Quite right...because my motor died a week after it started working AGAIN. My window was stuck down this time around, so I was really motivated to get the window fixed ASAP. The dealership replaced the motor - no charge (warranty).

 

Mine got stuck at least a year ago in the up position. I pushed down on the window and off it went. Hasn't gotten stuck since (knock on wood).

 

Looks like I'm off to the dealer to see if I have any transferable waranty.

I just bought an '03 S today and wouldn't you know it, the only thing I didn't check was the driver's window, and sure enough, it's not working.

 

Anyone priced the Window liner? I'm in an 02' MC....

 

The "hit the door" trick worked, sort of...

My driver's window still doesn't roll down slightly when you open the door or up slightly when you close it, which means it's not sealing properly when I close the door and I have air rushing in. Is this still part of the same problem or something different?

 

The "door dip" program can be re-taught:
engine on, door open ... hold window UP switch for at least 10s

But if the window doesn't seal when it's fully closed with the switch while the door is closed, you probably have a problem with the seal. Maybe it got damaged if the window hasn't been dipping on door open.

 

Window reset way worked for me since I started this thread......until yesterday..... so you do the math.....and of course I tried this method again and window is working fine again. I know, we will eventually have to replace the motor and from what I am reading on this board -it should not be a very dificult job.

 

now my passenger's window is stuck down again (already replaced motor once)... tried the well known door wack, but nada... looks like she is going in... I would rather have the window stuck up....

 

Since it was mentioned (either on this thread or another) that the cause was dirt getting in the motor, I tore my motor apart, sprayed it down w/ electrical cleaner, then re-assembled it. Works great now, however I would'nt recomend the procedure to just anyone. the motor is hard to re-assemble and get the brushes to line up properly, etc.

 

My windows stopped working, 1st one, then the other. Pounding on the door helped for a while, but then even that stopped working. I went months with them out of service. I did plan on eventually changing the motors...
Instead I devoted time to replacing the serpentine belt. NOW the WINDOWS work fine???
Ah Ha! I had the battery cable disconnected. Electronics resetting? Improved cable connection? I only disconnected the positive cable...
I better not question why, i'll just enjoy the working windows.

Draw some conclusions that will will help us understand this issue...

Ann

 

You didn't happen to pray to the ghost of Lucas in the meanwhile, did you?

 

I replace mine, on average, every other year. Funness! (and I think this is a replacement year . . . )

 

when I had mine replaced at 6k a couple years ago, I was fortunate to get the last 2 regulators the dealer had in stock. All the rest were backordered at least a month. You'd think, after decades, that BMW just might get smart enough to find a sub contractor that can make a decent and reliable window regulator. Evidently not...

 

I also don't understand why this is such a huge problem, and I cite all the other car mfrs in the world who DON'T have this problem ie: my '98 Lexus ES300 with 92k miles has never had this problem,(or any other electrical problem for that matter) nor has any other non-BMW car I've owned over the years. So what's the story BMW? This has to be costing them a lot of money over the years........

I just had both mine replaced at no charge last month on my '03 MCS, even tho I'm out of warranty on both time and miles........

 

Cheap motors, that's the main reason.
I guess the dipping function uses the motors a bit more than they might be used in a car which doesn't dip it's windows - but mostly it's the quality of the motors.

 

what's so damned tragic is that BMW uses the same regulator in a $18K MINI as well as a $100K M6....

 

'zactly my point......seems like when you add up all the warranty costs not to mention the bad publicity they'd want to do somethng about this, like buy them from a Japanese supplier if nothing else!

 

Mine just broke, stuck at down position on Sunday Morning in LA! when it was raining!!!!! I had to drive home with my passenger window WIDE OPEN all the way from LA - OC in Rain!(30+ mile drive on the FWY)

just droped my Mini at Long Beach Mini this morning... and my warranty just expired 1k miles ago. arrrgggg!!

my service rep told me $500ish to fix it if it's the Motor thats gone bad... I wish I'd known about the problem 2 weeks ago when i still had my Warranty.

 

I would nicely but firmly push back on that cost. This is a known issue and it seems like they should help you with for goodwill.

 

I have 2008 MCS and it's only 8 days old. Driver side window dipping problem like every one mentioned. Tried the 10 second re-set, re-taught and didn't work. The dealer said waiting for software engineer to update newer version. Waited a whole week and still didn't hear anything from them...not too happy...brand new car and it already gives me trouble :-(

 

DoPooh, your 2008 is an R56 while this thread discusses the original R50/R53 MINIs ... I don't know about R56 windows, but it's quite likely they don't have the same programming / resetting / etc, which might be why the re-teach didn't work

 

Thank you! nothing like a little banging to make something work!
-Anne

 

LOL, how stupid can BMW be?
I was at the dealership recently and I opened and closed the door of a new 135i listed at $43k (what a JOKE, but that is a story for a different day) and the window would go all the way up before the door completely closed. It resulted in the door being very hard to close (obviously) and I worried that it would break the glass. I told the saleman and he said that it is an issue of a low battery because they go low in the showroom (he didn't even think of the logic that, if that is the case, why is it NOT a problem on the other side, and NO other electronics had a problem?).

 

This is pretty pathetic - brand new Clubman Cooper S with 750 miles and driver's side window not working. Leaves a pretty sour taste in the mouth - what else (that I can't see) is put together as sloppily? Likely will ditch this little car ASAP.

 

OUTSTANDING!!
Been living with my driver's window stuck in the 'up' position for 2 weeks.
Really interfered with my ability to use the drive-thru. Drag.
Mine's an 03 mcs hard top. Problem started when my battery was disconnected briefly during a repair. Driver's side only, which is why I didn't associate the problem with the battery interruption.

Door open- motor running.
Window switch held in up position for 10 seconds.
Released switch with door still open- window 'dips' as per normal.
Close door- window moves slightly up to seal as per normal.
Switch down- window down.
Switch up- window up!
All normal function restored, including remote 'all open' function from key.

Was more comfortable attempting this solution than the 'solid whack' suggestion that I read here, though that was to be the plan B.

Thanks GBMINI I will think kind thoughts about you as I enjoy my Whataburger at lunch today.