Bad wastegate, bad wastegate actuator, or bad turbo
Bad wastegate, bad wastegate actuator, or bad turbo
Testing a 2013 Mini Cooper S Wastegate. Dealership claims it is a bad turbo, however, the car drives great and pulls hard. I get a check engine light when coming off a stop light. Can't read the check engine code. At 10" of vacuum the wastegate is sealed tight. The wastegate seems to stick if I release the vacuum pressure quickly. If I release the vacuum slowly, the wastegate releases smoothely. Is it bad wastegate or bad wastegate actuator.
If you have a code, I would get that read ASAP, as this will direct your efforts much better than trying to throw logic at the car.
I would expect a bad actuator to leak vacuum. Yours seems to hold it pretty well.
I would expect a worn shaft in the turbo housing to either be sticky or lose.
Think about normal operation on the actuator. The engine has a vacuum pump which creates a vacuum on a receiving tank. There is a solenoid that either adds or removes vacuum from the actuator. The wastegate is either open or closed, nothing in between. If you remove vacuum and it sticks, you’ll get a fault.
I would expect a bad actuator to leak vacuum. Yours seems to hold it pretty well.
I would expect a worn shaft in the turbo housing to either be sticky or lose.
Think about normal operation on the actuator. The engine has a vacuum pump which creates a vacuum on a receiving tank. There is a solenoid that either adds or removes vacuum from the actuator. The wastegate is either open or closed, nothing in between. If you remove vacuum and it sticks, you’ll get a fault.
I tried pulling the code but my code reader did not find any despite the check engine light. Also, the check engine light was only on the tachometer. Not on the center dash.
Update:
I realized that I was closing the release valve on the vacuum pump with my finger causing the jerkyness of the wastegate. I also removed the diverter valve and found a 1/2" tear in the diaphram.
Update:
I realized that I was closing the release valve on the vacuum pump with my finger causing the jerkyness of the wastegate. I also removed the diverter valve and found a 1/2" tear in the diaphram.
Sounds much better than having the
stealership replace your turbo on your
dime unnecessarily.
(“... oh, and we put a new diverter
valve in gratis, ‘cause it was old anyway.
Runs good with the new turbo, don’t it?”)
stealership replace your turbo on your
dime unnecessarily.
(“... oh, and we put a new diverter
valve in gratis, ‘cause it was old anyway.
Runs good with the new turbo, don’t it?”)
I tried pulling the code but my code reader did not find any despite the check engine light. Also, the check engine light was only on the tachometer. Not on the center dash.
Update:
I realized that I was closing the release valve on the vacuum pump with my finger causing the jerkyness of the wastegate. I also removed the diverter valve and found a 1/2" tear in the diaphram.
Update:
I realized that I was closing the release valve on the vacuum pump with my finger causing the jerkyness of the wastegate. I also removed the diverter valve and found a 1/2" tear in the diaphram.
The diverter valve was probably your issue.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
blu3town
Stock Problems/Issues
8
May 12, 2019 07:19 PM
brandonwirtz
Drivetrain (Cooper S)
24
Aug 29, 2013 11:37 AM
Theo_207RC
R60/R61 Stock Problems/Issues
6
Sep 26, 2012 05:36 AM









