Hey all,

So, to preface, I've done a lot of searching and research on this, and it just led to more confusion than answers, so any help or direction on what/where to read would be appreciated.

I recently installed a set of KW V3 coil overs and adjustable end links. Gave me a good drop, and after tweaking the rebound/dampening, the ride is great for street (though it wouldn't hurt to be a bit more firm...). And, full disclaimer, this is the first car I've put coils on, and the first time I'm actually looking into stance.

Problem now is, being on stock 16s, and getting a little (okay, a LOT) overzealous on dropping the front, I had some rubbing on the inner sidewall and shredded two tires. I now appreciate run flats more than ever.

I'd like to keep a decent drop, but don't want to run into this problem again. I'm okay with some rubbing of the fender liner on a full turn on occasion, and am willing to trim it to help. Here's what I'm going to be doing for different setups:

Winter: stock 16s with Blizzaks. Will probably leave at a higher point
Spring/Summer: 18" Motegi MR7s +45ET (I think)
Track: undecided, probably some light 15s or 16s (feel free to chime in here)

What do I need to do to get me good handling, no rubbing, and adjustability between all three setups with these coils? I was looking at the Eibach and Vorshlag camber plates, but don't want to spend a TON on that one part. Also looking into some 12mm or 15mm spacers. Lastly, for the track, I do plan on putting in a rear sway bar, and better control arms. Will that factor into how the camber/alignment will turn out?

 

Install at least a 10mm spacer. (I prefer 12-15mm for a better stance) This will allow you to drop to pretty much any height you want without rubbing the inside.

If you are tracking the car, I suggest you get camber plates and adjustable rear control arms. You want more negative camber for the track, especially the fronts. Vorschlag camber plates are good stuff. Since you already have coils, you should play around with the car first before getting the rear sway bar. In my experience, a rear sway bar is not needed when you have a well balanced setup.

As for track wheels, go with light and wide 16's. 15s will not fit an R56S.

 

Thanks for the advice GEMSTER. My tax return will be here in a couple of days, and I have my eye on an FMIC, BOV upgrade kit, new brakes, and the adjustable rear control arms.

I have yet to read anything bad about the Vorshlag plates...but for the cost, are the Eibachs any good? Saving $100 would be nice...I'd go with Ireland Engineering, but those are crap, correct?

Any specific suggestions for track/auto-x rims and tires?

 

I cant really comment on the Eibachs since I havent seen anyone with them installed. But just by looking at some of the pics, the Eibachs look a bit toyish.
IE, however, is actually not bad, from what I heard. IE also specializes in BMW, so they should be quite good.
And yeah, I haven't heard a single bad comment about the Vorschlags. The build quality is top notch. The price might be a bit steep for camber plates, but trust me, they are worth it.
In the end, its your money. If money is really tight for you, then I suggest you get the IE plates. But if you can spend slightly more, I definitely recommend the Vorschlags.

As for track wheels, 16x8 (et 38) Enkei RPF1s with Dunlop ZIIs in 225/45/16 would be my choice. Though you probably need a 5-10mm spacer to clear the inside.
16x7 (et35) RPF1 with 205/50/16 ZIIs would work too.

 

Thanks again GEMSTER. Looking at more reviews, it seems like it a couple of isolated incidents on the IE plates, and at almost half the cost of the Vorshlags, I think I'll pick them up, unless a good deal pops up on the marketplace soon.

Running 18x7.5 et40 (45?) rims this summer, would a 10-12mm spacer be sufficient? I'm looking at a 15mm, but will that be overkill, even when running up to -3* of camber?

 

Being a track ***** I can speak to what you're experiencing. I have 17x7 wheels with +42mm offset and I need to run a 10mm spacer in the front to clear my big brakes and also my coilover springs. I have KW V2 coilovers and I believe V3 have linear rate springs so the spacers won't be necessary. If you don't need to use spacers there is no point in installing them. The more you can tuck inside the wheel well the better or else you'll get some rub. I do get a very minor rub with my setup but it's not terrible and depends on what track I'm at. If you want to see pictures of my setup click on the link in my signature.

You need to buy rear adjustable control arms right now. Your rear camber is WAY off if you're dropping considerably. Front camber plates can wait since the front negative camber isn't as much affected as the rear when you drop, but it's a good addition for track and Auto-X junkies. For someone just starting out at the track, you don't need them. You're going to be worrying about a lot of other things instead of what your front camber is set at! Vorshlag make the best plates by far. CNC machined works of art. The Eibach doesn't even come close. They are worth every penny. If the cost is unattractive then you should just wait. Don't even waste your money on anything else. This is one of those parts that you truly get what you pay for.

I am surprised you haven't bought a big sway bar yet. That's usually the first thing everyone does do their suspension. I wouldn't wait. The H-Sport competition rear sway bar is the way to go on this. Every MINI track rat I know including myself use this one and love it. In my opinion, you can worry about corner balancing at a later date. As long as your ride heights are consistent when the car is loaded that's an OK starting point. When you want to tweak the car to perfection and are much more experienced on track that's when you should corner balance.

A 17" wheel for the R56 at the track is a good compromise between light 16's and even heavier 18's. You can get 17" wheels that weight 14.6 lbs now! I would say go to a smaller wheel if you're going to Auto-X religiously because of the lower gearing effect they have. Unless you know you're going to be a diehard track nut I don't see the point in having three sets of wheels right now. Stick with winter wheels and a set of summer/track tires with something like a Dunlop Direzza Z1 star spec or a Hankook RS-3. Those are awesome track tires for beginners and intermediates alike. If you're just starting out with track driving with the R56 you're getting way ahead of yourself with what you need. Seat time is always the first priority.

I've seen some R56's with 16" wheels that are SLAMMED to the ground. Yea it looks bad to the bone, but street driveability is sacrificed. Besides your front bumper, you need to remember the exhaust downpipe flange is one of the lowest hanging parts on the R56. Slam something against that and it could be very bad news. That's the risk you take. Sure you could have a "street" height and then "track" settings, but once you corner balance every time you adjust something you need to hit the scales again.

Just take it slow. It's a slippery slope

 

Countryboyshane, thanks so much for the detailed feedback, really helps me gain a lot of insight.

With the (full) drop I did on my V3s, the inside sidewall rubbed against the coil over housing, causing both fronts to be destroyed, so I'm thinking that, going that low at least, I'll need the spacers. However, it sounds like 15mm will be overkill, so I'll look into the 10-12mm instead.

Adjustable control arms are on my list to get ASAP. The rear isn't dropped as low. Am I to understand I only really NEED the lower arms, and that the top aren't as necessary? The camber plates are more so I can deal with clearance issues with the dropping/spacing. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I'm looking at the 22mm RSB right now as well, and will be getting that on soon.

As far as tires, I'm running three sets for practicality and (hopefully) long term cost savings. I had a pretty well prepped Yaris before that I was planning on racing, so I want to get back to where I was when I start this summer. Am I getting a bit ahead of myself? Probably, but I'll have what I need when I get better. I don't like having to deal with mounting/balancing two or more times a year, and the 18x7.5 MR7s I have won't be good for track. I get your point of re-adjusting between all the switching, but, as you said, being a beginner I'm not going to get a corner balance done every time. That being said, the stock wheels will be put away for winter, MR7s will be DD/show rims, and the third set will be dedicated for track (it's SUPER competitive in Milwaukee, want as much of a chance as I can get).

I don't plan to keep it slammed all the time, especially for DD/street, but I want to have the kit I need to drop it for shows/meets/photo shoots, hence the "all-out" approach. I also have /just/ enough disposable income, and a great tax return, to be able to finance this venture (short of $480 camber plates, which you have me re-considering).

I'll do some more reading, but please, everyone throw in your two cents! I really appreciate the understanding and advice given by the above posters, and makes me feel really welcome to the community!

 

The lower arms are the only ones you really need.

Ah now I understand how the tires got trashed. You'll find that most will recommend you step right up to the 15mm H&R spacer that has a hub-centric nose. If you can pull it off it is the most fail safe spacer. If you can only get away with a 10 or 12mm, it's perfectly fine, but they won't have a hub-centric nose. In this case tightening your wheel lugs to proper spec is of utmost importance since the static friction is what really keeps the wheel stuck to the hub, not the hub-centric nose. If you let the wheel lugs get too loose you risk busting off a lug. My friend in the local MINI club has been driving his 2004 R53 JCW with wheel studs and 10mm spacers since 2007 with no problems. Check the torque before each session and you're fine.

Then there's another point. Wheel studs. Since you need a spacer, skip the long bolts and buy a wheel stud kit. They make mounting your wheels so much easier and I can't explain it well, but they loosen less than the stock bolts do.

Well I guess if you've got the money than it's OK to go gung-ho. You can't take it with you. I find that the cost of oil, gas, brake pads, brake fluid, track fees, and lodging will catch up to you. It's pretty easy to get ahead of yourself with this stuff. I sure could use a built motor, a better flowing cylinder head, and a custom turbo. However, it's not what I need at the track. Just remember that you are not racing... yet. Bring the car home like it came to the track

 

10-12mm should be ok for your 18s.

Shane: My 12mm spacers are hub centric fyi.

 

I'm not a track rat (my reactions are really, really slow), but I can tell you that when you adjust ride height you will also adjust toe front and rear. I would think that you can spend some time on an alignment rack and get some good guidelines (adjust front up two turns on springs, tie rod end shorter 1/2 turn, for example). Adjusting the camber in front will also adjust toe. Especially in the rear, do not underestimate the affect of toe change due to ride height.

It may be worth your while to get your own setup for caster/camber alignments. Toe inspections are easy with a string box, if you are diligent.

Have fun,
Mike