I got the ATP GT28RS Turbo Kit installed, sort of. I read that the internal wastegate works in reverse of the OEM. The Vacuum line being connected provides the wrong "signal" for the Garret. Also there is no Electronically activated BOV.

I got around the BOV throwing a Check Engine Light or at minimum a Check with no light, by attaching the old BOV so the engine could pretend it as managing the Blow off / Check Valve.

How has anyone else gotten the Vacuum line to "work" the right way? I don't mind buying a Boost Controller but as this is the first car I have done work on that wasn't a Naturally aspirated, non-ecu car (I tend to work on classic American) I am at a loss as to how a Boost Controller is going to manage a vacuum line controlled by the ECU.

The prospect of doing something like an M800 ECU replacement is a bit beyond what I was hoping to do. I'm a software guy enough at my day job, I like hardware as a hobby, so figuring out the M800 doesn't really appeal to me. (unless they decide they need to send me one as a review unit for my Youtube channel)

Just a few of my videos in case you are curious. Ones for the Garret, and my 3 inch custom exhaust coming soon.

 

You need to contact member "oldbrokenwind". He is on NAM and MA.

He is the only other person I know with an R56 in North America that has a GT28RS. He went through countless pains to make it work somewhat, but it works.

 

Getting your Garrett to work properly is going to take some serious tuning, preferably on a dyno. I suggest you take a look at my "garage", I've documented a lot of my mods in a posted journal. Go for the last version for latest updates --- and best of luck.

OK, it's not in my "garage". Try this link ---
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...a-stuff-2.html

 

Thanks!

I found the line. I have a manual boost controller coming from Amazon. I will do this shortly, and make a vid. Let me know if you want credit as old broken wind or a name.

Oddly I don't think I am going to have much trouble after I get this bit done. If I limit revs to 6000 she runs better than stock, both in MPGs and 0 to 60. Slower 0-30 but a joy on the highway until I hit 6200 Reps at which point she whistles and burbles.

I think once the wastegate is working right she will be great. Will need a tune to make her a 300 HP beast, but for daily drivin I think she will be fine.

 

Takes a lot more than a big turbo to get 300 HP! And, once you get used to what you have, you'll probably want more --- human nature. There have been a few people out there that have tried the GT28RS. When they can't get a satisfactory tune, they give it up and either sell it all, or change back to a smaller turbo. I'm still waiting for an opportunity to get another dyno tune --- personal problems preventing overnite travel to a tuner.

Would you consider letting us know what else, if anything, you've upgraded? A big Garrett and 3" exhaust is a huge investment to be all by itself.

 

Everything :-)

7x11 Cylindrical K&N, AEM Pressure box, Delete of Turbo Resonator, FMIC that is 5x the volume of stock, Diverter to grab air an deflect it at the FMIC. Access Port from Alta, 3 inch exhaust with High Flow cat and 22" muffler. Wider Stickier tires all around. Custom Fab Intake Pipes. Functional Scoop/ram.

Sure I am forgetting some things.

I don't think I will end up going back. I like the better MPG of late boost. Like the Get up and go of big turbo.

Wish ATP had given better instructions. Your hints and the Mini Service manual, and the Garret diagrams I found have me with enough info I should be able to get rid of the CEL's for everything except the MinPress when you don't down shift from 6th to 5th when passing on the highway.

I think I can get a tuner to fix that, If not I'll do a Voltage modulator so I can lie to the ECU to solve that. I seem to have to work pretty hard to get it, 40 in 6th gear, and 80% throttle.

And I was kidding about 300 HP. I'm shooting for a very drivable daily with 250-270.

If I get a third car I might go whole hog and drop all the interior, and upgrade the heads/rods and build a 500HP monster, but right now I just want a commuter that truly smokes the Porsches and M3's that I'm only outpacing now.

 

Thanx for the update. There aren't a lot of tuners out there that work with the AP. I'm planning on a trip to Cobb eventually --- a lot easier for them to "unlock" the existing maps for updating, than starting over with a new tuner.

I'll bet you had fun with the "custom fab intake pipes". That was one of my hardest mods.

Eventually, you'll get used to downshifting with hard acceleration. I found that "pedal-to-the-metal" works best when starting in the turbo boost range --- above 3500rpm.

Be sure to let us know how your MBC works for you --- boost settings and performance.

Have fun ---

 

 

Got the Boost Controller in place. Set such that she hits 19.5 PSI at 7000 RPM and 20 at 7500 (I don't hit 7500 RPM much)

The garret is screaming from 4000-7000 RPMs. But you need to hit the up shifts just right or you you pay a stiff penalty for hitting 3500 rpm's instead of 4000 in the next gear.

0-60 is faster if I "drop the hammer" but slower if I run off the light the way I would have previously (1000 RPM and let the cluch out and go)

60 to 100 is a LOT faster.

I think to make this as drivable as I would like she will need some higher compression pistons and better valve springs, injectors, and higher pressure oil pump so I can raise red line to 9000.

That's the trouble with these projects... $3k in upgrades makes you want $6k more.

 

If you haven't yet tried, Alta (Jeff Perrin) did a great remote tune for me. Took a lot of data logging but the results are worth it. Never tried the different AP "stage" tunes, I went straight to a dyno, then remote tunes for added mods. Nothing but praise for Alta and Cobb.

Would you care to update your gallery / garage? I'd like to be on the lookout for you and yours. I'm claiming "One of, if not THE baddest Mini in Northern NV" on our local club membership list. Your numbers are looking very respectable!

 

Alta told me they couldn't tune for this turbo. They also wanted to charge my friend who has every alta accessory on the planet, including their turbo for a stage 4 tune.

So far every dealing I have had with Alta has been negative. Christina has screwed up every order I have had, and promised to ship things which never materialized. Which is why all my Youtube videos with their products are just me, I would book the people and nothing would show up.

I'm not loving the Garret. Even with my much wider, much stickier 215s at 18x8x40 from Continental, I can't put down the power if I hit the throttle with the turbo spinning, and if I start low enough that I don't just do a burn out, (or use Traction control) I'm too far from the turbo to get going.

So I went from 4.9s 0-60 to closer to 7.1 0-60.

I need a spot to really race my 0-100 but I don't do that, as often as I Sprint to 60.

I think I could get there faster if I went from second, but I'd probably leave my flywheel spread across the pavement.

I'm not hitting anywhere near the potential of this turbo. I hear the waste gate almost as soon as she spools, 4200 RPM.

She'd be happy to give me 25PSI at 9000 RPM's but I think my 0-60 would benefit more from 4 psi at 2500 RPMs.

 

Did you do the videos about the intercooler, best mods, and the rubber stripping?

 

Yep, and swapping the Stereo, and there is one on another channel about swapping the air filter.

I have quite a few more coming.

 

If Garret is not the way to go.. what is a turbo upgrade which is the best way to go? I would like 230whp if at all possible without have the worrries of blowing my head gasket etc..

Drivable yet a invisible monster!!!

 

230whp? Not positive about this, but I think you could do that with a JCW turbo or maybe a hybrid, along with stage 3 mods and tune. Might want to get WMI injection too, I've read alot about it and it seems good for power along with it stopping carbon buildup

 

Ok cool. I have already upgraded my intercooler, ECU Flashed and Spark plugs upgrade.

I have also ordered the NM Hi Intake.... but will change it out for the AEM intak. Along with the turbo Charge and Discharge piping, torque arm bushing and Akrapolvic DP. Just trying to decide which turbo to go with to do the entire install at once.

Also orderd the brake kit from Outmotoring which will be added at the same time.

I hope when I get my turbo narrowed down and install I will see some really good numbers and performance changes!! I will keep NA posted for sure..

 

You might want to look into shops that will do a hybrid turbo. I know Gpop, not sure about others. But you will need a reflash with all of that, and if you decide to add WMI that requires a retune also. You should start a new thread asking how to get to 230whp, I'm sure others have done it

 

I agree. I am working with PAW Motor Sports Miami. I'm sure I will be happy with what in our pot of stew! Just can't wait to return home to drive my lil bullet!!

 

Here are my thoughts on just the install portion of a GT28RS. Check out post #124 in this thread --- https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...s-started.html

Then, if your tune (assuming you can get one) doesn't eliminate the P2884 / P2885 codes this turbo induces, you'll need a way to reset the CEL. I use the AP. Brandonwirtz seems happy with his big Garrett. You need to decide if you can live with the un-tuned issues he's having.

I've seen lots of praise for the GPOP upgrade. There should be no need for a turbo capable of 20+ PSI boost, unless you have a JCW. When I asked a tuner about higher boost at low RPM (3K), a smaller Garrett was suggested, GT2560R. I haven't tried it, YET, but I would expect the same install issues! I've also heard good things about the Evolve tuning process, but I know nothing about it. Tuning will be your biggest problem, no matter which after-market turbo you choose.

And finally, a plug for a vendor --- if you get into building your own air intake system, Saikou Michi will fab metal tee fittings per your design. This is in addition to his OCC (Dual & Single) business. Metal tee's helped cut down a lot of hose clamps, and they take less total space than my original connections. Much cleaner install! Check out a couple of the pics in my "garage".

 

I am going to get my tune August 17 at Ziptie in Utah.

I have most my issues resolved. I needed to make a custom heatshield after the GT28RS melted my valve covers... (why aren't these aluminum?)

With a boost controller and everything hooked up I LOVE the setup. I smoke cars at high way speed, and she is a lot of fun to drive.

Makes the Carbon Fiber hood go as fast as she looks. (long story)

I will have videos up after I get back from Utah, and will let you know if they can get my Min/Max press control CEL's to go away, and if they can tell the traction control that I'm not slipping my engine is just that torquey.

 

Be sure to let us know how Ziptie treated you, dyno results and all. I'll be looking for my next dyno tune this Fall, and they're about the same distance as Cobb So Cal --- the only other AP Mini tuner I know of, within a reasonable driving distance.

 

Cobb SoCal doesn't tune Minis anymore despite what the Cobb site says. I would have gone there since I get to San Diego a lot.

 

So wheres the closest place to get a tune from SoCal?

 

August 17 came and went --- how did the tune go?

 

I recognized you at this point. I've seen your videos. You have a lot of creativity and drive to do these mods and it is tough to watch you hit these roadblocks. [It does help guys like me avoid them though, so thank you much for that!] Measure twice and cut once my friend. Best of luck!