I realize the R56 looks a bit like an SUV. Mine (when it arrives) will have the sport suspension. My question: Is there an actual performance advantage to lowering springs, or is it merely cosmetic?

 

I think it depends on your driving style.

If you don't drive fast usually, then the lower springs is certainly good

enough for you.

 

Yes there is if you don't go to far and throw the suspension geometry off. Most recommend an inch or less. This will lower the center of gravity a bit, and when lowering, the springs are stiffer. That said a slammed car with very little travel is not a great driving car.. Just my 2 cents.

 

Many have commented here, and it's been my experience, that the 1.25" drop with Mach V springs on R56:
greatly reduces or eliminates torque steer
makes corners even more fun
slightly rougher ride (some argue this)
looks much better (no argues with this!)

btw: my R56 came with sport suspension and LSD

Here's a photo of two 07 sparkling silver. Mine, the front car, is lowered.

 

I dropped the Mini with Mach V springs mainly to get rid of the SUV look. The handling beneifit was an added bonus. I put the springs on when the Mini had a mere 100 miles on it so I can't comment on the ride difference.

 

I feel there is definitely a performance advantage, I would also recommend replacing the rear sway bar with a 19mm, this will make a big difference.

Here is a review on Eibach springs that I posted elsewhere:
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Got them installed on Saturday and took her up to the mountains on Sunday to give it a thorough testing.

This is what was installed:

Eibach pro springs
Eibach adjustable rear control arms
Adjustable front camber plates
Alta 19mm bar (set on medium)

Installed by Danny at Mini Corsa www.minicorsa.com (Great job & fast!!)

My initial impression was the car felt about as smooth as stock, almost more supple over the small road imperfections. Medium bumps not bad, then a big one, oops!! ok now I feel the difference LOL. but still not punishing. I would say about 25% stiffer then stock.
I decided to take the canyon route over to Hollywood from Van Nuys, to give the suspension the true test. I took the first left handed sweeper and was amazed at how the car handled , it felt like someone was pushing down on the rear end, it stuck like glue!! I'm attributing most of this to the larger rear sway bar and control arms, but I'm sure the stiffer springs help too I couldn't get enough of the twisties, so today I took her up to Angeles Crest Hwy, a nice 25 mile road up the backside to Mt. Wilson. It was awesome once I learned the limitations to the car, which probably hadn't been reached, but was enough for me.

Other things that improved were less squat when accelerating WOT, and I was amazed that torque steer was also reduced, I would say almost 50%.

All in all I drove about 150 miles today in almost every road condition and on several different freeways. I'm very happy with the way the car is handling. There were some freeways that have the chopped block type sections, it was a little bumpy and a slight bounce on those, but like I said previously, maybe only about 25% more. On some of the bigger hits I think it could use a little more rebound damping, I can live with it for now, but I will most likely replace the stock struts with some Koni Yellow adjustables or Eibachs if they come out with one first. I'm running the stock shocks, I didn't get the sport shock upgrade when I ordered the car.
My tires are Kumho 215/45/17's set at 38psi.

Best of all, the car doesn't have that ugly wheel gap anymore, I think it dropped it by about 1.2 inches.
Attached Thumbnails

 

Agreed: The use of a proper lowering spring is both cosmetic and a performance enhancement to the car. You lose the MINI-SUV look and gain better turn-in, steering response, and better ride quality (I don't know about all brands, but the H&R that I used in Howard were far more compliant on the freeway than the OEM.) Plus they make a great compliment to upgraded wheels and tires, or wheel spacers.

My opinion has always been, good tires, good springs, proper alignment , larger rear bar and endlinks and the MINI is a handling machine. Minimal cost = huge benefit.

If I can answer any other questions PLEASE let me know!

Good luck on the decision!

 

Thanks for the photo, I have been looking for a lowered car with flame spokes.

 

Closer look at the flame spokes/Mach V/stock run flats:

http://johncameron.ca/mini/large-37.html

http://johncameron.ca/mini/large-38.html

 

You get both performance and looks.....win win situation.

 

Adam, I am sorry I could not attend your Spring Kick Off event for your new facility yesterday, I came down with strep throat. I really wanted to attend for many reasons, win door prize, see new product's, see Jarid's GP on the dyno (Jarid's my Mototring Advisor) and check out you new facility.
I also planned to pick up the exhaust gaskets from Rasmussen to have my Alta header installed. Since I couldn't make the trip they are being mailed to me.
Anyway, regarding lowering springs:
On Craigslist is someone selling ($150) new Eibach#5702.140 that would work on my Astro Black 2006 MCS.
I really just want to lower the car, the factory setup is ok, I just want it lower. Would these be ok with the factory shocks, or is H&R a better choice or possibly Alta's springs. Or is there another way to lower the car?
I do not do any track days as of yet, but I have had on PIR for the "Giant Slalom" during Labor day's All Britsh Field Meet.
Thanks for your insight and I am sure the Kick off went well without me (haha)!
Gary Ellers


Agreed: The use of a proper lowering spring is both cosmetic and a performance enhancement to the car. You lose the MINI-SUV look and gain better turn-in, steering response, and better ride quality (I don't know about all brands, but the H&R that I used in Howard were far more compliant on the freeway than the OEM.) Plus they make a great compliment to upgraded wheels and tires, or wheel spacers.

My opinion has always been, good tires, good springs, proper alignment , larger rear bar and endlinks and the MINI is a handling machine. Minimal cost = huge benefit.

If I can answer any other questions PLEASE let me know!

Good luck on the decision![/quote]

 

i thought it was pretty well known that changing the springs without the shocks is a no no....is it different in the mini?

 

im just going to run them till they fail... then hopefully by then i will have enough saved up for a coilover kit!

 

[/QUOTE]
Gary thanks for the post and the business! Again, sorry you fell ill! Chat soon!

 

Depends on the brand of springs (to some extent) as well as the car in question. The MINI uses a very nice OEM strut assembly and when mated to a spring that is calibrated to work with that valving (we chose H&R there are others) they work just fine and the lifetime of the strut is not decreased.

Thanks for the post!

 

This is exactly the question in my mind and what's keeping me away from doing it ... yet. All my friends told me how if i just change the spring and not the shocks, the suspension will be done in like 3-4 years. I don't plan on tracking the car a lot and I just want to get rid of the suv look

 

Yes, it's different. Most normal cars have very soft shocks, so if you lower them, the softly-damped shock will be overwhelmed by the stiffer spring. MINI stock shocks (even non-Sport) are relatively stiff, and mild lowering springs seem to work pretty well even with the stock dampening.

--Dan
Mach V

 

the faster my shocks wear out, the faster my excuse for a coil over kit comes along.

That said, im loving the Mach V springs even paired with my non sport shocks!!

 

i am not so sure, a bmw m3 comes with "stiff" shocks and if you were just to use lowering springs with the OEM struts probaby everyone would tell you it's a no no. Regardless it's a cheap way out to "look good"

 

You are right, lowering springs are a fad, don't waste your money.

They're cosmetic devices that screw up your suspension geometry and never match your factory strut valving. They're increased progressive rates are intended to keep you from slamming off the bump stops with shortened travel, nothing more. The excess rebound travel (from the lowered piston position in the strut) and raised spring rate increase the strut rebound speed off of bumps, decreasing stability in anything but smooth corners. Nothing short of a straight rate spring and/or appropriately re-valved strut will match the stock performance.

Leave the lowering springs to the "tuners". Don't get shorter springs without matching shorter shocks and the right suspension links to correct the altered geometry.

 

Lowering springs are certainly not a "fad" I have a R50 and I lowered it for performance reasons, because the camber and the geometry of the suspension would be better for performance. It's all about finding the right spring for what you want to do.

Us R50 boys and girls are lucky enough to have a few options such as H-Sport, TSW, and M7 springs which all play well with OEM hardware (some better than other, buyer beware) TSW and H-sport springs work well with OEM shocks, don't need rear control arms, and could certainly benefit from a good alignment. Other than that, those two springs for sure work great with OEM hardware as a simple "add-on" M7 springs drop the car further, yet may not need the additional hardware. Again, buyer beware.

WHat options do they have for your car besides the H&R springs?

 

I don't know or care who makes the springs, the principle is the same.

Progressive rate with a 10+% increase over stock and .5 - 1.5" drop is the standard recipe, and will compromise your cars performance for all the reasons stated above. Any advantage gained by dropping the CG a tad is outweighed by the lousy ride and mismatched shock valving. The progressive rate springs are a compromise to give some semblance of ride quality with the shorter bump travel. If you shorten the travel without increasing the spring rate you're going to spend more time on your bump stops. You want performance? Get a straight rate spring and proper matched strut (or go coilover), anything less is counterproductive. You want camber? Get some adjustable camber plates and have a ball.

My lesson was learned the hard way. On a previous car I tested some springs that looked good on the spec sheet with quality single adjustable shocks I already had on the car. I needed to add adjustable links to bring the rear camber & toe back in spec, and lived with the camber increase in front. On the road the thing bottomed over highway expansion joints and rebounded unevenly. It basically rode crappy and never felt balanced. I picked up a very slight, if at all, advantage on lap times at the track. I didn't get a clock on every lap but my times were within my normal range. In hard cornering the outside springs stiffened up O.K. as it squatted, but the inside lifted more than before. Pretty much a wash with the old springs on the track. That's why I say all in all springs alone a waste of time and money.

 

I am running H&R as well and now can take 90 degree turns at 50 MPH!!!

 

I run the Texas Speedwerks spring, which is linear rate. It does lower the car. It rides incredibly well, better than OEM by far. It does not need new hardware, even shocks because of the rates being mildly changed to match an over-damped car. All in all, I love my TSW springs. I would start to protest the fact that they haven't made some for your ride yet, and see whether or not they will be making a set of springs for it soon.

 

Glad you like them! I'm a bit surprised that a harsh, travel challenged suspension can be improved by shortening the springs, but at least they're straight rate. I don't mean to sound so negative about these things but experience has taught me otherwise.

When I first read the attached article I thought it was harsh and unforgiving. I think about it whenever I get the urge to "improve" anything:

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do...bsubtypeId=216