2009 Clubman, not even 4,000 miles. Window dipping doesn't work. Will not reset with the 10 second up method. Window also returns to 50% level after reaching the up position (auto child safety features activates).

 

Hi -- i have a 2008 cooper s... had it for 2 weeks now. Window dipping quit working two days ago on driver side and as noted in previous post if i go all the way up with the window it automatically comes down half way (i guess this is the child safety feature)....

i've looked through the manual and tried the 10 sec reset... which does not work. anyone know how to reset the window dipping for 2007+ coopers or at minimum turn off the child safety feature? i cannot close my window all the way because if i try it automatically comes down 50%... very annoying... closest dealer 2 hours away...

thx for info

 

There is a good chance it's a software issue. If it's still under warrentee, take it in for a software update.

 

To the guy who posted the window motor re-set:

Thank you.

My window has not worked in over a week. Went down to the garage, open the door, started the car, banged 3 times, and wa-la, it's works.

Now my contribution, did you know if you toggle up on the power lock switch, it will roll BOTH windows down at the same time.

 

This just happened on my '03 MCS JCW, passenger side - Depression set in!

Thanks to the review of this thread (thank god no need to create a new thread!) it now works!

It seems to be the "stuck" in one position issue (up, thankfully) We will see how long it lasts. Interesting to see that some "cleaning" of the contacts may help)

Appreciate all the info.

 

My passenger window has been stuck up for a week. One whack and it's and it's good to go. Now that's quality!

Mark

 

WHEW!!!!! Thank goodness for this thread. My 2004 MCS drivers side window
was stuck in the up position (worked fine this past weekend....but not today)
so I tried the "wack" method and it is working now (at least for the time
being). Thanks much all!

 

mini window motor design are crap.. very sensitve to the heat.. they never really break just work only when they want to. but the window regulator that's another story, they will break i have already replaced both sides. i'ts about an hour job not fun but can be done.. you can find them on ebay for around 100 bucks.. this so far is my only complaint...

 

While rolling up the driver's window I noticed excessive drag and vibration caused by the rubber molding perhaps. The next time the window was used it had a fairly severe pop or bang right before it reached the closed position. I wondered if anyone had expierenced this. I'm guessing this is trip to the dealer. Thanks, bneer

 

I was getting some klunking/banging on both lowering and raising the drivers window on my recently acquired '04 S and upon inspection discovered a broken plastic retaining clip that holds the two cables against the door. The most forward clip had broken both of it's retaining lugs and was allowing the window to hit the cables on the way down causing the first klunk. When raising the glass, the cables would slap the door once the window was nearly all the way up.

I purchased a regulator installation kit online for about $16 which included 2 new plastic clips and a bunch of hardware I didn't need. I installed the new plastic clip and got about 10 window cycles before it snapped off!!! It appears that the uppermost cable torques quite hard when the window first begins to lower and also when it just closes. I decided to do a permanent fix so I located where the original clip mounting holes were on the inside of the door's hollow area and drilled a 3/4" diameter access hole in the steel door panel. I used 2 marine-style hose/wire clamps with a short bolt to lock them tightly against the door. No more noise and no possibility of breaking the stainless/rubber clamps.

It's easy to see if your problem is similar to mine: just remove the door panel as detailed in other posts and use a flashlight and mirror to look up inside the door. You'll see the 2 cables and if the clip is broken it will be hanging with the cables.

Eric

 

What is the window reset function? Anyone have a link?

Thanks!

 

make sure you lock the clips in both posititions upper and lower or it will keep hangin up, i left part of top off when i replaced the regulator on my wifes mini and it got hung up on the way down and broke the clip, i made sure clip was properly attached the second time around...oh and if your are having a drag issue try some silicone spray on the rubber around the window...

 

I fitted the new clip with the upper tang in its hole and the lower clip in its place but the upper cable snapped the upper tang clean off!! Glad I was able to fit some stainless clips instead, but not everyone wants to cut a 3/4" hole in their steel door.

Eric

 

Thanks for the responses to the window bang. I have now had alternating failure of the jump up feature. I am referring to the drop down and up at the door closing. The window then fails to operate through several ignition starts. It does reset, am I going to need motor relacements?

 

Wow, here it is 2011 and GBMINI's advice is still as good as gold. I took my 02 R53 out of the garage this winter after letting it sit through a few weeks of snowstorms and of course, the driver-side window wouldn't work . I heard clicking, so I figured that the fuses and switch were good.

So after finding this thread, I preceded to try the "window reset" technique. It worked like a champ. Windows going up and down just like before. Great advice GBMINI!

I rented a Chrysler Pacifica near the Newark airport a few years ago. After traveling about 30 miles north the vehicle lost all power and shut down. I was just about ready to call the rental company, but before I did, I recalled that Chrysler had a lot of electrical issues with their cars. Based on that thought, I rapidly thumped the dash and tried to restart the car. Everything came on as usual and I drove the car about 800 more miles on that particular business trip.

 

Just been reading through the long history of window problems. I'll give the open door reset procedure a try in the morning to see if it works for my '03 MCS stuck (in the up position) driver's side window. But I thought I'd write tonight and see if anyone noticed that their driver's side door won't lock as well.

The window has been stuck in the up position for a couple of days. Just today I discovered that the driver's side door isn't locking. I hear the doors lock when I hit the remote and yet the drivers side remains unlocked. Passenger side and rear hatch locks work fine. Same result when I use the toggle inside. I hope that curing the stuck window will cause the door lock to start working again.

Anyone else share this experience? Is it wishful thinking that solving the window problem will solve the door lock problem?

Thanks!

 

Here we are a year later, reviving a thread.....
Drivers side window stuck up.
I tried everything listed above. Finally unhooked the battery for a while. Hooked it back up and still nothing. Finally got fed up, and whacked the door, and it started working again. Then I tried opening the passenger side and the dip feature wasn't working. Started the MINI and then tried it again, and both sides worked as they should. Dip works, and windows work again. THANK GOD! Don't have the money to have it fixed right now, and I'm sure something else will fail shortly. I guess it is British, and a BMW, so it doesn't surprise me that beating on it makes it work....

 

+1 on this. If that does not work, the door panel is easily removed and the motor can be LIGHTLY tapped with a very small hammer, and it will work for years (or until it needs motivation again).

This has been the case with my pas. window forever, although it doesn't need more than a tap with the fist (maybe about three or four times in the past 6 years of ownership).

 

Sounds like two separate issues. The door lock is usually contributed to the door module (I have had a 100% success rate on this, results may vary). The door locks may lock and not unlock, or not unlock but lock, etc etc. When you have one dead in the system (as in your case, only the driver door), that has been the issue.

IIRC the replacement door lock mechanism is about $130, and I am sure theres a DIY on it somewhere. When this goes on the passenger side, most people just lean over to pull the handle and unlock if they don't want to fix it. In your case with the driver door, I can imagine it is annoying to go from the habit of keyless entry to the 1980s

 

For some reason mine just started working again. I'm scared to open it in fear of it being stuck down.

 

Fast forward to October 2012. My 05 MCS window issue was solved with a few thumps to the door panel above the speaker while holding the window toggle in the up position.

What remains a semi-problem is the drivers side door lock. It will close with remote but ... not open with remote..... no matter how much I thump !

The passenger side is fully functional.