M7 Strut Bar install suggestion (insulation pad surgery)
M7 Strut Bar install suggestion (insulation pad surgery)
I bought an M7 Strut Bar (STB) last week. The install is straight-forward. MINI, somehow, makes no accomodation for the strut bar (not even the JCW version) on the under-bonnet insulation pad (IP). The M7 STB's height causes the back of the bonnet to be pushed up.
It was suggested that I thoroughly soak the contact area of the STB to IP by spraying distilled water from a plastic spray bottle. Then I should place plastic over the STB and close the bonnet. This, in theory, would compress the IP sufficiently to permit the bonnet to close completely. Well, this didn't work for me. The cotton felt of the IP is very dense and the fabric that covers the IP seems to resist the penetration of the water, to a great extent.
Peter at M7 suggested that I remove the IP and using a utility knife, cut the black cover material on the back of the IP - along the impression lines that the STB made, and remove the compressed cotton insulation in the area of the STB via the slits the rear of the pad. I made two parallel slits - about 2.5' apart, along the area where the STB contacts the IP. I pulled the cotton felt out of the IP by hand and also using a needle-nose plier where the material is very compressed. I set the IP over the engine compartment and could then feel where I needed to remove more insulation, by pressing the IP to the STB.
After a few test bonnet closings, I used heavy black duct tape to mend the slits on the back of the IP, and then re-installed the IP to the underside of the bonnet. VOILA!
This worked great. The IP looks untouched and the bonnet closes properly, now.
It was suggested that I thoroughly soak the contact area of the STB to IP by spraying distilled water from a plastic spray bottle. Then I should place plastic over the STB and close the bonnet. This, in theory, would compress the IP sufficiently to permit the bonnet to close completely. Well, this didn't work for me. The cotton felt of the IP is very dense and the fabric that covers the IP seems to resist the penetration of the water, to a great extent.
Peter at M7 suggested that I remove the IP and using a utility knife, cut the black cover material on the back of the IP - along the impression lines that the STB made, and remove the compressed cotton insulation in the area of the STB via the slits the rear of the pad. I made two parallel slits - about 2.5' apart, along the area where the STB contacts the IP. I pulled the cotton felt out of the IP by hand and also using a needle-nose plier where the material is very compressed. I set the IP over the engine compartment and could then feel where I needed to remove more insulation, by pressing the IP to the STB.
After a few test bonnet closings, I used heavy black duct tape to mend the slits on the back of the IP, and then re-installed the IP to the underside of the bonnet. VOILA!
Originally Posted by SpunkytheTuna
I took my underhood pad off and tossed it into the garage about eight months or a year ago.
Nothing bad's happened as a result.
Nothing bad's happened as a result.
Originally Posted by rubyred3
haven't there been reports of paint on the bonnet discoloring with this pad removed?
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Originally Posted by El_Jefe
over time, that sort of heat can kill your paint. if you drive it right. 

There are little plastic doodads that hold it to the hood. If you take a look under the bonnet they are easy to see. The pad is very easy to remove & reinstall.
I helped with an install of a upper strut tower bar a few months ago. Once the bar was in place, I covered the top of it with baby powder and gently closed the bonnet. When we opened the bonnet, we could easily see where contact was made and we trimmed away bits of the liner until the fit was right and no more powder was transferred.
i would also probably just remove the pad rather than cutting it.
I helped with an install of a upper strut tower bar a few months ago. Once the bar was in place, I covered the top of it with baby powder and gently closed the bonnet. When we opened the bonnet, we could easily see where contact was made and we trimmed away bits of the liner until the fit was right and no more powder was transferred.
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