Can anyone here explain to me why I needed a 16" breaker bar to remove my drain plug. I would think the dealer over torqued this a bit

 

Because you didn't have the impact gun the dealer used to tighten it?
:impatient

Funny, I had a slight leak after my last dealer change because the plug was little more then hand tight. What's so tough about 'snug'??

 

I think the integral rubber component of the plug is part of it.
It seems to grab more than the tightening torque would account for.

 

Should these be replaced from time to time? I know on my VW the metal gasket needs to be replaced after each oil change.

 

It would seem so. I torque it properly, but then at oil change time it always seems really tough to break the seal.

 

Many folks say they re-use them. Of course it would be wise to clean it off with a rag and visually inspect the rubber component to see if it still looks OK. They are so cheap, I always just put on a new one.

 

After 50k miles, I've never replaced the drain plug. Just dont torque the crap out of it.

 

At my last oil change I found that Son of Kong had tightened mine at the dealer. Had to use a pipe over the wrench to get enough leverage to budge it. The rubber gasket on the plug has been distorted by the over torquing. It wasnt leaking, but I have a spare on the shelf just in case it starts to come apart.

 

Switch to a magnetic one. 14 x 1.50 thread. Comes with a nylon replaceable gasket that you can usually reuse 3 to 5 times. Picked it up at Pep boys for $4.95. Then you can torque to 20 lb ft, and get it off with a regular 3/8 drive without problem. Been using them in other cars for years.

 

Thanks for the info on the tread size. I have been searching for a viable alternative just in case. Thanks again.

 

Unless there is something going on here, like the rubber gasket bonding to the oil pan, I don't understand how the drain plug could be installed so tight as to need the kind of force you guys describe without stripping the threads in the oil pan.. the pan is aluminum.

This brings up another question. The 'free' oil changes. And I guess I could get out my warranty book and start reading, but is it a requirement that you take your MINI back to the dealer for this service if you are not having any other issues.

I'd like to take it back and have all the codes read, etc. But I really don't want their oil change.

Guess I need to pose this question to my MA.

YD

 

Fumoto

I've seen three cars locally with drain plugs that have only been touched by the dealer but no shade tree mechanic could subsequently remove. I too was doing chin-ups on

My recommendation is to have a Fumoto ready to put in yourself the first time you DIY. http://www.fumotovalve.com/

I've never felt the need for this b4 ... but after my first DIY oil on this car I have one sitting next to the filter and oil waiting for the motivation.....

 

I do my own oil changes, never had any problem what-so-ever. The filter is also very easy if you do it right. I'll just keep doing the factory plug thing. I like having the largest hole in the oil pan that lets all the gunk flow out as fast as possible, hopefully bringing any solids with it.

thanks,

YD

 

I just changed the original factory fill oil yesterday (9400 miles) and the plug was really easy to remove. Now I'm worried I might get either the Son of Kong (as someone mentioned) or Thor himself tightening my plug back up on my 10K oil change....Ugh!

 

Ditto to the Captain! He was the one that tried to get my oil plug out!! Finally took it to a friend who is a professional mechanic and he had to use an impact hammer to get it out. Those MINI technicians really put it in there good.

Bought the Fumoto Valve for both MINIs and no more problems with getting the oil plug out. It is worth every penny.

 

Bitter!!!
After 1.5 hours of attempting to change the oil and filter on our 06 MCS, I have nothing but a stripped drain plug to show for it.

Goodyear shop tech Kong fused it on there and I still can't get it off, but I did round it off more so now it has more of an elliptical head . Breaker bar extension, vise grips = zippy.

When I first started trying my 13mm socket, I noticed the shop rounded the head. Great. But I still figured I'd persevere and win. I didn't. I just got my *** handed to me by a drain plug. I'll be calling the shop to inform them of their (and my) mistake.

Greg

 

You could always try the Sears Bolt-out tools.
I have used them on a number of bolts and nuts that were rounded and they work well. One tip on using them is to have an impact gun to get a good grip and to get the plug loose.
If you don't have an impact gun you can get an inexpensive electric one from Harbor Freight.

 

Mine took a tq wrench and that still dident doit.
I whacked with a hammer to break it loose. i wound up burning mine then taking it out with a pair of vice grips cause it rounded the bolt off then putting a breaker bar on the vicegrips to get it out it took quite a bit of effort even then. I have the ruined plug as a monument to what kind of crap went on to get it out.

 

[quote=Yo'sDad;1454808]I do my own oil changes, never had any problem what-so-ever. The filter is also very easy if you do it right. I'll just keep doing the factory plug thing. I like having the largest hole in the oil pan that lets all the gunk flow out as fast as possible, hopefully bringing any solids with it.

thanks,

Any tips on how to remov the oil filter? I ended up using pliers to tear the thing apart before it came off the insert thingy. There's got to be an easier way.

 

Question about removing the filter element from the housing cap.

I have only used MINI OEM replacement filters, and I change my oil and filter every 5K miles, so I may be different from you, but my filter just pulls out of the cap with my fingers. Nothing more is needed. I order my filters direct from 'Classic MINI in Ohio', very affordable and very nice people to buy from.

What filter brand and change interval are you doing?

YD

 

since the dealer says the oil change is due every 15k i drop the oil ever 4-5k and change the filter on the 2nd to 3rd oil drop. i also rub a lil oil on the rubber o-ring for the oil filter housing and the drain plug. never had a problem taken either off. i have ruined the head of the boat when trying to take it off the first time after the freebies were up at the dealer.

 

It's done. Had some help getting the old one out, but the old mangled drain plug is off and new drain plug, oil, and filter are back in place for the next 5,000 miles.

I used a torque wrench to put the plug back without KING KONG torqueing; I have to say the oil filter housing was a bit uncooperative until all of sudden...CLICK, and on it went - had trouble with it trying to cross thread, so I seated the filter a little tighter into the housing and then bingo. Nightmare is over...

Greg

 

I use a Fumoto plug also. Easy! Just flip the valve.

And my filter just pulls out with my bare hands (well, gloved hands, but whatever).

But I can NOT get the filter housing back on myself, no matter what I try. It's incredibly frustrating.

 

Have you tried pre-fitting the filter on both the engine block and the housing cap? I make sure both go in as far as they can before trying to install the cap, and have yet to experience a problem.

 

I was a little afraid of distorting the filter, but I pushed it hard to seat it into the filter housing (as if you were crushing an aluminum can between the palms of your hands). I kept fiddling with it when trying to screw it on and noticed (could feel) unequal distance relative to the threads, meaning it was cross-threading.

So, keep fiddling with it and hand tighten because once it catches, hand-tightening is all you need to screw it most of the way.
Greg