Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Jack Support Points for Engine Mounts Replacement

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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 02:49 PM
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wanderlust360's Avatar
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Jack Support Points for Engine Mounts Replacement

I am planning to replace the 2 engine mounts and transaxle mount in the hopes of reducing vibrations all around the dashboard and cabin. This 2010 R56 Mini Cooper S has almost 90,000 miles on it, so probably about time. The replacement steps seem relatively straightforward, but I wanted to confirm the proper jack support points for the engine and transmission. Is putting the jack under the passenger side oil pan for the engine, and under the driver's side transmission fluid pan the correct procedure? Please see picture below. I am just a bit nervous having either engine or transmission fall down on my garage floor Any tips would be greatly appreciated!



 
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 04:41 PM
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When I'm doing work on the motor of any sort I place a flat piece of wood on the floor jacks for a buffer.
Then I raise or lower the motor to my liking. Don't forget to use your jack stands under the jacking points
of the vehicle. Also source that oil drip I see there.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Yoshimura 1
When I'm doing work on the motor of any sort I place a flat piece of wood on the floor jacks for a buffer.
Then I raise or lower the motor to my liking. Don't forget to use your jack stands under the jacking points
of the vehicle. Also source that oil drip I see there.
Thanks I will use a piece of wood in between the jack and the locations indicated in red on the picture. That oil leak is still a mystery to me (I recently replaced both the vacuum pump and oil filter housing gasket so not sure what else this could be). Hopefully I will be able to get a better look once the car is jacked up.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 05:01 PM
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https://www.bmwrepairguide.com/mini-...er-all-models/

try this link above, should help out a lot. For the lower engine mount it’s the easiest. Jack car up, place on stands, use a small or shallow 16mm socket to remove the 2 bolts, mount should just fall out, replace mount, torque bolts, you are done. Simplest mod to do.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 05:11 PM
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Good detailed illustration pics
 
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Old Apr 26, 2021 | 05:43 PM
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Great howto in the link.

Is it worth doing the lower mount without also doing the upper mount?

Next question: opinions on installing Powerflex lower engine mount bushings rather than replacing with a stock mount? Will poly business transmit more vibration to the dash? Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2021 | 09:19 AM
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Upgrading the lower mount with a Powerflex polyurethane insert can be a good idea, and is quite easy to do. The stock mount is very floppy and lets the engine move around a bit too much even when new. The insert makes the car feel more solid when you're coming on/off power, but it does slightly increase vibration at idle.

https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...ng-insert-2241

They have three stiffnesses: black race (which I'd never use on a street car), yellow street, and red, the softest, for automatic transmissions (which tend to vibrate more). I put the red on my wife's automatic R56 and it's a nice improvement in feel. Vibrates a bit more at idle, especially when cold, but it's not that bad you get used to it.

The upper mount only needs replacing if it has gone bad: I'd check it for play with a pry bar and if it looks okay I wouldn't bother messing with it.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 07:25 AM
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My own rule is to replace engine mounts and suspension bushings around the five year timeframe. The mount on the trans side transmits a lot of NVH when aged out. Motor side is less problematic.
 
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