Hey guys, I just bought a Mini, 2005 R53 6-speed. I need advice.

It started miss firing so I took it to the stealership, they fixed part of my injector harness, and replaced my accessory belt. It ran good after this for a couple weeks.

I noticed today that it was knocking, I looked in the engine bay, and there is something, like a rod with a ball/hole on the end. It's hanging down and almost touching the accessory belt.
I don't think it's supposed to be there, and my car is making all sorts of weird sounds. I'm guessing that the belt has minimal to no tension possibly. I babied the car home and parked it.

UPDATE:

I replaced the tensioner dampener and the intercooler couplers.

The car will start/run/drive but there is some decently loud ticking coming from the lower left of the motor/accessory belt.


UPDATE:

Ladies and Gents, she still sounds like hot trash.

I replaced the following so far.

* 2% ATI Overdrive Pulley (stock seemed fine)
* 15% MWM Boost Pulley
* Idler Pulley
* CCV Valve
* Fuel vac line (Left side of motor>under left IC horn)
* Brand new belt, tensioned properly
* Tensioner dampener
* MSD box grommets
* NGK Iridium plugs (Colder for boost)

I did not replace the tensioner itself.

UPDATE:

I replaced the alternator. It was kind of odd, the car was quiet for about 10 minutes idling. I blipped the throttle a few times and then it started ticking again. It's not as loud as it was before though. I think the alternator may have been contributing.

I used a mechanics stethoscope to try and pinpoint the ticking. It sounds like it’s the belt tensioner, or the water pump/supercharger.

I'm throwing p1498 and 5E19.

I'm thinking belt tensioner next, then maybe the pipe under the S/C, and S/C service.

UPDATE:

Replaced the belt tensioner. Still ticking.

Going to try and get my other car running so I can tear into the supercharger soonish and take my time.

UPDATE:

I ended up replacing everything on the accessory drive. I inspected and serviced the supercharger, replaced all the gaskets, etc. After I put the car back together the car was running really shitty. It was running lean too.

I started looking for a vacuum leak and found that the tube for the map sensor above the thermostat had been repaired with gasket sealant. The sealant had cracked through.

I ordered a bunch more **** and replaced the map sensor and the tube.

The car is running great now, I put 300 miles on it with no dash lights, but it still has a slightly audible tick to it.

I looked at the valvetrain and everything was mint, timing chain guides looked fine, no metal in the oil pan.

I'm thinking that these motors just run a little loud, I read in a few threads that the injectors make noise.

I had another Mini park next to mine and I compared the two. Mine was maybe slightly louder, but they both sounded very similar as far as engine noise. The other Mini had a similar tick to it as well, and I know the timing components were all replaced.

I'm not too worried about it.

Thanks for all the help from everyone, I really appreciate it.

 

It sounds like part of the tensioner- like a shock absorber for when there are sudden changes in engine revs. You can buy a complete tensioner assembly from many suppliers and just the rod from some. I think I'd remove the rod for now or wire it away from the belt. Buy a 15-17% reduction pulley, the right belt for it, and whichever part you want for the tensioner. Then just make all the changes at once. You will need to buy, borrow, or rent a pulley puller and the tensioner release tool to do the job with the least hassle.

 

Do you think its ok to drive the car like that or no?

 

I'd strongly recommend you don't.

Everything is driven off of that belt, including the water pump.

 

Now that I looked at a picture of a stock tensioner, it looks like one of the bolts is missing on the little strut looking thing. This is pretty annoying since I just had that belt fixed by the dealer. I guess I should replace the whole tensioner probably, since the car has 184k on it.

 

Guys this is my daily, do you guys think I can just replace the bolt that fell out for now? I'm guessing I would have to take off the passenger fender liner and motor mount right?

If the tensioner is not broken anyway, does anyone know the size of that bolt and the torque spec? I have a hardware store a few blocks away if its nothing special...

Would I need the special belt tensioner tool thing or could I just use a breaker bar or something?

 

If the rod is OK you can just replace the bolt. You're correct that you should remove the liner to get to the bolt, but when I had to work on mine to add a tensioner safety strap I don't think I removed the actual tension on the tensioner itself- was quite a while ago. You can do a search about alternative ways to release tension if you need to. It's just more of a hassle to get a good leverage point that holds well.

 

Sorry guys, I spoke too soon. I just got outside and really got in there. The strut thing on the tensioner is shot, the bushing is completely missing on one side, and its shot on the other side. Both of the bolts for the tensioner are where they should be.

I ordered an oem strut and some aftermarket bushings for it. I also ordered the belt tool, and some couplers since mine are cracking.

 

Let us know how things work out.

 

You've come to the right place - this board - hopefully never to have to return to that unholy den of iniquity again. Welcome.

 

Thanks guys I will let you know. I’m an old school Nissan guy but I have a bmw 330i that’s been broken for two years… lol. Cars. BMWs, I’m trying to learn these things slowly.

 

Ok guys. I got in there. I replaced the tensioner dampener. I can see one hole on the tensioner and I didn’t mess with that at all. I replaced my intercooler couplers but one of the hard plastic vacuum line fittings broke.

Anyone know what the vacuum line under the left side of the intercooler does. There’s like a little canister it tees into to. It has like a 90 degree rubber boot on the end and it connects to a hard plastic line that looks like it goes to the back of the car. It’s next to the fuel line i believe.

 

13517515137

This is the part number on real oem. It’s part of the fuel tank breather. Can I replace that with a standard vacuum line or do I need to order that part?

 

Believe you can use regular line, but if there's a difference between end size diameters you may need an adapter, appropriately enough available in the "HELP" section of Dorman offerings at most brick and mortar parts stores, i.e. Autozone, NAPA, O'Reilly etc.

The actual part is available from multiple vendors if you end up going that route in the long run

https://www.outmotoring.com/fuel-tan...cuum-pipe.html

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/min...er-13517515137

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...&q=13517515137

 

I’ll order one and replace it later but I have clear blue fuel line that’s about that size so I might just try to bandaid it for now since this is my only running car 🙃

Thank you for the help.

 

I put the car all back together and rigged up a temporary vacuum line.

The only things I replaced were the tensioner dampener and the intercooler boots.

I started it up and it sounds like hot garbage still. It’s hard to describe but it’s ticking a bit and sounds weird. I have no idea what to do now.

Also that plastic thing sticking out of the left side valve cover with the hose going to it is partially broken but the hose is on it. Pvc valve?

The car has an MSD box and it was very loose so I tightened it. Is there a gasket under that thing?

I’m unsure where to begin. 🤦🏼‍♂️

 

Basics
>reverify absolutely everything disconnected got reconnected, electrical connectors, vacuum lines, grounds etc
>recheck battery voltage 12.6 resting, about 14V idle
>pull codes from OBDII to help narrow it down; if you don't have a reader, can borrow / check one out at your local brick and mortar parts store i.e O'Reilly, Autozone, NAPA etc
>if you can, get a video of the car idling / running rough and post, moving around the engine and from different angles; this might help others weigh in

PCV, technically 'CCV' in BMW-speak. If it's 'partially' broken it's all broken. Would replace. One less possible factor.
The vacuum line for it runs under the intercooler / fuel rail area; would inspect for breaks / leaks. Both items available from the vendors.

 

Thanks for the input. Everything is connected properly as I didn’t take much off.

I started the car briefly one more time to try and get a better ear on it.

It will start and run good, but it’s knocking and it’s coming from the lower left. Sounds related to the accessory system. Possibly near the bottom.

 

I updated my original post and still need some advice.

 

As in politics, turns out you're dealing with two faces of the same wretched beast, at least on these cars.

It may or may not be the issue but if it isn't now, sooner or later it will be. Would replace regardless with an ATI or SFI/PRW; the OEM variety are underengineered and prone to early failure.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...oper/year/2006

Mine went at 50K. Behold:





And everyone's favorite Mod MINI video go-by:

 

​​​​​Yep - Daft lad offers some good advice.
I bought my 04 R53 brand new (9.16.03 build date); and had to have the
crank pulley replaced under warranty 3 times in 6 years due to failure. The
dealer replaced the pulley with OEM each time.
I still have the Mini and have been doing my own maintenance, repairs and performance upgrades since 2012. One of the first things I did was ditch that OEM pulley and replaced it with the gel/fluid filled PRW.
Peace of mind. I sleep better at night and drive my Mini with confidence

 

Thats a crappy design, for longevity anyway.

Good job getting into the car and getting after it.

I ordered the ATI crank pulley@2%,15% boost pulley, the idler pulley, and ngk plugs.

I already have the tensioner hockey stick.

Ordered vacuum line as well.

My belt is brand new so I’m gonna re-use it. I read the stock belt is good for that setup.

 

Got those in stock. No aftermarket yet.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/13517515137/

Its just a hard line with two ends. Make sure it seals.

 

Updated the original post and added a video.

Please listen to it and comment if you have any ideas.

Anyone who has heard the timing chain death rattle, I’d especially like your opinion.

As I was watching the “hole” in the tensioner/strut by the spring, I could see it consistently bouncing up and down. I have a feeling it’s supposed to be more smooth than that. Lmk if that’s the case.

I might drain the oil to see if I have any metal shavings in there.

Thanks.

 

One more thing, when I was putting the boost pulley on, and I spun it, and then I spun it back slightly, I heard a light “clunk” in the supercharger. I don’t know if the blades in there would make a noise from that or not, but it did it consistently.

It doesn’t sound like the noise is coming from the supercharger though to me.