i have my car dropped on kw v3's and i replaced my front end links with alta's. my coilovers in the front are almost on the highest setting, and when i jack my car up my endlinks end up hitting the control arm. is this normal?

 

Hmm had you adjusted the pre-load and all that with the end-links to ensure they were the proper length when installed?

 

the end links are shorter than stock, and i just left them on the lowest setting

 

i thought front endlinks are the opposite of rears, when you lower the car rears get smaller fronts get bigger... at least that's what i THINK happens, that's the trend with BMWs and since the MINI lowers in the same fashion i'd assume it's the same for MINIs... i believe that's also why NM (while expensive) compensates for their lowering springs with their adjusted length endlinks front and rear.

 

I have one front adjustable powergrid endlink and one rear adjustable endlink (result of a car crash in my R53).

Technically, I can remove preload from the entire car just by adjusting one side of the car, am I correct?

 

im not sure, when i installed my coilovers i couldn't use the old endlinks cause they were too long, so i ordered the adjustable ones..

 

Stinkytofu, you need to adjust the endlinks to be longer in the front. If you adjusted them to be at the shortest length, you will have problems.

 

thanks for the info

 

so adjust to longer in the front and shorter in the rear? I'm currently in the market for endlinks. I'm preparing to drop on NM springs w/ koni yellows and rear sway bar.

Thanks for info as always
Jordan

 

What you'll want to do is for a lowered car, adjust the endlinks longer in the front. For the rear, you will want to keep them the same length as stock, or maybe a little shorter if the car is really low!

 

Not that I doubt you ALTA Chris, but can someone else please confirm this? I just installed my Alta adj. endlinks and made them shorter than stock. Do I really need to make them longer???

 

Get the TSW powergrid endlinks or the one from WMW

 

Chris is correct. The front are longer and the rear are shorter than stock. It depends on how low you dropped your car. What is your wheel gap clearance? Normally, the optimal position for the sway bars are horizontally flat or parallel to the ground. Look under your car while it got the weights on the wheels and determine how much shorter/longer they should be so that the bars sit parallel to the frame. The links will have a 90 degree angle to the bars at that point.

 

Thanks a lot for the info. I extended them last night after reading the directions but had to guestimate. I'm glad you told me how to properly look at them from underneath the car to make sure the sway bar and end link are at 90 degrees.

BTW, why do you suggest the TSW over the Alta? The Altas were about $110 shipped for me and the TSWs were $155 plus shipping. I just thought they performed similar in function since they are adjustable and both look stronger than stock.

 

Both WMW and TSW use ball-stud links. Why use ball-stud links? Heim joints and high misalignment spherical bearings were considered, but do not offer the compliance, the dust seal, and are limited in their range of angular articulation. The ball links also offer a very low friction in the joint and has up to 50 degrees of articulation. This eliminates binding and allows for smooth load transitions. And, to top it off, they're strong as hell

Mine Alta are making noise already and the nuts that hold the endlinks get loosen after harsh driving. I have get underneath and tighten them up. I'm not sure about others but I find this quite annoying !

 

I have had good luck with NM engineering end links. And they seem to hold up without loosening. They make end links for both the front and rears now.

 

I have changed my front end link 2 times already. The noise drives me crazy. Is there anything anything better out there? I have Alta's?

 

Try nm engineering front end links. They work pretty well.