Is your car stalling upon starting?
These issues are generally related to programming, no matter what your dealer tells you. Just because they re-flash your vehicle, does not mean you will have improvement. This is an issue where the CPU of the vehicle is misinterpreting information- if you go too far with troubles of this nature, despite constant "reprogramming," you should insist that the dealer have your CPU pulled and sent to the VDC for evaluation.
And any owner who is told by a dealer, to switch to a low octane fuel, well, that should be reported to MINIUSA, it is just so absurd, and directly contradicts your owner's manual. Remember, the computer equipment on modern cars will "set itself" to adjust to certain fuel qualities. So, you should be tracking down the best fuel you can, and sticking with that brand, even down to the service facility, since constantly switching, (such as price shopping), will confuse your car's CPU as it continually tries to adjust the car's performance to compensate for fuel quality. Putting low octane fuel, that will start you on bad path and a dealer who suggests that is clearly disinterested and incompetent.
And any owner who is told by a dealer, to switch to a low octane fuel, well, that should be reported to MINIUSA, it is just so absurd, and directly contradicts your owner's manual. Remember, the computer equipment on modern cars will "set itself" to adjust to certain fuel qualities. So, you should be tracking down the best fuel you can, and sticking with that brand, even down to the service facility, since constantly switching, (such as price shopping), will confuse your car's CPU as it continually tries to adjust the car's performance to compensate for fuel quality. Putting low octane fuel, that will start you on bad path and a dealer who suggests that is clearly disinterested and incompetent.
Originally Posted by vladimir
These issues are generally related to programming, no matter what your dealer tells you. Just because they re-flash your vehicle, does not mean you will have improvement. This is an issue where the CPU of the vehicle is misinterpreting information- if you go too far with troubles of this nature, despite constant "reprogramming," you should insist that the dealer have your CPU pulled and sent to the VDC for evaluation.
And any owner who is told by a dealer, to switch to a low octane fuel, well, that should be reported to MINIUSA, it is just so absurd, and directly contradicts your owner's manual. Remember, the computer equipment on modern cars will "set itself" to adjust to certain fuel qualities. So, you should be tracking down the best fuel you can, and sticking with that brand, even down to the service facility, since constantly switching, (such as price shopping), will confuse your car's CPU as it continually tries to adjust the car's performance to compensate for fuel quality. Putting low octane fuel, that will start you on bad path and a dealer who suggests that is clearly disinterested and incompetent.
And any owner who is told by a dealer, to switch to a low octane fuel, well, that should be reported to MINIUSA, it is just so absurd, and directly contradicts your owner's manual. Remember, the computer equipment on modern cars will "set itself" to adjust to certain fuel qualities. So, you should be tracking down the best fuel you can, and sticking with that brand, even down to the service facility, since constantly switching, (such as price shopping), will confuse your car's CPU as it continually tries to adjust the car's performance to compensate for fuel quality. Putting low octane fuel, that will start you on bad path and a dealer who suggests that is clearly disinterested and incompetent.
"since constantly switching, (such as price shopping), will confuse your car's CPU as it continually tries to adjust the car's performance to compensate for fuel quality. Putting low octane fuel, that will start you on bad path"
This is only partially accurate. The ECU is adaptive but not to the grade of fuel. The knock sensors take care of that by pulling timing when knock is detected. Still very wrong for a dealer to tell me to use a lower grade of fuel. Our fuel here in the NW is bad enough (91-92 oct) as it is. All that running 87 oct (that the dealer reccommended) would do is kill the performance. As soon as it came on boost it would knock and pull timing. I was hoping the dealer would give me that in writin so I could send it on to MiniUSA. Of course they would not do that. Not even in an email.
This is only partially accurate. The ECU is adaptive but not to the grade of fuel. The knock sensors take care of that by pulling timing when knock is detected. Still very wrong for a dealer to tell me to use a lower grade of fuel. Our fuel here in the NW is bad enough (91-92 oct) as it is. All that running 87 oct (that the dealer reccommended) would do is kill the performance. As soon as it came on boost it would knock and pull timing. I was hoping the dealer would give me that in writin so I could send it on to MiniUSA. Of course they would not do that. Not even in an email.
Originally Posted by MiniMe05
"I was hoping the dealer would give me that in writin so I could send it on to MiniUSA. Of course they would not do that. Not even in an email.
Originally Posted by vladimir
Putting low octane fuel, that will start you on bad path and a dealer who suggests that is clearly disinterested and incompetent.
Have you been told that by them?
I don't understand ANYone telling you to disregard the explicit instructions regarding fuel from the manufacturer. I do what I am told, to preserve my investment and get the most performance/fuel efficiency I can. Frankly, I've always skipped right to high test, (which impugnes my observation, "do what the manual says"!), but feel that will compensate partially, for any deficiencies in the gas. Have had good luck so far, but as I've said, I stick to the same station, etc. Difference between mid/high octane is not as much as you'd expect.
probly becuase they/we were trying to help u and was told that it might help by mini ddduuuhhh
Originally Posted by vladimir
I don't understand ANYone telling you to disregard the explicit instructions regarding fuel from the manufacturer. I do what I am told, to preserve my investment and get the most performance/fuel efficiency I can. Frankly, I've always skipped right to high test, (which impugnes my observation, "do what the manual says"!), but feel that will compensate partially, for any deficiencies in the gas. Have had good luck so far, but as I've said, I stick to the same station, etc. Difference between mid/high octane is not as much as you'd expect.
Startup problem gone ! (partially)
My 2005 MCS developed the cold start problem in August (never started on first try, always started on second try, powerless/unresponsive at low revs until engine warms for 2 minutes.) Hey, I could live with it. Well, two days ago I had an oil change done (5,000mi). I used Redline 20-50, with 16oz of MotorSilk, new MINI filter, and reset the adaptive function by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes. Now it starts first time just like new (but it still needs to warm up before it is fully responsive at very low revs).
Been meaning to post about this. My 05 MCS always had the cold start stumble. My 02 Cooper didn't, and our 05 MC cabrio doesn't. My S never stalled, so it wasn't that bad of a stumble. I never tried to fix it cuz it seemed there was no official "fix," and it was a mild case.
About a week ago I bought Jackson Racing plug wires off Moss ($30 and added some color to the engine). I knew they wouldn't change performance, but liked the fact they are red. Lo and behold, I have not had the cold start stumble since! And I start the car at least once a day!
I know, it doesn't make sense!
I'll post any changes to this.
Ken
ps: as of today (12-6-05) my little theory as per above has been proven wrong. ANd i thought I solved a problem with $30 wires!
About a week ago I bought Jackson Racing plug wires off Moss ($30 and added some color to the engine). I knew they wouldn't change performance, but liked the fact they are red. Lo and behold, I have not had the cold start stumble since! And I start the car at least once a day!
I know, it doesn't make sense!
I'll post any changes to this.
Ken
ps: as of today (12-6-05) my little theory as per above has been proven wrong. ANd i thought I solved a problem with $30 wires!
Originally Posted by 4me2drv
Is this only happening with Manual Coopers?
Does anyone with an Automatic Cooper have this issue?
Does anyone with an Automatic Cooper have this issue?
MINI is still developing software for these cars-unfortuately they still haven't come up with a perfect solution, but in the interim a software update will help out. Hope this helps!
Ya know, my '02 use to do the same thing. After I hit a deer in November, had the body work fixed and sent it to MINI of Towsen to have them do some warranty work, it hasn't done it since.
Wish I could tell you why. I still have the rough idle issue after I've been sitting at a stop light for a minute though
!
!
Hmm
I have a 2004 MCS with 16% pulley, Alta intake, Nology HotWires, MSD coil pack, and Denso IK-22s
I have the same problem. The main thing for me is that it doesn't bother me that much normally, but if I rev it when I start in the cold, it's very pronounce after, i.e. it wants to stall and I keep having to rev it until it warms up. If I just start off slowly, it doesn't bother me as much.
Still annoying.
I have the same problem. The main thing for me is that it doesn't bother me that much normally, but if I rev it when I start in the cold, it's very pronounce after, i.e. it wants to stall and I keep having to rev it until it warms up. If I just start off slowly, it doesn't bother me as much.
Still annoying.
I have an '06 MCS....only 3K miles so far & normally...99% of the time you turn the key & fires up quick.....a few times that I have driven short distances, killed it & got back in at does not start immediately...maybe 2-3 tries...always fires up but never had a new car do that!
What's the verdict with this issue?
Has the cold start stutter/stall being solved by MINI? If so what is the most current ECU firmware update?
If anyone has any info or a copy of a technical service bulletin, it will be much appreciated.
Has the cold start stutter/stall being solved by MINI? If so what is the most current ECU firmware update?
If anyone has any info or a copy of a technical service bulletin, it will be much appreciated.
Originally Posted by C4
What's the verdict with this issue?
Has the cold start stutter/stall being solved by MINI? If so what is the most current ECU firmware update?
If anyone has any info or a copy of a technical service bulletin, it will be much appreciated.
Has the cold start stutter/stall being solved by MINI? If so what is the most current ECU firmware update?
If anyone has any info or a copy of a technical service bulletin, it will be much appreciated.
I now solved all those problems, I purchased an '06 MCS. After 3,700 smiles there have been NO issues.
Originally Posted by Bilbo-Baggins
Apparently MINI has solved the problem. My '02 MCS used to do the cold start/stutter/yo-yo/whatever but only after BMW/MINI installed mandatory emissions upgrade to the ECU, after assuring me that it would not cause these issues and informing me that I had NO CHOICE but to have the upgrade installed. Talked about one pi**ed-off customer
I now solved all those problems, I purchased an '06 MCS. After 3,700 smiles there have been NO issues.
I now solved all those problems, I purchased an '06 MCS. After 3,700 smiles there have been NO issues.
Any other '06s have this problem?Some people would complain about reliability, but this is still the better compared to my other car, an Acura TL, or a dressed up Honda Accord. 70,000 miles and two replaced transmissions, the only part of that car that was made in Japan.
I don't know if this has already been mentioned, but has anyone else had problems starting the car in the first place? In my 02 S (36,000mi), the engine occasionally has problems starting when cold. When I turn the key, the motor just won't start. It usually takes 2-3 tries to get it to start. Once the engine is warmed up, it has no problem re-starting. It doesn's stall after being started, it just won't start. What could be causing this problem, and what can I do to fix it?


