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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
Hi all,
Long time since I've posted here but I'm back having recently collected an R56 JCW that's now throwing a P2885 code. I've searched across multiple forums and there's been many different solutions for people, so I figured I'd throw this up here in case anyone's had similar issues and solved it.I only get the code above 4k RPM in sport mode, although it does trigger at higher RPM in 'normal' mode. I've an UltraGauge installed and, although it's not really accurate and I don't know how it works with atmospheric pressure, when the car boosts it gets to maybe 7psi (shows between -8 and -9 or so at idle). I've replaced the diverter valve and added a GFB+ (existing diverter valve was fine with no tears etc). There was a leak in the intercooler pipes that's been fixed and since that, the car seems to pop and bang a whole lot more. I've also discovered a crushed intake pipe with a hole in it:
And it also looks like I've an N18 AEM fitted to an N14 engine:
When I was replacing the diverter valve and had the turbo inlet pipe off, I did notice a small split in the seal, but not sure if this is something that would cause the code:
The hole in the elbow is surely just causing unfiltered air to be sucked in so unlikely to be the cause? Could it be the fact I've the wrong AEM intake fitted? Same as the seal at the end of the turbo intake pipe. I'm thinking it may be an issue with the boost pressure control unit under the inlet manifold, but that may be just because it's the next possible solution on forums I've been reading that doesn't cost a bomb. The car has had a new clutch, timing chain and valve cover since the start of the year. Part of me thinks that while this work was done, a pipe or hose wasn't put back on correctly or tightened fully (see the issue with the intercooler hoses) but, again, I could be just clutching at straws thinking that.
Anyone experienced similar and resolved the issue? Appreciate any input.
N18 AEM on an N14 should work out ok. But, I'm flabbergasted that whoever installed it clamped a crimp into the elbow piece. That is some heavy plastic, and it would have taken some amount of force to get it to crimp like that!
I think your first order of business should be to replace that intake pipe since its cracked. Just a matter of time before it completely obliterates. Its been know to do that, then take out the turbo when it does. Maybe give consideration to purchasing an appropriate N14 intake kit.
I think I'm going to replace the AEM intake with the N14 one anyway, the one fitted is only connect in one of the gromets (technical terms there) but, at the same time, I doubt it'll fix the issue.
With the UltraGauge, what PSI should it show at idle, or is it dependent on the atmospheric pressure? I've read it should pe 12-13PSI but the most the UltraGauge shows is 8psi which would suggest a boost/vacuum leak or failed wastegate? (hopefully not this!) Is there anything I can check on the UtraGauge to diagnose a vacuum leak? Seems to be another common issue that causes the P2885 code.
Your vacuum pressure at idle should be about negative 18-19 inHg (inches of mercury), which is about negative 8-9 psi. So, that sounds normal on your engine.
Being a JCW, I believe you should be boosting about 15 psi, assuming stock controls.
Cheers for the response - I've been through almost every thread that mentions 2885 about 3 times now I just want to be able to enjoy the car without having to keep it under 4k RPM, but the more I look and search, the more it looks like it's going to end up being a turbo replacement or something equally expensive!
I would go through all the vacuum lines from the vacuum pump to the collection chamber to the wastegate and replace them, then see what happens. Maybe you'll get lucky. If that falls short, then replace the boost control solenoid and pressure tank under the intake manifold. Again, maybe you'll get lucky. If that doesn't do it, I think there are some companies that sell just replacement turbine housings. Or, take it as an opportunity to get an uprated turbo.
Just been out for a drive and here's the Ultra Gauge at idle
Max boost value I saw was 8.56psi which is just over half what it should show. I didn't try spots mode, but the car did rev all the way to 6k RPM without throwing the code, and then threw it at approx 5.5kRM. I'll get on to a local specialist and have them replace the vacuum hoses and the boost control solenoid and fingers crossed that sorts things out! In the mean time, I might look at a larger piece of silicone hosing to cover the hole in the elbow on the intake pipe until I get around to ordering a new N14 AEM intake. I'll keep this thread updated to hopefully help others.
Did drop as low as -11, but that was generally after lifting off the throttle. Forgive the silly question (mechanical knowledge isn't my forté!) but does this suggest a possible issue with the vacuum lines or boost pressure control valve?
I fought 2885 and traced it to my wastegate. You should be able to take out the upper Oxygen sensor see if it rattles too much. My car had something like 120,000 miles on it with similar symptoms.
[QUOTE=njaremka;4653367]Your vacuum pressure at idle should be about negative 18-19 inHg (inches of mercury), which is about negative 8-9 psi. So, that sounds normal on your engine.
Being a JCW, I believe you should be boosting about 15 psi, assuming stock controls./QUOTE]
Negative 8-9. I don't think I ever get more than -3 on my 2012 Coupe S. It does have a JB+ not sure if that would change that or not. I will have to take it off this weekend and check that. If it is still -2 or -3 that would indicate a vacuum leak somewhere correct?
Before I added it, I never checked the low side, only boost. Stock was 14-15, with the JB+ I have seen as high as 19.9. 15 - 18 when getting on it, Mid 19's when truly hammering it shifting at 6000+ and taking it to top speed.
Your vacuum pressure at idle should be about negative 18-19 inHg (inches of mercury), which is about negative 8-9 psi. So, that sounds normal on your engine.
Being a JCW, I believe you should be boosting about 15 psi, assuming stock controls.
Negative 8-9. I don't think I ever get more than -3 on my 2012 Coupe S. It does have a JB+ not sure if that would change that or not. I will have to take it off this weekend and check that. If it is still -2 or -3 that would indicate a vacuum leak somewhere correct?
Before I added it, I never checked the low side, only boost. Stock was 14-15, with the JB+ I have seen as high as 19.9. 15 - 18 when getting on it, Mid 19's when truly hammering it shifting at 6000+ and taking it to top speed.
N18 engine at idle has little to no vacuum in the intake manifold due to the VANOS on the intake cam. Once up to operating temperature, the N18 will command throttle wide open, and turn the cam lift down to near zero.
N14 engine does not have the variable lift on the intake cam, so uses the throttle in to control engine air intake. N14 will have vacuum in the manifold at idle at all operating conditions.
Boost curve might be slightly different too between the engines, but I don't have any data to back up my assumptions on that.
I fought 2885 and traced it to my wastegate. You should be able to take out the upper Oxygen sensor see if it rattles too much. My car had something like 120,000 miles on it with similar symptoms.
Hoping it's not a wastegate but the longer it goes on the more I think it'll end up being that. I've ordered a new AEM for the N14 engine which should arrive early next week and I'll get it fitted, although I'd be amazed if that solves my issues. I took the car out yesterday evening to see if it had magically fixed itself () but it hadn't, one thing I did notice is a kind of hissing sound from the drivers side (would be passenger side in the US) towards the bulkhead. Can't help but think it's in my head but at the same time I think that's where the pressure control unit is so I might take a closer look at that when I'm fitting the new intake. I'll keep this thread updated as a lot of threads I'd read on the 2885 error seem to just die a death with few people reporting what solved it for them
Quick update on this. Fitted the N14 AEM intake to the car the Tuesday evening and while doing so I took the opportunity to try look at the boost pressure control valve under the intake manifold but couldn't get a good look at it (I don't think, anyway) Took the car for a drive and while it seems to run smoother and pick up a bit better (this could all be just placebo effect) it still doesn't boost past 7-8 PSI on the UltraGauge and still throws the P2885 code, especially in sport mode.
Next course of action is to get it booked into a specialist and get them to have a look at, and hopefully sort the issue.
Haven't had time to get the JCW in to be looked at for this for various reasons, but it's now back towards to the top of the list (finally) I'll be getting it in to a specialist and having the pressure converter replaced along with the vacuum lines, but, before I do, just a quick query. The car had the timing chain and a new clutch before I bought it and before it had these done it wasn't throwing the codes. In the course of doing these jobs, is it likely a vacuum hose or the like was disconnected and not reconnected? Is there anything I can check quickly from the top to rule out?
Hey, not had much time to even drive the MINI let alone try get this issue sorted but more important issues in life came up with my mother now needing full time care amongst other things, but, over the weekend I fully charged the battery and took the mini out for a spin and realised how much fun it is to drive and that I need to get the finger out so to speak and get this issue sorted, so posting here again to hopefully get some inspiration before it goes into a specialist.
The last time it ran (before Christmas) it ran like a dog, throwing P0300 code on the UltraGauge, misfiring and all but cutting out so, not wanting to cause any further damage I just left it. Fast forward to today, reconnecting the battery and starting it. Again, it misfired, splutterd and cut out, but, when I started it again, it ran absolutely fine, took it on a drive and drove fine also. I think this is early symptoms of the fuel pump going (Previous owner had issues also, documented
) And I was told the fuel pump had been refurbished by this owner before selling it, so I'll likely have it replaced anyway. for peace of mind if nothing else.
I noticed when driving it that the brakes don't seem to be as effective as they should be with the car being as light as it is, but that could be down to the face it's been sitting up for a few months, or could it be an issue with the vacuum system which is also causing the P2885 code? (Clutching as straws here!)
I just want to be able to enjoy the car without having to keep it under 4k RPM, but the more I look and search, the more it looks like it's going to end up being a turbo replacement or something equally expensive!
