Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

What Makes a MINI Click? Broken Selector Shaft?

Old Aug 10, 2005 | 06:53 AM
  #126  
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Woah

nixed the retorque. Foound out on the lift the car has to go to the dealer for a bad knuckle joint on the same wheel! and the right rear jack mount has to be put on ... must have come off on a bump or something...

New Country fit me in on Friday
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 05:54 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by GMINIO
Headin over to the local shop to get the retorque. Couldn't see hiding a third torque wrench in my kitchen just to perform this simpler task.

Glad to hear it's still workin!
LOL I hear ya!!
 
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 03:10 PM
  #128  
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And Now.....

After braving the backroads of NW CT for two hours to make my engagement with New Country, and waiting the 2 hours before I ask for the car, as they had promised me, I have been told to fetch a rental car as the loaners are all gone and come back for it monday. Nothing strange here.

The click. They think by replacing the tie rod end the click will be fixed. If they remove the axle, it will. Otherwise i'll be getting Che back at a later date.

They rolled the the wheel back and forth and the tranny shifted, and therefore the lower motor mount (is there more than one lower on the MINI?) is in need of replacement.

Though the car squeaks at ignition and when slipping the clutch into gear, they could not replicate it.

Is it possible that a simple wheel lug retightorque would quiet the wheel click temporarily? It sure seemed like it after I left autotechnic this past wednesday morning.

Cheers!
 
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 05:51 AM
  #129  
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Not much action in this thread for awhile. Just thought we'd bump it up and report that we are still click-less after our "home re-torque".

-Dave & Stacy
 
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 05:57 AM
  #130  
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Good News, Dave&Stacy!

My foray into MINI service landed me yet another new axle. Now I have one for each side of the tranny. And boy is che pleasant without that clicking!

 
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 12:04 PM
  #131  
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the click diag

i do belive that the click your r hearing is coming from a rust build up between the axle spindle and the bearing splines don't think the retouge is gonna last for to long or for too many people glad to hear you are clickless d&s but i belive it will come back.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 12:25 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by lvbltec
i do belive that the click your r hearing is coming from a rust build up between the axle spindle and the bearing splines don't think the retouge is gonna last for to long or for too many people glad to hear you are clickless d&s but i belive it will come back.
And will a shaft replacement take care of it forevah, lvbl? or is it a crap shoot?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 10:12 AM
  #133  
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From: va
intill the rust builds back up



Originally Posted by GMINIO
And will a shaft replacement take care of it forevah, lvbl? or is it a crap shoot?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 10:32 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by lvbltec
intill the rust builds back up
that from an actual MINI tech, folks. the rust. the rust is building up and causing a clicking noise in the wheel. I suspect that more rust is accumulating in the winter, what with the salt and all.

I really wish I understood it better.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 03:15 PM
  #135  
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Here's my theory, It's the brakes.

the front caliper bushings are rubber, there has to be some flex there, this could work the pad off the piston slightly and that would make it click.

reasoning for this: My car used to make a click from the front wheels and it stopped at around 35k miles when the front brakes got replaced. Now I have 62K on the car and it could be that it takes a while until the pads wear down enough to cause them to click.

The other thing that could cause this is that if the front pads are like the back pads, the pad on the piston side has a wire retaining clip that holds the pad to the piston. They could have come loose as well.

I would check to make sure the caliper pins and the bushings are well lubed and that there is no play in the caliper, check that the pins are set to the right torque and that the spring clips are all in place.

When they replace the half-shaft do they have to take the brake off. if so, that could be a reason why the click would go a way and come back.

At the end of the month. I am going to be replacing the caliper bushings and the pads so we'll see if that solves the problem.

of course this could all be wrong.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 08:16 PM
  #136  
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hi tscheez!

to my knowledge the brakes remain in place as the shaft is swapped.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 06:06 AM
  #137  
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hmm, well, maybe that's not it. I was hoping to avoid an axle.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 07:21 AM
  #138  
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it certainly still could be your brakes. Even if the click is only at momentum shift, or with wheel rotation.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 09:03 AM
  #139  
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brake calipers should not move in a way like that to cause a click that is what the spring on the front of the caliper is for
 
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 03:36 PM
  #140  
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that's true, it shouldn't. i'm just trying to figure out why it would click and then stop for 25k miles after a brake job.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 04:06 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by tscheez
that's true, it shouldn't. i'm just trying to figure out why it would click and then stop for 25k miles after a brake job.

ah jake. Now that may be just because when they hammered the fk out of your wheel to get it off, they inadvertantly dislodged some of the rust lvbl is porporting to be the cause. I can back that up with my own experience of having the wheenl removed and replaced (actually just the bolts) and having a period of clicklessness shorter than a week.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 06:42 AM
  #142  
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Re-torque didn't work

Originally Posted by Dave&Stacy
No. We have had the click occur on BOTH the driver's side and the passenger side. Had 2 half-shafts replaced on the driver's side, solved the click both times...for a few weeks. So far after the last half-shaft replacement, the driver's side has not clicked anymore. On the passenger side, we have never had anything replaced. I simply re-torqued the nut and so far...so good (only been 4 or 5 days).

-Dave & Stacy
http://www.smsrallysport.com/
My 05 MCS started the clicking about three weeks ago. I made an appt, and took a copy of this thread, including the detailed instructions about how to do the axle nut retrq. None of the techs heard of this issue, but were very open to trying this simple solution first. Unfortunately, the retrq didn't solve the clicking noise, so they proceeded to replace the right-side driveshaft. This cured most of it. I'm taking it in next week to get the left side unit replaced. Hopefully, that will eliminate the clicking completely.

Jim Z
 
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 07:41 AM
  #143  
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retourqe worked for me. Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 09:42 AM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by cincymcs
My 05 MCS started the clicking about three weeks ago. I made an appt, and took a copy of this thread, including the detailed instructions about how to do the axle nut retrq. None of the techs heard of this issue, but were very open to trying this simple solution first. Unfortunately, the retrq didn't solve the clicking noise, so they proceeded to replace the right-side driveshaft. This cured most of it. I'm taking it in next week to get the left side unit replaced. Hopefully, that will eliminate the clicking completely.

Jim Z

Someone posted above somewhere (wildone? Dave n Stacy?) that their first retorque was ineffective and the second has been the fix... just spent some time looking for it...
 
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 06:30 AM
  #145  
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I had the same clicking noise coming from the drivers wheel area. As I was laying on the ground in our driveway diagnosing for the click, my wife, who already thinks I am nuts said "Why don't you look on that forum thingy to see if anyone has had the same noise?". Of couse I said "BAH! I'll figure it out!!" Well after disassembling the entire strut, brake and rotor and checking torque on just about every nut and bolt under the car, I cracked open a cold one, drowned my ego and checked in with NAM. Sure enough this is the first thread I find! So far so good!!


Re-Tourqued my drivers side Axle Nut. You need a breaker bar to break it loose, a 32mm socket and a torque wrench to retorque it down.

I took the nut off, moved the half shalf back and forth a few times then tightened it up and staked the nut with drift. It clicked once, the first time I moved the car in a forward direction, but have not heard it again.

Thanks everyone!
 
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Old Sep 12, 2005 | 06:12 AM
  #146  
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The click is back! Time to call the dealer!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 10:32 AM
  #147  
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Sorry to hear GMG. :(
I saw a replacement driveshaft in minimania's clearance section...$845!
http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NM.../InvDetail.cfm
Get your free one while you're still under warranty!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 01:42 PM
  #148  
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if someone is ever feeling adventurous, you can get the axle assemblies for about $320 online at http://www.thepartsbin.com
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 09:19 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by tscheez
if someone is ever feeling adventurous, you can get the axle assemblies for about $320 online at http://www.thepartsbin.com

Josh's MINIMania shaft is a track modified one. i wonder if that would ever click like ours.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 11:12 AM
  #150  
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Still click-less all! Not sure what's going on with everyone else. Something you might look at when you do the re-torque is increasing the torque on the nut by say 5 ft-lbs over the factory spec. Might be enough to fix things. Just my $0.02.

-Dave & Stacy
 
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