Does anyone have an pictures of NM springs with 17inch rims?

 

Not NM springs. I did a lot of research before making my decision on springs and looking at every company that I know of that makes spring kits for R56's I found that the H&R Sport Springs were the best choice. It lowers the car anywhere from 1.4" to 1.7" (mine was 1.5" after I measured it). Plus, they are only $200 from tirerack.com Can't beat that. Heres a picture of my setup with 17" Team Dynamics Motorsport Race 1.2's (excuse the engine compartment my M7 Super AGS intake was mid-installation):

 

Have you had any problems with them? I heard a few bad remarks here or there.

 

I would say the only thing I have an issue with would be possible uneven tire wear but since they have been installed ive made a thing to check the tread and I haven't seen any uneven wear. So I really have no cons to give you. Every turn is an adventure and you would not be dissapointed.

 

is there any way i can get springs to get my ride like a 2 to 3 inch drop?

 

3"? you could try removing the springs completely.

 

you could potentially get around 2" with coils but with just springs? no shot.

 

Ok, so after reading thread after thread after thread, I am still uncertain if I should go the spring route. If I would, I want the H&Rs, but am concerned about shock issues on my stock sport suspension. Has anyone had them for a significant amount of time and can comfirm that there will be no issues or visa versa?

 

yes can someone second that a set of springs will not completely grenade my my stock shocks?

 

if they have much of a drop the shocks will die sooner than later.

 

just jumping in to include everyone in my excitement
just ordered Koni Yellows all around and NM Engineering springs from Way

also, I have XXR 521 rims w/ 225/45/17 BFG G-force kdw tires

going to install at Mini Corsa and talk with him about doing the alignment around 500 miles later rather than same day as i have read

 

Will TSW springs do considerably less damage then, considering it is less of a drop?

 

I just put Koni Yellows, NM springs and Vorshlag C-plates on my 09 JCW Clubby, has anyone found the sweet spot for camber/toe adjustments?? I'm currently running 2.0 neg camber in the rear, 1.3 deg neg camber in the front and front toe only at .1 deg.
Anyone have suggestions for aggressive street performance??

 

I have run Front camber anywhere from 0 to -2.2 and rear camber from -1.2 to -1.8.

Depends on which issues you have with the car. If you want to make the car better in initial turn-in, then I would suggest -2.0 or -2.2 in front camber. With higher negative camber in the front, you want to remove some negative camber fr the back, perhaps -1.3 to -1.6. The front rear differential in camber should be about 0.5 to 0.8 approx. This assume you do not have too large of a rsb (such as 22 mm) adjusted to full hard, because the back will whip over. I would suggest a smaller rsb such as 19 or 20 mm with medium settings to start. This should be able to continue the oversteer in a more controlled manner, once the front camber starts the initial turn in.

Of course, toe should be zero at each corner if possible.

Start at these "suggested" starting points, then you can describe how the car feels. Then we can go from there.

 

Slinger

Currently running a Tarret 23.5mm rsb adjusted to the lightest setting.
Agree, need front/rear diff to be at least .5 to .8
I think I'll start the front at 2.0 and the rears at 1.5 and see how it feels. Should I dial in a little more rsb at the same time??

 

That is a pretty aggressive rsb. I would start at full soft. I have a feeling that the rsb adjustment range may not be optimal for your setup but only you can tell when you drive the car.

Try -2.1 in the front and -1.4 in the rear. I am running that right now and it feels good with my setup. Start from there.

Also, it is time to get to know your alignment shop pretty well. I know mine so well, I know every employee and the owners kids as well.

 

Slinger

Actually since the Tarett bar is hollow, it will torque about the same as a 19-20mm solid bar. It is built "Nascar" style with a straight bar with splined ends. It has a very long adjustment ramp to give a wide range of adjustment. I swapped from a NM bar and was able to lighten up the settings with the Tarett bar since it has a wider range of adj.

http://www.tarett.com/items/mini-coo...sba-detail.htm

You can see the ramp adjustment is much longer than most.
I actually get my alignments done at the MINI dealer, get a great $$ deal and they will set it up any way I want, I just give them the numbers. They also have the rear Toe tool so I can get that set also.

 

For you all that have dropped there cars, did any of you have to roll the fenders?

Sorry if it's a stupid question but haven't been in the car scene in a long time.
I had to when I dropped my C36 a long time ago.

Thanks

 

I only dropped my car 1.2" so it's not all the way down, but I don't believe that you need to roll the fenders even if you go lower...but someone else here with a lower car may be able to tell you for sure - good luck

 

Thanks Saint!!!

Im going to get a new set of wheels and want to push them as far out as possible to get that wide mean look.

 

I did the 1.5 inch drop with just the springs and still had plenty of room with the 205/45/17 tires on Enkei wheels with stock offset. I still had more gap between the fenders and tires than I wanted. This past weekend I put on a set of 205/50/17 tires and it really filled up the wheel wells. The outside edge does not rub but the inside edge rubs just a little in the front on a full lock turn. Not enough for me to worry about.
By the way, if anyone is running Palo Uber lug bolts and breaks or misplaces the special 8 point Torx style tool required to take them off then just use the end of a 3/8" drive extension. It fits perfect and is stronger than the original tool.

 

Anyone want to sell me there lowering springs h&r preferred !
Thanks

 

Has anyone had a lot of groundclearence problems with the h&r, because right now I'm between nm and h&r but I'm leaning toward the nm because I'm worried I'm going to have zero ground clearance because my cars a daily driver, even though I like the look of the h&r better

 

Go with the NM, you loose too much shock travel with the H&R's.

 

so H&R are the way to go?