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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
I am Happy to make my first post here I hope anyone can help me.
I have r56 Cooper S won’t start but crank without problème I can feel and see the engine hesitate I can see the gauge level up and enginewant to start but no real and concret start. We connected ista D and no fault code.. only few battery management and tension too low but it’s not this my problème.
anyone know this ? Can be the high fuel pump problem ?
I checked Throttle is good I can sound it when I push gas pedal. I can see fuel in spark hole and smell it.
Car don't start with fluid starter too. Compression loosing can be head gasket ?
Regards
Seems unlikely to me that a head gasket failure would cause loss of compression in all four cylinders. I wonder if your timing chain slipped/jumped a tooth. I would probably check timing as a next step. How was the car running prior to the no-start situation?
Seems unlikely to me that a head gasket failure would cause loss of compression in all four cylinders. I wonder if your timing chain slipped/jumped a tooth. I would probably check timing as a next step. How was the car running prior to the no-start situation?
can be timing chain jump ?
before this I run good and I loose one day performance. Idle good but can’t rev. And finally can’t start.
Being all 4 cylinders have low compression it does sound like a timing issue. Not impossible but highly unlikely the head gasket would let go in all cylinders at the same time unless like all the head bolts are loose. I do find it suspicious that 3 out of 4 cylinders are all 85 psi. Personally if I were doing the compression check I would have to redoing the test. I would think I must have done something wrong to have those numbers.
Being all 4 cylinders have low compression it does sound like a timing issue. Not impossible but highly unlikely the head gasket would let go in all cylinders at the same time unless like all the head bolts are loose. I do find it suspicious that 3 out of 4 cylinders are all 85 psi. Personally if I were doing the compression check I would have to redoing the test. I would think I must have done something wrong to have those numbers.
i wrote 85 psi but it’s maybe 5-10 psi range between.
for you can be timing chain jump ? Because I can see camshaft moving so i don’t think it’s complete failure.
If the timing chain tensioner or the plastic guides failed you can definitely jump timing. Check out pelican parts, they have a bunch of how to articles.
If the timing chain tensioner or the plastic guides failed you can definitely jump timing. Check out pelican parts, they have a bunch of how to articles.
dumb question, but still no codes?
Wouldn't timing throw a code? perhaps its crank or cam sensors sending incorrect information but this should send a code to.
But I would certainly check timing, its easy if you have the tools.
I think one of your cam sprockets has slipped. The square sections of the cams (circled in red) should be parallel to each other. If you have access to cam timing tools, both cam locks should slip into place and be flat against the cylinder head surface within a few mm. Visually, they appear to be off by quite a bit.
I agree it looks like the timing may have jumped, I noticed the writing on the camshafts is not lined up either. the one on the right is almost straight up and the left is rotated farther down.
The upper guide looks fairly new not dark brown. Was the timing chain and guides replaced recently?
is that a sheared off valve cover bolt between cylinder 3 and 4 also? if it is, you need to get that out and replaced or you will never get a good seal on your valve cover also, and just lead to vacum problems.
I think one of your cam sprockets has slipped. The square sections of the cams (circled in red) should be parallel to each other. If you have access to cam timing tools, both cam locks should slip into place and be flat against the cylinder head surface within a few mm. Visually, they appear to be off by quite a bit.
Wow yeahhhh I was not see...
oh my god.
irs a big problem ? This can explain was compression is low all cylinder.. and don’t start feel hesitate to start..
next step is too fix this or need to remove for check other problème ?
I agree it looks like the timing may have jumped, I noticed the writing on the camshafts is not lined up either. the one on the right is almost straight up and the left is rotated farther down.
The upper guide looks fairly new not dark brown. Was the timing chain and guides replaced recently?
i can’t tell you if changed recently I don’t have his information. But yes looks like not old...
If timing is off don't try to start it until you get the timing reset. Your engine is called an Interference engine, meaning that the pistons will impact the intake/exhaust valves if your timing is off far enough, and looks like yours is very close if not.
If you get the tool (can be found on ebay easy), get your timing re aligned. (can find instructions here, or pelicanparts website.),also with the valve cover off, and timing reset, manually turn the engine via the CRANK SHAFT bolt, (you will learn where this is doing the timing) and see if all valves actuate correctly, you will notice if they dont. (you'll need a buddy) Then run another compression test, if your still seeing it off, on one or more, you will need to do a more indepth examine of your valves. which requires you to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Good luck.
Timing off that far is certainly not helping your car.
