Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

1st gen tail light help needed

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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 12:12 PM
  #1  
cotenseto's Avatar
cotenseto
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1st gen tail light help needed

Hi everyone,

I have an 05 R52 S and the left assembly went completely out. As anyone who has tried to take out the rear tail lamp on the vert knows it's a real pain in the rear, but I got it out, and the bottom bulb (of 3) clearly had a blown filament. I replaced it, re-assembled, and nothing lights up. Connected all wires.

Any idea? It seems the top 2 bulbs are fine (filaments intact) and I don't see any lose wires or connection issues that are blatantly apparent.

The circuit board itself seems totally fine. I can't physically see an issue.

Before I start buying random parts, is there any easy way to diagnose this problem? I saw ECS has the circuit board for like $22 which isn't bad, I just hate to buy it without knowing the circuit board is bad since it may just be a waste of money. The CHMSL and the right light are working fine.

Thanks!

c
 
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 01:10 AM
  #2  
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nd-photo.nl
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Did you check the fuse(s)?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by nd-photo.nl
Did you check the fuse(s)?
& check the plugs for 12V.

MINIs have a history of defective bulb sockets melting. Be sure the contacts are clean & bright & the bulbs installed correctly. It's probably wise to replace all the bulbs while you have everything apart.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by nd-photo.nl
Did you check the fuse(s)?
I looked in the fuse panel and it wasn't easily apparent what fuse was for rear lights. I pulled any fuse that looked like it might be lights and they all seemed fine. Is there definitely a fuse for the rear lights? (And if so, any idea where it is in the panel?) Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MVPeters
& check the plugs for 12V.

MINIs have a history of defective bulb sockets melting. Be sure the contacts are clean & bright & the bulbs installed correctly. It's probably wise to replace all the bulbs while you have everything apart.
Thanks. I assume you mean check with a multimeter? I don't have one (embarrassing) but can get one. When you say plugs do you mean the wiring harness that plugs into the assembly? It's really only one piece with like a molded nylon connector on it that has like 6 pin holes but only 5 pins.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 08:25 AM
  #6  
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You can get a simple tester very cheaply - it looks like a screwdriver with a pointed tip, a bulb in the transparent handle & a wire with a ground clip on it. Clip the clip to a good ground & stick the pointy end gently into the connector - the bulb in the handle should light up.
My Haynes manual doesn't seem to be very accurate, but it looks like any green + tracer wire should be 12V. Brown is ground.
You'll need the side lights, ignition & directionals all on & the brake pedal pressed to do a full test.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 08:37 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by MVPeters
You can get a simple tester very cheaply - it looks like a screwdriver with a pointed tip, a bulb in the transparent handle & a wire with a ground clip on it. Clip the clip to a good ground & stick the pointy end gently into the connector - the bulb in the handle should light up.
My Haynes manual doesn't seem to be very accurate, but it looks like any green + tracer wire should be 12V. Brown is ground.
You'll need the side lights, ignition & directionals all on & the brake pedal pressed to do a full test.
Thanks! I'll see if I can borrow one from a friend since Radio Shack no longer exists haha. Appreciate the response!
 
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 10:23 AM
  #8  
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From: Melbourne, FL
no fuse for the tail lights on GEN1 as they run thru the GCU .... most items under GCU control rely on it for fuse and relay functionality ... (looking at GEN1 Haynes for hardtop . . )

did this work before you disassembled to change bulbs?

does the other side work? <you said yes>

are you manual or automatic tranny (there are wiring difference in the backup lights ....)

heard of Harbor Freight? You can often get a super cheapo volt ohm meter for just a couple of dollars .... sometimes FREE with a coupon . . .
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63759.html
 

Last edited by Capt_bj; Dec 9, 2020 at 10:43 AM.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 11:26 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by cotenseto
Hi everyone,

I have an 05 R52 S and the left assembly went completely out. As anyone who has tried to take out the rear tail lamp on the vert knows it's a real pain in the rear, but I got it out, and the bottom bulb (of 3) clearly had a blown filament. I replaced it, re-assembled, and nothing lights up. Connected all wires.

Any idea? It seems the top 2 bulbs are fine (filaments intact) and I don't see any lose wires or connection issues that are blatantly apparent.

The circuit board itself seems totally fine. I can't physically see an issue.

Before I start buying random parts, is there any easy way to diagnose this problem? I saw ECS has the circuit board for like $22 which isn't bad, I just hate to buy it without knowing the circuit board is bad since it may just be a waste of money. The CHMSL and the right light are working fine.

Thanks!

c
FWIW when working for MINI often times would see blown bulb from a bad bulb circut bulb carrier....replacing both was required. And while there, check the rear convertible rubber/chrome belt line for cracking and the foam backing seal for the light assembly making sure no moisture is getting in there.

When the belt line in the back is cracking/not sealing properly moisture back there is a huge problem.....
 
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 12:00 PM
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 12:10 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Eurothrasher
FWIW when working for MINI often times would see blown bulb from a bad bulb circut bulb carrier....replacing both was required. And while there, check the rear convertible rubber/chrome belt line for cracking and the foam backing seal for the light assembly making sure no moisture is getting in there.

When the belt line in the back is cracking/not sealing properly moisture back there is a huge problem.....
It was working before, and stopped. My rubber seals aren't mint but it was dry as a bone in there. My car is garage kept and almost never driven in the rain and only hand washed (no high pressure sprays). Any thoughts on how to tell if the circuit board is the issue? I know they aren't super pricey (I saw for like $22 + ship) but I just hate to buy something if it's not the problem. When I look at the circuit board and the 3 bulb sockets, everything looks good. I don't see corrosion or dirt or anything eroded at all. And all my wires seem good. I still didn't get the multi tester but gonna try to order one this week if I can't get a loaner. Thanks!
 
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