What Makes a MINI Click? Broken Selector Shaft?
Woah
nixed the retorque. Foound out on the lift the car has to go to the dealer for a bad knuckle joint on the same wheel! and the right rear jack mount has to be put on ... must have come off on a bump or something... 
New Country fit me in on Friday

New Country fit me in on Friday
Originally Posted by GMINIO
Headin over to the local shop to get the retorque. Couldn't see hiding a third torque wrench in my kitchen just to perform this simpler task.
Glad to hear it's still workin!
Glad to hear it's still workin!
And Now.....
After braving the backroads of NW CT for two hours to make my engagement with New Country, and waiting the 2 hours before I ask for the car, as they had promised me, I have been told to fetch a rental car as the loaners are all gone and come back for it monday. Nothing strange here.
The click. They think by replacing the tie rod end the click will be fixed. If they remove the axle, it will. Otherwise i'll be getting Che back at a later date.
They rolled the the wheel back and forth and the tranny shifted, and therefore the lower motor mount (is there more than one lower on the MINI?) is in need of replacement.
Though the car squeaks at ignition and when slipping the clutch into gear, they could not replicate it.
Is it possible that a simple wheel lug retightorque would quiet the wheel click temporarily? It sure seemed like it after I left autotechnic this past wednesday morning.
Cheers!
After braving the backroads of NW CT for two hours to make my engagement with New Country, and waiting the 2 hours before I ask for the car, as they had promised me, I have been told to fetch a rental car as the loaners are all gone and come back for it monday. Nothing strange here.
The click. They think by replacing the tie rod end the click will be fixed. If they remove the axle, it will. Otherwise i'll be getting Che back at a later date.
They rolled the the wheel back and forth and the tranny shifted, and therefore the lower motor mount (is there more than one lower on the MINI?) is in need of replacement.
Though the car squeaks at ignition and when slipping the clutch into gear, they could not replicate it.
Is it possible that a simple wheel lug retightorque would quiet the wheel click temporarily? It sure seemed like it after I left autotechnic this past wednesday morning.
Cheers!
the click diag
i do belive that the click your r hearing is coming from a rust build up between the axle spindle and the bearing splines don't think the retouge is gonna last for to long or for too many people glad to hear you are clickless d&s but i belive it will come back.
Originally Posted by lvbltec
i do belive that the click your r hearing is coming from a rust build up between the axle spindle and the bearing splines don't think the retouge is gonna last for to long or for too many people glad to hear you are clickless d&s but i belive it will come back.
Originally Posted by lvbltec
intill the rust builds back up
I really wish I understood it better.
Here's my theory, It's the brakes.
the front caliper bushings are rubber, there has to be some flex there, this could work the pad off the piston slightly and that would make it click.
reasoning for this: My car used to make a click from the front wheels and it stopped at around 35k miles when the front brakes got replaced. Now I have 62K on the car and it could be that it takes a while until the pads wear down enough to cause them to click.
The other thing that could cause this is that if the front pads are like the back pads, the pad on the piston side has a wire retaining clip that holds the pad to the piston. They could have come loose as well.
I would check to make sure the caliper pins and the bushings are well lubed and that there is no play in the caliper, check that the pins are set to the right torque and that the spring clips are all in place.
When they replace the half-shaft do they have to take the brake off. if so, that could be a reason why the click would go a way and come back.
At the end of the month. I am going to be replacing the caliper bushings and the pads so we'll see if that solves the problem.
of course this could all be wrong.
the front caliper bushings are rubber, there has to be some flex there, this could work the pad off the piston slightly and that would make it click.
reasoning for this: My car used to make a click from the front wheels and it stopped at around 35k miles when the front brakes got replaced. Now I have 62K on the car and it could be that it takes a while until the pads wear down enough to cause them to click.
The other thing that could cause this is that if the front pads are like the back pads, the pad on the piston side has a wire retaining clip that holds the pad to the piston. They could have come loose as well.
I would check to make sure the caliper pins and the bushings are well lubed and that there is no play in the caliper, check that the pins are set to the right torque and that the spring clips are all in place.
When they replace the half-shaft do they have to take the brake off. if so, that could be a reason why the click would go a way and come back.
At the end of the month. I am going to be replacing the caliper bushings and the pads so we'll see if that solves the problem.
of course this could all be wrong.
Originally Posted by tscheez
that's true, it shouldn't. i'm just trying to figure out why it would click and then stop for 25k miles after a brake job.
ah jake. Now that may be just because when they hammered the fk out of your wheel to get it off, they inadvertantly dislodged some of the rust lvbl is porporting to be the cause. I can back that up with my own experience of having the wheenl removed and replaced (actually just the bolts) and having a period of clicklessness shorter than a week.
Re-torque didn't work
Originally Posted by Dave&Stacy
No. We have had the click occur on BOTH the driver's side and the passenger side. Had 2 half-shafts replaced on the driver's side, solved the click both times...for a few weeks. So far after the last half-shaft replacement, the driver's side has not clicked anymore. On the passenger side, we have never had anything replaced. I simply re-torqued the nut and so far...so good (only been 4 or 5 days).
-Dave & Stacy
http://www.smsrallysport.com/
-Dave & Stacy
http://www.smsrallysport.com/
Jim Z
Originally Posted by cincymcs
My 05 MCS started the clicking about three weeks ago. I made an appt, and took a copy of this thread, including the detailed instructions about how to do the axle nut retrq. None of the techs heard of this issue, but were very open to trying this simple solution first. Unfortunately, the retrq didn't solve the clicking noise, so they proceeded to replace the right-side driveshaft. This cured most of it. I'm taking it in next week to get the left side unit replaced. Hopefully, that will eliminate the clicking completely.
Jim Z
Jim Z
Someone posted above somewhere (wildone? Dave n Stacy?) that their first retorque was ineffective and the second has been the fix... just spent some time looking for it...
Re-Tourqued my drivers side Axle Nut. You need a breaker bar to break it loose, a 32mm socket and a torque wrench to retorque it down.
I took the nut off, moved the half shalf back and forth a few times then tightened it up and staked the nut with drift. It clicked once, the first time I moved the car in a forward direction, but have not heard it again.
Thanks everyone!
Sorry to hear GMG. :(
I saw a replacement driveshaft in minimania's clearance section...$845!
http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NM.../InvDetail.cfm
Get your free one while you're still under warranty!
I saw a replacement driveshaft in minimania's clearance section...$845!
http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NM.../InvDetail.cfm
Get your free one while you're still under warranty!
if someone is ever feeling adventurous, you can get the axle assemblies for about $320 online at http://www.thepartsbin.com
Originally Posted by tscheez
if someone is ever feeling adventurous, you can get the axle assemblies for about $320 online at http://www.thepartsbin.com
Josh's MINIMania shaft is a track modified one. i wonder if that would ever click like ours.
Still click-less all! Not sure what's going on with everyone else. Something you might look at when you do the re-torque is increasing the torque on the nut by say 5 ft-lbs over the factory spec. Might be enough to fix things. Just my $0.02.
-Dave & Stacy
-Dave & Stacy


