Installing upper and lower Alta Control arms on my Mini, get done with the passenger side...I found it easier (without a lift) to drop the subframe, and to do so, removed the control arms from the trailing arm first...when I went around to do it on the Driver side, there was this added sensor on the upper control arm. What ? What does it do? How does it work? will the car/should the car work without it? AND most importantly, how and has anyone attached it to an Alta control arm.

My worry is, that somehow someway...that sensor (if removed) will tell the car not to move! Anyways, Install is at a halt, please respond with any info!

 

Hey ...
It is the headlight level sensor ...

I made a small bracket to still be able to have the system work.

I'll dig up a photo or when you returm my loaner tools I'll show you.

(how is everything going ???)

 

It's one of two headlight auto-level potentiometers. The other one is on the left front control arm. If you remove one, the headlights will default into a full-down position, and you will lose auto leveling. This means you'll have to realign your headlights and their position will be fixed. IMO, this is better than their BMW-ness always fidgeting around.

 

Its going good, started the Dremel work last night, finishing up with that today, but is it okay to run without that level sensor? should i take it off/leave it hanging? trying to get these control arms on then get the subframe back in place so i can move on...

 

I found it ...
Now this is nothing high tech ...
I made the bracket the same length from the centerline if the OEM arm to the miunting hole.
The clamp can be rotated to adjust
(it can be done at night with lights on, then once set it is good to go)

I now have a line painted on it and can adjust the control arm and not loose my headlught adj ...

 

TRUE! It is the headlamp leveling sensor. (We mention this on our compatibility tab of our website for this product.) I have seen many clients use the clamp type method shown above with GREAT success. Or you can also remove the OEM bracket from the OEM upper arm. (Simply unbolts) then mod it slightly with a dremel to allow TWO clamps to go through it, then mount it to the ALTA control arm. You may find that easier and more professional looking (Please take no offense COR_BLMY!-)

Let me know if I can ever help further!

 

I forgot you had that on your car. Both methods work. Alta's recommendation does look the cleanest but sometimes you have to improvise...

 

none taken ... good idea

I am adjusting about every week (this is easier) and this was done about 3 years ago before info was out there.

I have OEM arms to use as a template and may make a kit ...
When my other projects are done ...

 

Whoo Hoo, this thread got me out of Neutral!

Alta, are there any templates available for the drilling?
Also, if the headlight sensor is off, what are the methods to recorrect it?

 

Subframe is back on, I think I am just going to tape it on as a temp solution until i can get some bracket ideas, should work...atleast until after i get an alignment.

Once the suspension is done and on, and I can roll around the block, Im going after the supercharger and sparkplugs...then I should be rolling do your door Blmy.Make sure i did everything right. if i can make it, that means yes

 

Dude...haven't you learned anything at my house?!?!? Zip ties beeeeetoch!

 

ZIP ties or 200 MPH tape ...

That is a hard decision

 

haha just something to get me around town and to the local alignment...haha

Problem: Rear Sway is too close/hitting the trailing arm....

Question: Without wheels, or weight in the car (obviously since its on jacks stands) where should i set the sway/endlinks? parallel to the floor? angled down, up? whats optimum...

Problem: I have NO idea, what the settings are on my coilovers...I put them on stock...

 

I taped that sensor at its neutral position. My headlights still auto level a bit.

 

in theroy the sway bar (anti roll bar) should be level parallel to the ground .with the car on the ground (no jacks)
seriously close is good enough

 

With my IE links I did what Alta suggested and modified the original bracket to fit the link. It worked fine. Now with my SRC links, I just left the sensor dangling--still works just fine. I can't tell any difference and I have Xenons with auto leveling. So, either way works for me.

 

Zipties do the job right! Ran without the sensor and there is a huge difference with the auto level headlights...didnt even know the mini had that! now im trying to dertermine ride height before i start changing camber...just talked with Pete at BC about my min and max settings...

Anyone pull off a stock strut and realize that its flat on the side that faced the wheel? Stock? or am I doing some serious damage with my rims/tires?
17x7 and 215/45/17...seems there shouldnt be an issue, but maybe it was a few slams of the wheel on the strut for some reason

 

there IS a flat side on the OEM strut

 

phew...thats a relief to know...
whats the tool called that measures camber/toe?

 

A camber/toe gauge....dork. . I swear...do I need to come out there and smack you around a little? . I set all my enlinks and control arms to the OEM lengths for an initial starting point. Then you can set it to your liking. As far as setting the stance of the coilovers...put them to where you think it looks good then go around with a flashlight and check to make sure your not rubbing/chaffing on anything. You can call me for the next few hours. After that I will be CRUNKED and I won't be responsible for what comes out of my mouth...

 

I do need to be smacked around a bit...95% of my questions are complete NOOB!

I dont know, was hoping there was some fixed leveler or something that you might just place up to the wheel and it read your camber and toe...if they dont have one, well, i said it first, my idea!

I ran about 5mm of preload on all 4, 3clicks from full soft on the front, 6clicks in the rear...it handled good...Just taking it about a mile up and down the freeway and hitting some twisties back home, the on/off ramps are a good gauge...

Then I lowered the rear about 1/2 inch and set a neg camber in the rear...
The rear took out from under me on the same jug handle onto the 101 at about 55 , so I gased it! But it was beautiful ride, 90 felt like 55 on the freeway easily...now Im tweaking at the front to see what works and what doesnt, but I would love that 'tool' so I could be acurate and know for sure what deg. I have set things on.

 

Sounds like your making good headway ...

I did find that softening up the front (for auto-x ... my start up set up is now 15 on the front and 20 rear < 1 being soft and 30 being stiff>) really helps overcome understeer.

for DIY alignment you can use string to check toe and I have made cardboard templates (also avaliable from racer supply places) to check camber.

I made mine after a pro alignment

Check out this site as well
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com

then look at "Tools & Pit equipment"
then "alignment"

You are NOT going to make your first million on your "tool" idea

 

I know this is a old post but do you have a pic of this?

 

What do you need to do? Do you adjustable rear arms and need to mount the headlight leveling sensor? I think I have pictures of what I did in my build thread - maybe 5 pages before the current page - if that is what you need. Zip ties work well - you can get metal zip ties at most auto parts places. I used plastic ones but need to get some metal ones to make sure they're more permanent.

EDIT: Found it - post #351.

 

Yes I just wanted to see the picture I'm planning on installing the
Alta . I wanted to see what you did with the headlight sensor. Thank you for the pic