i use alil down pressure on the cap and start in reverse until you feel it catch the opening thread an then tighten.

 

Assumptions:

Old filter out,
Cap cleaned
Filter housing clean
New O-ring on the cap (slime it up with grease before you install the o-ring)

Now: insert the proper end, the one with the rubber gasket into the housing and press it into place until you feel the center tube push up into the center of the filter. Push hard.

Now remove the filter from the housing and install the other end into the cap.

With finger, rub wheel bearing grease onto the inner upper part of the housing, where the O-ring will go.

Now rub some grease on the o-ring on the cap.

Now insert the cap with filter into the housing. It is now pre-stretched on the bottom and will fit down nice and low so that the threads will start by hand.

Turn by hand until you can't turn it anymore (by hand).

Finish up only snug with your socket and ratchet.

Remember, it is the o-ring that is making the seal, not how tight you make it. The grease keeps the o-ring sliding and slipping and not catching and twisting and getting cut. It will stop and you will feel it when you have tightened it enough.

This method will work every time with no leaks or four letter yelps. I know, a spin on would be easier, but that is not what we have.

Good luck

YD

 

be nice if someone can make a remote adapter for the filter

 

so i was going to change my oil today and i also could not get my drain plug off, and ended up stripping it, i will have to take a vice grips to it. but does any one have an idea where i could by a new drain plug?

 

No, not on the engine block. And I'm afraid to try it when I have no one to help me...what happens if I can't get it back on?

 

I got a replacement drain plug from NAPA - it's a metric 14x1.5
You should be able to get one from a number of local sources.

 

Plan a day to the beach, or promise me pizza and beer and I'll be your wingman.

 

Hm, that could probably be arranged...

 

I am a recent victim of the Mini Of San Antonio service shop...Yes, apparently King Kong works there too and has a thing for impact guns and oil drain plugs. Nice to know Mini mechanics follow their own maintenance manuals for torque specifications. I've purchased a set of those Craftsman Damaged Nut and Bolt tool kits, but have still not been able to get the plug off. I am about to drive back down to San Antonio and make them take it off for free as I watch and then show them how to properly tighten the plug. Idiots. They're probably laughing everytime they hit those plugs with about 300 Ft Lbs. "They'll be back...oh, they'll be back."

 

When that happened to me I made the dealer perform the next oil change at no charge for labor, and now I have a Fumoto.

 

I wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving, especially to my customers, Have a happy season one and all!
Don't forget, FREE SHIPPING from now till end of 2008'. Thank you all for your business.
Cheers,

 

I also have never had this problem before. The ham-fisted idiot who changed the oil last time (Me) must have overtightened it. Glad to hear it's not necessarily my fault. By the way, I just ordered the Fumoto Valve (with the nipple), Part # F-106, if anyone's interested. Thanks for all the advice.

 

Okay, so I'll bite and buy a Fumoto Valve. Next question, to nipple or not to nipple? If you have one, you'll know what I mean.

 

The Fumoto is the way to go. I have the nipple, it's fantastic--no mess at all, makes oil changes a breeze. The only downside is if you're having any major engine work done, the fumoto will have to come out--the nipple won't clear the fan behind it. Not a big deal, just something to be aware of.

For anyone doing an oil change, I'd highly recommend either a fumoto or at the very least a spare OEM plug--I had the exact same experience as others on here, and had to remove one with a vice grips (fortunately that was when the fumoto was going on anyway).

Some random thoughts that may or may not have already found their way into this thread--for a totally clean change, once the oil is drained, break the seal on the filter--you'll see more oil start draining again. Once it stops, loosen the filter housing more, when you can do this and no more oil comes out from underneath, you can safely remove the filter and housing without spilling a drop.

I use the gold filters from NAPA (I think they're made by WIX), they are actually better constructed than the OEM filter, and not that expensive. When you put the filter on, I preload it on the spindle by dropping it from one hand to the other (the second hand being right over where the filter goes), then place and tighten the housing--it literally takes seconds this way, I showed a friend who was having problems this trick (after he'd been struggling with it forever), and he broke out laughing hysterically when he saw how easy it was...

 

In defense of the dealers/service departments, I know....don't defend them, and any who know me wonder WHERE I'm going, this problem is SO common that I've begun to suspect another cause - or two.

I note the GEN1 plug is the only one I've ever seen with an integral plastic seal. I wonder if somehow that sticks? Or....some have mentioned a possible metal mismatch ' tween the plug and the pan, allowing some slight binding there for corrosion or electrolosis....

So maybe bashing the service dept ain't the best but then again a dealer told me "we never have a problem....we use a 6 point socket...and a 3 foot breaker bar" ... he didn't mention if they use it for off and ON....

 

Does your Fumoto plug have a place you can safty wire it? If it does can anyone tell me where you can get one.

 

If you check their web site they show a way to use a safety ring to secure it for industrial applications. While I understand your concern, having experience with the product says to me "no worry mate" .... Or you could easily drill a small hole and run a standard safety wire.

My problem is opening it when I WANT it open. Not hard....but not going to accidentailly open either! IMHO

 

+1. I was going to get the safety wire too, but once I got the valve and put it on, it became obvious that it was big time overkill. Once that puppy is shut off, it's not opening. It's really one well constructed little gizmo.

 

My oil drain plug started out as 13mm bolt head, but the last oil change King Kong must have put it in, (I bought it used, 04 S). It wound up an 11mm reverse socket drove on with a 2# hammer & pull bar to remove. next change
I will install a 'petcock'

 

Ran into the same problem today while attempting to change my oil.

The last oil change was done at the dealer under the free maintenance part of the warranty. The plug was in so tight that I stripped the head trying to remove it. I then tried a pair of vice grips but that just stripped it further, rounding out the head even further. So I gave up, even though I had bought a spare drain plug to replace once this one was removed. Now I'll have to take it to the dealer to complain about the over tightening.

Sure would be nice if they remove it and change the oil for me for free while I supply the oil and parts, including the new drain plug. That might be wishful thinking on my part.

 

once it's removed install a petcock drain. NO need for safety wire, they are spring loaded so as not to come open, except manually

 

Use a VW plug (4 cyl through at least 1996, cabrio to 2001, likely a bunch of others) and their copper crush washer. It's a 19mm head and will NOT strip. Do not overtighten. It's that $#% plastic/rubber washer that binds up the works, I suspect it swells on exposure to oil!



I actually lie - REALLY like - the canister filter. Easiest oil change of any car I've owned. Yeah, preseating the filter and oiling the O-ring take a little memory space, but it's no different than spinning on a can, only my hands are clean and the filter doesn't drip everywhere.

 

Yep.

 

I don't believe that washer swells, but I do believe it is the cause of stuck drain plugs. It works as a hella good lock washer.

And folks, if you do not have the proper tools to remove the drain plug, don't.

 

repeating

a 1/2 inch fits better than the metric ... don't ask me why, it just DOES

and

once you get it off replace with a Fumoto and never worry about it again ...

so easy