Suspension Anyone got Bilstein Shocks on their R56 yet?
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 661
Likes: 24
From: Port Orchard, WA.
Now I am not sure which I have, but I was told they were the "Bilstein sport shock" . I bought them used and they were off an autoX car so I assumed they were B8s.
The Bilstein web page, as you said, lists the B8s for lowered cars, but it also says that they are "sport tuned" whereas that was not in the description for the B6. Wonder what that means?
However, they seem to be working well with the springs and I am liking them.
Sorry to here about issues with the FSDs. I have a set waiting to go in our base MINI.
The Bilstein web page, as you said, lists the B8s for lowered cars, but it also says that they are "sport tuned" whereas that was not in the description for the B6. Wonder what that means?
However, they seem to be working well with the springs and I am liking them. Sorry to here about issues with the FSDs. I have a set waiting to go in our base MINI.
Koni did not make a distinction/recognize the fact that MINI had something called Sport Suspension for the R-56. I never remember checking if they said they would work on a JCW which must have the stiffer springs.
Since I had the Brembo BBK on the car as well the dampening was/is working harder so I wonder if that had anything to do with the FSD's not working?
The B8's work great and I will get back to Bilstien to check if for the regular SS springs that the B6 is the way to go.
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
Took me forever to get them but I finally got B8's. I already had NM alpha springs. Stock I had sport suspension. 94K miles lowered and no leaks but the damping was definitely lighter than when new. Because I put my NM springs on basically when the car was new I knew what I was in for. Took my time and got them in. I am hearing a clunk in the front. I think I tightened everything. It is tough to torque the top nut. The top nut is just flush to the shaft. I don't think I can get it any tighter without some kind of special tool. I see most people use a socket with a vice grip. It's that tight right now so I think I am OK there. Anyone else have this problem? where else could the clunk come from? Did any one have to switch to adjustable end links to compensate for the 1" drop? Hope my links are not hitting the control arm.
Last edited by HZBJCW; Aug 18, 2017 at 07:50 PM.
My B8s went in and tightened without issues. The top nut, I tightened that with an Allen wrench through the top of an old school spark plug wrench/socket. As long as the shock shaft was properly seated in the top spring hat, and that nut is still snug, and the pinch bolt at the bottom is tight, your shock is likely not the problem.
In my experience the MINI end links are a PITA to get tight enough to not clunk. And then the ball joints on them loosen up and clunk. Even if they seem to be properly tightened put a wrench on them and give them a good twist. When I chased this problem on the rear of my car that nut turned less than an eighth of a turn and the clunk was gone.
If there is wear in the end link ball, then your only option is to replace them. With 90+k on the car and being lowered, I would get a set of the Way sealed end links (which I have)
In my experience the MINI end links are a PITA to get tight enough to not clunk. And then the ball joints on them loosen up and clunk. Even if they seem to be properly tightened put a wrench on them and give them a good twist. When I chased this problem on the rear of my car that nut turned less than an eighth of a turn and the clunk was gone.
If there is wear in the end link ball, then your only option is to replace them. With 90+k on the car and being lowered, I would get a set of the Way sealed end links (which I have)
Last edited by Eddie07S; Aug 19, 2017 at 05:05 AM. Reason: Edit
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
Thanks Eddie07S,
Great advice. I had a clunk in the rear (with the stock shocks) that I could not trace down. That's why I finally pulled the trigger on the Bilsteins. I went back and torqued everything with a torque wrench and that seems to have taken care of the big clunk I was experiencing yesterday. I will probably get some new endlinks. To keep the geometry the same they really should be adjustable or modify a set the same amount the car is lowered..
Great advice. I had a clunk in the rear (with the stock shocks) that I could not trace down. That's why I finally pulled the trigger on the Bilsteins. I went back and torqued everything with a torque wrench and that seems to have taken care of the big clunk I was experiencing yesterday. I will probably get some new endlinks. To keep the geometry the same they really should be adjustable or modify a set the same amount the car is lowered..
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 661
Likes: 24
From: Port Orchard, WA.
My B8s went in and tightened without issues. The top nut, I tightened that with an Allen wrench through the top of an old school spark plug wrench/socket. As long as the shock shaft was properly seated in the top spring hat, and that nut is still snug, and the pinch bolt at the bottom is tight, your shock is likely not the problem.
In my experience the MINI end links are a PITA to get tight enough to not clunk. And then the ball joints on them loosen up and clunk. Even if they seem to be properly tightened put a wrench on them and give them a good twist. When I chased this problem on the rear of my car that nut turned less than an eighth of a turn and the clunk was gone.
If there is wear in the end link ball, then your only option is to replace them. With 90+k on the car and being lowered, I would get a set of the Way sealed end links (which I have)
In my experience the MINI end links are a PITA to get tight enough to not clunk. And then the ball joints on them loosen up and clunk. Even if they seem to be properly tightened put a wrench on them and give them a good twist. When I chased this problem on the rear of my car that nut turned less than an eighth of a turn and the clunk was gone.
If there is wear in the end link ball, then your only option is to replace them. With 90+k on the car and being lowered, I would get a set of the Way sealed end links (which I have)
It definitely has settled into a lowered machine with the Swift SpecR springs and the B8,s but boy does it handle! Drove across the USA and back with the setup and zero complaints.
Never changed the end end links.
I've got a set of B6's that were revalved, just getting some miles on them. Some clunks here and there. I went back and forth with springs, ended up trimming 1/2 coil off the stock spring, my car seemed happier with that spring rate than the swifts. I've got 275 lb springs in the rear, coil over sleeves and custom upper spring mounts.
I bought them used, what is the proper torque spec for the upper strut mount? I just went to the manual and used that. I was able to torque them when the car was on the ground (the shaft twisted a bit as the spring loaded, but the shaft didn't spin).
I had a Koni come loose on the upper strut and it ended up taking out the strut and upper mount (torn mount, oil leak through the adjuster). This was on my old car after about 50k miles.
So far I'm pretty happy with the Bilsteins.
Have fun,
Mike
I bought them used, what is the proper torque spec for the upper strut mount? I just went to the manual and used that. I was able to torque them when the car was on the ground (the shaft twisted a bit as the spring loaded, but the shaft didn't spin).
I had a Koni come loose on the upper strut and it ended up taking out the strut and upper mount (torn mount, oil leak through the adjuster). This was on my old car after about 50k miles.
So far I'm pretty happy with the Bilsteins.
Have fun,
Mike
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 156
Likes: 5
From: SC
So I am thinking of getting the B14 kit, but ran across this kit.
It is my understanding that they use 7kg/mm springs F&R. However, has anyone used a regular (non-beehive) spring with the B14 kit to use a standard camber plate? If so, what rate and length?
Another question, are the dampers the same from the B14 kit and the GP2 kit? If so, then the valving seems pretty lenient/adaptable going from progressive to linear. Anyone care to elaborate?
It is my understanding that they use 7kg/mm springs F&R. However, has anyone used a regular (non-beehive) spring with the B14 kit to use a standard camber plate? If so, what rate and length?
Another question, are the dampers the same from the B14 kit and the GP2 kit? If so, then the valving seems pretty lenient/adaptable going from progressive to linear. Anyone care to elaborate?
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
Did you guys use the bump stops in the rear? I have the car apart (still chasing that rear clunk) the B8 rear is overly harsh in my opinion (actually, let me rephrase, B8 rear with a 22MM RSB is overly harsh), but I am using the trimed bumpstop that NM Alpha recommends. I do not use the bumpstop in the front (it wont fit those huge tubes anyway) I am thinking I will remove the rear bumpstop and see if that works. Plan B will be to trim off another inch.
I used the HD (B4) Bilstein struts with the stock S springs. The handling is just as good as the stock and the harshness when hitting expansion strips and such is greatly reduced. My wife likes the ride better and I can still handle the twisties like I used to.
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 45
Likes: 5
Looking to get some B4's for my R50. Hard to beat @$213 shipped. Can anyone recommend a good spring? Seems like the oem spring is good obviously but i'd like to drop the car slightly around 1" but don't want something too stiff and not matched. Anything out there? Don't think I want to cut my oem springs....
Looking to get some B4's for my R50. Hard to beat @$213 shipped. Can anyone recommend a good spring? Seems like the oem spring is good obviously but i'd like to drop the car slightly around 1" but don't want something too stiff and not matched. Anything out there? Don't think I want to cut my oem springs....
Last edited by Eddie07S; May 30, 2018 at 06:35 AM. Reason: typo
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Bilstein Review
Guys, I just put Bilstein shocks on my R53 2006 MCS as replacements. I purchased a set of four from ECS Tuning for $264. They are said to restore the original performance and they do - both good and bad characteristics. They are good for handling and cruising. They transmit bumps directly with a bang - a bit harsh. All in all great for $264 dollars.
Neutral
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: College Park, MD
I really wanted B14's but ended up ordering BC Racing from OutMotoring as I couldn't wait that long
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 275
Likes: 41
From: Richmond B.C.
Where is the best place to buy the B8's rite now, found the B6's for a great deal at Turner for $587.00 for the whole set, but both my car, and my sons car are sitting on H&R's, mine on a set of street springs, his on a set of race springs. Would prefer to get the B8's.
Wooo Hoooo! Nice holiday present. 
Are you replacing stock MINI shocks? Also, if you don’t have them already, maybe include a set of camber plates too? I highly recommend the IE fixed for a street car.
At any rate, let us know how it goes with them.
Are you replacing stock MINI shocks? Also, if you don’t have them already, maybe include a set of camber plates too? I highly recommend the IE fixed for a street car.
At any rate, let us know how it goes with them.
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 275
Likes: 41
From: Richmond B.C.
Yes, fronts and rears, adjustable Ireland camber plates, H&R springs, and 22mm rear sway bar installed, going to install 25mm front bar on my sons car as well already have it just haven't put it in yet, It looks like a pretty big job, I think I have to drop the front suspension to get the front sway bar in. Along with the already installed JCW turbo, CNT100 cell downpipe. ALTA 3" exhaust, ALTA intercooler, ALTA charge pipes, ALTA cold air intake, RPM Power tune, lightened flywheel, street clutch, Howerton Meth injection, OZ wheels, conti extreme contacts it should be ready for the track if the engine doesn't blow up, then comes the major engine build.
You are really going to like the 25mm front swaybar. It will be well worth the effort to do the installation and will be a nice compliment to that 22mm RSB. Yes, the subframe will need to be lowered and I think there are some other steps like disconnecting the steering rack that wil need to be done. You should be able to find some good threads about doing this that will help. Again a suggestion, if it hasn’t already been done - this is the time to put in some Power Flex poly bushings in the front lower control arms. It is easiest to do when the frame has been lowered.
This is going to make for one really nice track car! It will be interesting to hear your throughts once all of this is done. However, with the power the car will have and with these suspension I think that you may be looking to upgrade the tires as the car will likely be beyond the Contis it now has.
Looking forward to hearing how it goes...
This is going to make for one really nice track car! It will be interesting to hear your throughts once all of this is done. However, with the power the car will have and with these suspension I think that you may be looking to upgrade the tires as the car will likely be beyond the Contis it now has.
Looking forward to hearing how it goes...
On my 08 when I dropped the front subframe I removed the rack from the subframe rather than disconnecting the rack from the steering column. I got a bit nervous when reading about resetting the sensor on the steering wheel if there was an issue. It worked out fine, 3 bolts holding the rack in place, IIRC. I second the powerflex LCA bushings, nice improvement in feel with no additional NVH.
Have fun,
Mike
Have fun,
Mike
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