oil drain plug - must be replaced?
oil drain plug - must be replaced?
my MINI clipped 1,500 miles last week. Used the opportunity to change the oil & filter. Mainly to get all the break-in crap out. Plus, I also filled it with the German Castrol 0W30. (Engine is humming just fine. Seems to love that stuff). 
Quick question. I've seen some DIY instructions saying that you must replace the oil plug when changing the oil. "The seal is integral to the plug". Well I figured as much. I don't have any leaks. For future reference, should one install a new oil plug too?

Quick question. I've seen some DIY instructions saying that you must replace the oil plug when changing the oil. "The seal is integral to the plug". Well I figured as much. I don't have any leaks. For future reference, should one install a new oil plug too?
I didn't do it last time I changed the oil, but since then I picked up a couple
oil pan plugs at the dealer, and will change it next time around. They're
pretty cheap, actually.
I think most people don't change the plug with every change.
So, you should, but you don't absolutely have to.
oil pan plugs at the dealer, and will change it next time around. They're
pretty cheap, actually.
I think most people don't change the plug with every change.
So, you should, but you don't absolutely have to.
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issue to change. Now if I can only find some more $10 rebates for GC 0W30....
(that "stuff" is magic in bottle..).
Mine have come with a fiber washer. I do use a couple of turns of teflon tape on the threads, but that's just habit.
The GC 0W30 tends to lean towards the W40 side, (per "Bob is the Oil" guy website).
I've heard of folks around here running W40 Mobil synthetic too.
From Bob's site, the GC should hold up fine here in Phoenix. True, GC can hold up fine, it's the filters I'm worried about. I won't push more than 7,500 miles per oil change, even with FULL synthetic oil. I wouldn't go that far with the dealership 5W30 "cracked" syntec. Maybe 3 or 4K miles per change, with that "stuff".
Just my preference... If folks want to push their cars to one year or 12/15K miles. Fine, they can live with it. Oil is cheap insurance. 7,500 miles per change with full synthetic. No prob!
I've heard of folks around here running W40 Mobil synthetic too.
From Bob's site, the GC should hold up fine here in Phoenix. True, GC can hold up fine, it's the filters I'm worried about. I won't push more than 7,500 miles per oil change, even with FULL synthetic oil. I wouldn't go that far with the dealership 5W30 "cracked" syntec. Maybe 3 or 4K miles per change, with that "stuff".
Just my preference... If folks want to push their cars to one year or 12/15K miles. Fine, they can live with it. Oil is cheap insurance. 7,500 miles per change with full synthetic. No prob!
i was thinking about getting one on the legacycause i change oil on that car the most.
My guess is the drain plug will last for many oil changes. I will replace it when the time comes. A new one is kept on my garage shelf just in case. Buying one before its needed will save a headache later.
The drain plug should easily outlast the car, as long as it's not overtightened. The bolt is not what wears (unless you use pliers or open-ended wrenches on it instead of a box-end or socket) but the captive o-ring. There is no reason to change the plug at every interval, and it will definitely let you know if it were failing without a catastorphic leak. At most you would see a drop accumulate after a while. Replace it then.
But the threads on the aluminum oil pan may not last that long. It's commom for these threads to get worn/stripped past the point of usability. That's the primary reason people install the Fumoto valve on a MINI.
This is true too. The primary reason for stripped oil pan threads is overtightening the bolt or cross-threading it on installation. Even the stock tightening spec is really higher than necessary. An o-ringed plug like the one on these cars does not need the cranking that used to be necessary on older cars with steel oil pans and metal-to-metal sealing. The Fumoto valve makes removing the plug unecessary and can make for a tidier draining operation.
For the 95 cents the drain plug cost me there's no reason not to have a spare handy. I am not a fan of a Fumoto valve. It's likely to snap off it hits anything.
I know my drain plug won't snap off.
I know my drain plug won't snap off.
It shouldn't as long as you don't torque the crap out of it. I'm at 50k and have never replaced the plug. Our Honda Insight has a Magnesium oil pan (very easily stripped) and, while the Aluminum crush washer needs to be replaced every time, the pan hasn't stripped in 90k miles of 5k mile oil changes
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