This sounds like a possible culprit.

Bad alternator.

Tensioner strut broke>finished off alt.
Alt gave out> broke tensioner strut.

Seems logical.

 

What work has been done so far? When last we left this a number of parts had been ordered, have they been installed and is the knock now persisting afterward?

 

Yes, under the second update noted in bold in the original post.

 

Guys, I have been updating my original post with the work being done and current issues. Please take a look at it again, I am still looking for advice. Thanks.

 

Well, I ordered the tensioner, water pump, gaskets, s/c oil, and the TPE charge pipe because I don’t wanna have to get back in there again.

If this doesn’t fix the car I’m going to brick the throttle and give her one last drive.

 

P1498 not listed in Bentley but elsewhere on the interwebs indicates "post compressor unregulated air" as in intake leak; could be PCV line or something else; not going to be fun finding it

At this point would replace the tensioner - you don't need factory 'genuine MINI' (expensive) replacement just a good aftermarket like INA or Febi Bilstein. Then go front end service mode for supercharger inspection / service, water pump, fuel pressure regulator line, and crankshaft position sensor O-ring, plus if needed intercooler boots, pan gasket and lower engine mount "while you're in there." Fan resistor, hoses and lines as needed while the cooling system is drained.

 

Updated. Bump.

 

Guessing the P1498 and 5E19 are still there, anything others show up on the latest OBD pull?

 

I’ve been getting those two codes since I bought the car. The EML light randomly comes on too.

I haven’t checked for a bit. I’ll figure it out eventually, I’m just frustrated. S/C service/water pump is next, and I got the TPE pipe also.

 

The hose going from the valve cover to the intake was cobbled together from 3 different hoses and inserts at some point, and was cracked in multiple places. I'm replacing that hose.

I serviced the S/C, replaced the gaskets. It had plenty of oil in both sides, the gears were all mint.

I replaced the timing chain tensioner.

I'm doing the A/C clutch/bearing.

I also installed the TPE pipe. Don't 100% love the fitment on it, but its really close.

I'm waiting on the intake>right horn gasket.

Hopefully after all this she doesn't tick so loudly.

 

Serviced the supercharger, it had oil in it that looked pretty clean and there was still plenty.

Replaced the timing chain tensioner.

Replaced the water pump/inspected the gears they looked mint.

Replaced the A/C clutch.

The car is still ticking. It sounds like there’s small marbles in the motor. I’m about at my wits end with this car. It seems like maybe it’s internal to me at this point.

I’m unsure what to do next.

 

Edit: another thought is check upper passenger side motor mount condition, mounting bolts, and engine mount bracket bolts (4). Don't know why but the noise reminded me of that.

Thinking out of the box time. The noise doesn't sound engine rpm related, like bottom or top end. It sounds ancillary (belt driven) or even random, like something down below is loose, really loose.
Non-invasive:
>any difference in noise when you engage / disengage the air conditioning? As in compressor noise?
>any difference made when clutch pedal is pushed in (disengaged) or released out (in neutral)?
>Look under the car on a lift / jacks - engine mounts, transmission bolts, stuff hanging loose etc. Get the stethoscope again and start probing.
Invasive:
>would remove the belt, right side wheel well liner, rotate and shake every pulley in the radial and axial direction - crank, tensioner, idler, supercharger, alternator and AC for play. Recheck torque to spec on everything. If you've already done it, disregard.
>drop pan and look for things that don't belong there - metal bits, babbit etc that might point to (hate to say it) a wiped bearing(s) or internal damage
>front end service mode and pull the supercharger, look inside the top, check for excess play, rattling, things inside that don't belong there either

Might also be time to run it by a good, well -researched and trusted Indy mechanic in your area (not the Stealership obviously).

Other guys please chime in; our friend needs help!

 

I've read this complete thread but may have missed something. The only video I see and hear sounds like knocking but the OP says it's "ticking". Big difference! If ticking, have you checked the Idler pulley? It's a simple, inexpensive but often overlooked item. To eliminate a whole lot of things, try removing the serpentine belt and start the car. ( You can run it off the battery for a short while without hurting anything.) If the ticking is still there, it's internal. If it quits, then it's something driven by the belt.

 

I”ve replacled:

- Belt tensioner
- Crank pulley (ATI 2%)
- Boost pulley (15%)
- Idler pulley
- A/C Clutch
- Alternator
- Serviced S/C
- Water pump
- Boost pipe (TPE)
- Timing chain tensioner
- Spark plugs
- Intercooler couplers
- Multiple Belts

So at this point everything on my belt drive has been replaced, aside from the s/c, but I inspected it. It seems to be in good working order. The rotors look ok and it doesn’t seem like there’s play. I’m pretty sure it’s internal.

I’m unsure if timing chain guides could be that noisy.

The throw out bearing is definitely making a little noise but it’s unrelated to this.

So lifters, rod knock, timing chain guides… I dunno.

 

Bump. Updated the original post. Car is fixed for now.