolts.html
I have a set of these, they're solid and reliable.
Check out the Vorschlags, one of the best out there:
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...ent_bolts.html
I have a set of these, they're solid and reliable.
what settings would prefer for a daily driver / spirited weekend driver
-5 front -2 rear?
For a daily driver they don't make a whole lot of sense. You'll just wear out the tires faster. If you want to make the car turn better a bigger rear sway bar makes a lot more sense. No affect on alignment or ride quality either.
Last edited by countryboyshane; Feb 14, 2013 at 11:43 AM.
As for numbers it depends. What kind of handling characteristics do you want? What are your damper settings front and rear? Do you have a rear sway bar? How stiff is it?...etc. The suspension components all work together as a whole.
I can tell you though that -5 in the front is way too much for even serious track duty.
You can read up on some other posts that talk about camber settings to get an idea of what most people are running.
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I'd avoid -5 degrees though.
For the track, I would run around -2 front camber perhaps a little more. Running -1.5 is too little.
When we dropped both our 07 MCS on H&R springs and the CLubman on Eibachs both gained camber due to lowering. BEtween -.9 & -.7 on both cars. Rights were less than the lefts on both cars for whatever reason.
We had Ireland fixed plates on the MCS but since we don't autocross the car any more I just recently had the removed. We did have right at -1,7 on both fronts with the fixed plates and the springs.
We had Ireland fixed plates on the MCS but since we don't autocross the car any more I just recently had the removed. We did have right at -1,7 on both fronts with the fixed plates and the springs.
Definitely worth the tradeoff though if you plan to track the car.
I run -2.1 all the time with negligible camber wear.
0.4 degrees is a negligible difference so probably due to the tire compound I was running before.
The Dunlop Z1 Star Specs seem to be holding up better than the Nitto NT05s which were fantastic on the track as are the Dunlops.
The Dunlop Z1 Star Specs seem to be holding up better than the Nitto NT05s which were fantastic on the track as are the Dunlops.
Not too fond of Nittos myself. A little too noisy and lack some grip and feedback especially during the first couple of track days. Give the BFG R1 a try next time. Hoosiers are great but just a little too expensive for two-three track days per set.
I am thinking that -2.5 front camber is perhaps a little too much to run as a street and track setup, although I know someone who used to run that much all the time.
Give the BFG R1 a try next time. Hoosiers are great but just a little too expensive for two-three track days per set.
I am thinking that -2.5 front camber is perhaps a little too much to run as a street and track setup, although I know someone who used to run that much all the time.
I am thinking that -2.5 front camber is perhaps a little too much to run as a street and track setup, although I know someone who used to run that much all the time.
I tend to agree. I think I may dial down the camber a bit to something more tame for the street while still providing benefits for track use.
After reading some of these posts, I thought I'd chime in with some general info.
You shouldn't use a different car model as a reference point for suspension settings. Every car is different -- some drastically so. Some cars need a lot of negative camber, while others need very little. Caster, bump steer and toe will also factor into how much camber you should use. Also remember, camber primarily benefits cornering, but hurts breaking. Too much camber will wear out your tires faster, seriously degrade braking and lead to unpredictable handling.
The easiest way to tell if you need more camber is to look at your tire wear. If the outside shoulder is wearing faster than the inside, you need to add more negative camber. If your tires are wearing evenly, you do not need anymore camber, no matter what number you are at. Tire wear is the ultimate measurement.
You shouldn't use a different car model as a reference point for suspension settings. Every car is different -- some drastically so. Some cars need a lot of negative camber, while others need very little. Caster, bump steer and toe will also factor into how much camber you should use. Also remember, camber primarily benefits cornering, but hurts breaking. Too much camber will wear out your tires faster, seriously degrade braking and lead to unpredictable handling.
The easiest way to tell if you need more camber is to look at your tire wear. If the outside shoulder is wearing faster than the inside, you need to add more negative camber. If your tires are wearing evenly, you do not need anymore camber, no matter what number you are at. Tire wear is the ultimate measurement.
After reading some of these posts, I thought I'd chime in with some general info.
You shouldn't use a different car model as a reference point for suspension settings. Every car is different -- some drastically so. Some cars need a lot of negative camber, while others need very little. Caster, bump steer and toe will also factor into how much camber you should use. Also remember, camber primarily benefits cornering, but hurts breaking. Too much camber will wear out your tires faster, seriously degrade braking and lead to unpredictable handling.
The easiest way to tell if you need more camber is to look at your tire wear. If the outside shoulder is wearing faster than the inside, you need to add more negative camber. If your tires are wearing evenly, you do not need anymore camber, no matter what number you are at. Tire wear is the ultimate measurement.
You shouldn't use a different car model as a reference point for suspension settings. Every car is different -- some drastically so. Some cars need a lot of negative camber, while others need very little. Caster, bump steer and toe will also factor into how much camber you should use. Also remember, camber primarily benefits cornering, but hurts breaking. Too much camber will wear out your tires faster, seriously degrade braking and lead to unpredictable handling.
The easiest way to tell if you need more camber is to look at your tire wear. If the outside shoulder is wearing faster than the inside, you need to add more negative camber. If your tires are wearing evenly, you do not need anymore camber, no matter what number you are at. Tire wear is the ultimate measurement.
On a Mini, there is a reasonable amount you can do with camber before it signifacantly effects tire wear.
can u get an image of what this pin is?
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