...I also noticed, while changing out my bushings if a different orientation might produce better or worse results. The factory spec indicate that this bushing be installed with repect to the trailing arm one way and one way only. But it is possible to alter this relationship...to what end I've no idea. I'm sure we might get more rear steer or more toe-in compliance on the outside wheel depending upon which direction the bushing is altered.

Volkswagon was known for their bushing technolgy in the late 80s and early 90s. They developed thier rear trailing arm bushing to toe-in on the outside rear wheel under load to aid stability. If we assume the same is true with the Mini, we can make a couple of assumptions...that this is a great thing on unfamiliar public roads, and that a rod end may eliminate this safety envelop, but allow an experienced driver to take greater advantage of the car.

 

Great work!!
Looks like I'll have another "project" coming up !
Thanks for sharing.

Jim

 

thanks for the compliments.

i've been asked to give some info on how much of this is just assembly and how much changing metal is required.

the ONLY "machining" required is to reduce the o.d. of the aluminum bushings and the shim washers to get them inside the rod ends. (and, of course, emptying the beer cans and cutting the beer can shims)

i mounted the spacers and then the washers on a dremel tool 1/2" o.d. expanding rubber mandrel (used for those little sanding drums), then chucked that mandrel in a small bench drill press i had. i reduced the o.d. carefully using a strip of abrasive cloth, checking frequently with a micrometer. i got the o.d.s to .001 to .0005 under the rod end i.d.

despite another thread elsewhere on NAM whining about how bush league central turnbuckle nuts are (like on the h-sports), i really wish i had them on these arms. the only way i could tighten the inboard nuts was to modify a 7W vicegrips to exactly clamp on the nut flats. no question, it is a MAJOR PITA to tighten these inboard nuts.

everything else is just assembly as i've outlined above.

 

looks like I got myself a project ahead of me!

 

I just got a set of rods from Out Pace, I went with the 1" hex alum. and steel 3/4" rod ends. I think that instead of the "beer can" shim I am going to get some 4130 round stock 3/4" dia. and just drill a 12mm hole down the center and then shim the rod end to the center with some 1" alum. round stock. Thanks "fly-boy" for the great idea, these control rods should be stronger,longer lasting and cheaper than most anything out there.

 

well we all know what "assumption" is......

excellent write up and mod. Look forward to hearing about it a few thousand miles later.

 

out pace asked me how these are working out. here's my reply:

THEY ARE WORKING GREAT!!!!! they continue to be MUCH MORE COMFORTABLE than both the stock rubber bushed arms and the poly bushed H Sports.

I have slid the hell out of the car. NO QUESTION, there is more control/less yaw-axis winding up feeling with these. the current setup i have makes the car slide almost neutral.

there is no discernable wear yet. the rubber covers are intact and seem to be keeping road grit out.

for sure, the original set of 17" arms i bought are the best length. the 18" upper arms won't let me go any more negative with the camber.

 

Just an FYI. Lots of manufacturers do that. I think that all started back in the 80s. I know Mazda did that with the RX7s and other cars. They design in a certain amount of deflection into certain bushings (usually bushings that affect rear trailing arm, lower front control arm and rear toe) so that under braking or acceleration different things will happen to the bushing to affect alignment characteristics (such as toe settings front/rear) that will change/improve the suspension geometry under those conditions.

 

I'm still loving mine as well the car is solid and reasonably quiet. I lube the rod ends when I change oil and at this point (about 8000 miles) there does not seem to be any abnormal wear.

 

flyboy, just noticed this thread, and had to say

So, with this much time having gone by, and I'm guessing quite a few miles, have you had to change-out the rod ends yet?

Was thinking that if one went with 18" top and bottom, there would be an increase in the track or rear stance, and not limit negative camber ability, assuming 18 is not too long for the tire width / wheel offset (hitting the inside of the fender).

Hope all is going well with this set-up! Also, how has greasing been working-out? I found the Zerks on the H-Sport control arms to be useless. But then I had those like 5 years ago... I have the Alta's now that need new Heims, thus my finding of this thread.