transmission issues
transmission issues
I'll preface this by saying I'm in no way, shape or form mechanically inclined (I lean more toward woodworking & home remodeling skills) so all repairs will be through a shop. Purchased a 2011 base Mini (about 61,000 miles now) which had clearly been sitting for at least a couple of years (wires had been chewed through, for example). I didn't expect to drive much & had dental/vision bills totally more than $20K over this year & next, so sold my newer vehicle & picked this up as my first older, used car. However, due to some health issues I've had to drive a lot more than expected (short trips 5-10 miles that I used to walk).
The issue is the transmission-it's rough, especially downshifting. Brought it to a VERY good independent shop that's recommended & learned that unlike my prior vehicles, this isn't one that would have routine maintenance on the transmission (at least not until 100,000, minimum). So to repair this it would need a new transmission at some point, which of course I can't afford. I did/am putting about $2,500 into it for brakes/battery/wiring repair and am having the rear stabilizing fixed (loose). All in, right now this inexpensive car has run me about $12K+ (and I owe over $8K still).
With vehicles being obnoxiously expensive (especially taxes/tags), I was trying to get something relatively low mileage, under $10K so I could cover my medical bills & don't want to go shopping again in 2025 when I've paid all of that off.
Sorry for the long background, but my question is whether I should stick with this car? Any experience on how likely the transmission is going to make it to 100,000 miles (which would still be years down the road as I still don't drive a ton)? I'd hoped to fix it up over time, but wasn't anticipating a significant expense like a transmission anytime soon (I did get it checked out before buying it, fyi).
Thanks for the feedback-I do know this rough shifting is a known issue, fwiw.
The issue is the transmission-it's rough, especially downshifting. Brought it to a VERY good independent shop that's recommended & learned that unlike my prior vehicles, this isn't one that would have routine maintenance on the transmission (at least not until 100,000, minimum). So to repair this it would need a new transmission at some point, which of course I can't afford. I did/am putting about $2,500 into it for brakes/battery/wiring repair and am having the rear stabilizing fixed (loose). All in, right now this inexpensive car has run me about $12K+ (and I owe over $8K still).
With vehicles being obnoxiously expensive (especially taxes/tags), I was trying to get something relatively low mileage, under $10K so I could cover my medical bills & don't want to go shopping again in 2025 when I've paid all of that off.
Sorry for the long background, but my question is whether I should stick with this car? Any experience on how likely the transmission is going to make it to 100,000 miles (which would still be years down the road as I still don't drive a ton)? I'd hoped to fix it up over time, but wasn't anticipating a significant expense like a transmission anytime soon (I did get it checked out before buying it, fyi).
Thanks for the feedback-I do know this rough shifting is a known issue, fwiw.
2009 MCS 6mt here,
I would suggest that you request shop to drain and replace transmission fluid with Mini OE fluid. I'm actually a little surprised independant shop did not reccomend this as a 'first step'.
Good luck,
I would suggest that you request shop to drain and replace transmission fluid with Mini OE fluid. I'm actually a little surprised independant shop did not reccomend this as a 'first step'.
Good luck,
It sounds like adding or replacing the fluid isn't likely to help (again, it's a good independent shop). Also, while I've noticed it's just generally rough, the mechanic noted only the delayed downshifting (so it sounds like R56s are just really rough??) Here's what they indicated:Shifting was not the smoothest when they were new. Changing the fluid and eliminating the suspended friction material often causes diminished performance or total failure of the transmission. Using friction modifiers can improve quality of shifting on worn transmissions, but is really only a "band-aid" repair and will offer a short term solution at best
Recommendation is:
Service AT filter & ATF, recheck operation (might get worse) or rebuild/replace transmission (we recommend driving the vehicle as-is and if transmission performance gets worse, replace or rebuild
transmission).
So of course my big concern is I just took out a 4 year loan on this and a new transmission would be catastrophic and basically the car would be scrap as it'd be more than I owe on the car and I can't afford a second loan to replace the transmission. Seems like now is the time to make a decision while I could sell it? Actually, maybe that's not an option and this might be a moot point.
If it helps, so long as it's unlikely to be catastrophic in the next couple of years, I want to keep it. Right now I just had the suspension repaired and didn't do the AT filter & ATF which would run $834 (and I don't have at the moment, as I've just put $1500 down plus now about $2500 in repairs since I got it a few months ago).
Thanks again
Recommendation is:
Service AT filter & ATF, recheck operation (might get worse) or rebuild/replace transmission (we recommend driving the vehicle as-is and if transmission performance gets worse, replace or rebuild
transmission).
So of course my big concern is I just took out a 4 year loan on this and a new transmission would be catastrophic and basically the car would be scrap as it'd be more than I owe on the car and I can't afford a second loan to replace the transmission. Seems like now is the time to make a decision while I could sell it? Actually, maybe that's not an option and this might be a moot point.
If it helps, so long as it's unlikely to be catastrophic in the next couple of years, I want to keep it. Right now I just had the suspension repaired and didn't do the AT filter & ATF which would run $834 (and I don't have at the moment, as I've just put $1500 down plus now about $2500 in repairs since I got it a few months ago).
Thanks again
I would make sure the mechanic is very familiar with the Aisin trans and the specific fluid leveling method which relies on the fluid being in the proper temp range. Also, even with dropping the pan, a good amount of old fluid remains in the torque converter so a couple of additional fluid drains are necessary if you want to increase the ratio of new fluid in the mix. It’s usually recommended to take short drives between the changes and a pan drop isn’t necessary for the follow up changes.
This site has a lot of good Aisin technical info available at the bottom of the page that might be relevant for the transmission in your MINI: https://www.sonnax.com/units/493-tf-60sn
This page in particular deals with adjustments on the valve body and the various shifting issues for needing an adjustment: https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...n-fwd-6-speeds
Depending on your comfort level on using non-MINI fluid, Aisin has their own branded fluid and Toyota, who owns Aisin, sells JWS3309 spec fluid at their dealerships for a lot cheaper than MINI.
This site has a lot of good Aisin technical info available at the bottom of the page that might be relevant for the transmission in your MINI: https://www.sonnax.com/units/493-tf-60sn
This page in particular deals with adjustments on the valve body and the various shifting issues for needing an adjustment: https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...n-fwd-6-speeds
Depending on your comfort level on using non-MINI fluid, Aisin has their own branded fluid and Toyota, who owns Aisin, sells JWS3309 spec fluid at their dealerships for a lot cheaper than MINI.
Drain and add fluid
2nd the motion on draining adding fluid. Poop on buying all of this special, "most goodest" ATF. Go to Orileys or reputable auto parts store and ask for a Mini compatible ATF.
Dobthe work yourself. Drive up on a few 2x4 use metric Allen wrench to remove plug (can't remember size 8?). After it starts draining use a 5 mm Allen wrench and stick up in the hole into a plastic tube, which is a spill over tube designed to hold fluid level (above top of tube). Rotate Allen headed plastic tube, counter clockwise (lefty loosey) until tube comes out. It may be that no liquid comes out when plug is removed. You can't be sure how low it is and may be the reason your, tranny is sluggish. However, drain with tube removed. You add fluid through the drain plug after installing tube. Threads only allow to screw in so far. It should drain around 2 qts. Buy 3 qts and fill util fluid starts over flowing your 5/16" fill tubing and install plug. Start car and allow it to warm up. Remove plug with engine running and allow excess fluid to drain, or add if no fluid comes out. Even with car leaning the level will be close enough. Test drive.
If you can't do this simple procedure you should sell the mini and buy a Toyota.
You have asked for advice. This is a 30 or 40 dollar step that may correct your issue. The sluggish tranny sounds like it's low of ATF
Dobthe work yourself. Drive up on a few 2x4 use metric Allen wrench to remove plug (can't remember size 8?). After it starts draining use a 5 mm Allen wrench and stick up in the hole into a plastic tube, which is a spill over tube designed to hold fluid level (above top of tube). Rotate Allen headed plastic tube, counter clockwise (lefty loosey) until tube comes out. It may be that no liquid comes out when plug is removed. You can't be sure how low it is and may be the reason your, tranny is sluggish. However, drain with tube removed. You add fluid through the drain plug after installing tube. Threads only allow to screw in so far. It should drain around 2 qts. Buy 3 qts and fill util fluid starts over flowing your 5/16" fill tubing and install plug. Start car and allow it to warm up. Remove plug with engine running and allow excess fluid to drain, or add if no fluid comes out. Even with car leaning the level will be close enough. Test drive.
If you can't do this simple procedure you should sell the mini and buy a Toyota.
You have asked for advice. This is a 30 or 40 dollar step that may correct your issue. The sluggish tranny sounds like it's low of ATF
Btw
Your mechanic indi acted correctly on changing fluid for older American auto trannies. This is not one of those cars. It's aa mini and they are a little finicky, but the tra NY should not be an issue on this 2011. Even 100K plus is fine. They should 200K miles.
I appreciate the reply and info, but could do without the snark. I'm not a lazy person. I Sold. My. Car. (2020 Ford Escape Titanium that was the nicest car I've ever had) to pay down unexpected medical bills (not covered by insurance even though I work full time & have insurance through my employer) and bought this car because it was something I could afford. If I sell this I'll be without a car and would have to do Lyft or rent an hour car to get by. This isn't just a toy or an extra car for me. This is something I need, and I need it for a few years until I can get back on my feet physically and financially. So I can't just do "easy" mechanical work nor can I just "go buy a Toyota" and I'm trying to figure out if it's likely to last at least a few years to get me through the situation I'm in.
Having said that, I've only ever had a few auto transmissions in my life (always got manual as they were less expensive) and have never had a car run this rough, particularly on the downshift. It does sound like it's not a major issue, so I'm grateful for that! Will see if I can find a local handyman to drain and add fluid.
Having said that, I've only ever had a few auto transmissions in my life (always got manual as they were less expensive) and have never had a car run this rough, particularly on the downshift. It does sound like it's not a major issue, so I'm grateful for that! Will see if I can find a local handyman to drain and add fluid.
Trending Topics
no snark intended
I was trying to reassure you that YOU could do the work. It was sarcasm at the end. If this procedure is too difficult, you should go green, sell your car and buy a bicycle ... more sarcasm.
Any of us that own an older Mini have spent too much mony to go back. That's why I wnet into such detail why You CAN do the work. Easy Peesey. it's a one wrench job.
Any of us that own an older Mini have spent too much mony to go back. That's why I wnet into such detail why You CAN do the work. Easy Peesey. it's a one wrench job.
Last edited by Briscoec; Aug 5, 2022 at 07:51 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Nick brungard
General MINI Talk
34
May 11, 2016 08:28 AM
Laurendoodler
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
8
May 10, 2010 06:50 PM





