Hi - I have searched and seen many, many possible answers and would be grateful for any educated guesses with the attached "Live Data."

2010 Mini S, 70k miles

Engine has been stalling, with no discernable pattern. Driving home yesterday, it stalled - it feels like it gets bogged down. Feels like no fuel (or too much?), but all other systems are functioning. The engine goes to 0 rpm while the power steering, brakes, everything, are fully functional. Just peacefully coast to a stop... Tried to turn it over, the engine is cranking, but does not start. Finally, after waiting for about 20 minutes, it will start.

If I saw any pattern, it was at low RPM every time it stalled, I was pushing the accelerator, and it was about to downshift when it stalled. When I purposefully ran it at higher RPM's (4k and above), it did not stall. When it does stall, it almost feels like a 2-cycle engine right after a cold start and you try to gun it too quickly, if that makes sense?

Some more clues?:

• Just replaced the Valve Cover (& PCV). The car had stalled one time before replacing the valve cover. Has stalled several times since the replacement.
• Right after the VC replacement, I got the only CEL, a P1338 and it stalled. Pulled out the Camshaft Sensor, put it back in, and it was good to go. Code cleared.
• Last time it stalled, but not this most recent, I got the yellow dash engine light, but no CEL. If I recall, again, I pulled out the Camshaft Sensor, put it back in, and the light cleared.
• No indicator lights at all yesterday - it stalled 4 times in 4 miles coming home.
• Compression in the cylinders is good, spark plugs are new. No sign of oil/coolant contamination.

I have already ordered a new Camshaft Sensor. My inexperienced gut is pointing to the HPFP? But, I have Live Data from my BlueDriver reader - the only column that I understand is the RPM. Hopefully, someone will see something obvious?

Thanks in advance - this is a great community!

 

It looks like you have been thorough. Tough without and codes pointing you in a direction. Perhaps the PCV vent tube from the valve cover to the intake manifold may be cracked. Mine never through a code - just drove terribly. Also, sometimes the MAF can go bad w/o codes in my experience. I would check these can the timing chain tensioner. Have you replaced your's with the newest version? Is it torqued correctly? Mine backed out and caused rough running / oil leak too. Let us know what you find.

 

Hmmm, Lancaster - all good thoughts. The car starts and idles strong and smooth from cold, and runs well - when it is running. It's binary. From my very limited experience, vacuum, timing chain and MAF would all affect smooth idle and would retard the start?

Timing chain has been top of mind with me, knowing the issues of the N14 engine, but checking that is above my pay grade... haha

 

IF you have replaced the valve cover and the crank sensor your already done the hard parts to check it.

Just pop the valve cover, get under the car, rotate the engine via a wrench (clockwise) on the crankshaft nut (or by hand on the harmonic balancer) until you see the a hole in the crankshaft line up with the one on the housing, then get up top, ensure the letters on your cams are at top dead center. (if not rotate the crank shaft 360d (which will be 180d on cams) and check again. If lined up your timing is good. Strongly suggest if your considering timing chain job. (actually you cant do it without) get the specialized tool to hold the cams and crank for setting timing.

 

Also consider checking the passenger side fuse box specially if you have a sunroof. Sometime water gets in there and effects the electronics. check the connectors and the carpet for dampness.

 

Thanks for breaking it down, Jay! I will try and report back...

 

Even better - mine is a convertible! So, yeah, had already thought of that - its taken on water in the past... Thanks!

 

Well I have a nack for mechanical stuff, the timing was an intimadating job, but once i dove into it, It wasn't so bad, a couple nerve racking parts but all do able in a "home" garage. A few tools you'll need but can be done over a weekend if you get everything figured out before you dive in, will same you time going to shops and/or ordering parts.

 

Update - I just tried starter fluid, and it briefly started. My HPFP arrived in the mail today, so tomorrow I will start the install process. And, while I am at it, take off the Valve Cover and check the timing.

Question - when the car is/was running, it idles smoothly and runs well. So, do we suspect timing? I'm genuinely curious b/c I know timing chains are a big problem with these engines...

Also, when looking at the LIVE data from my BlueDriver OBD scanner, when the car stalled, the pressure in the fuel rails dove from normal (600 to 700 at idle, and up to 1500+) down to a steady 45 lbs of pressure. Also, the camshaft advance timing seems to lock in at -4 degrees?

Thanks again for any insights!

 

Another update - replaced the HPFP, checked relays and fuses, visually inspected the cabin fuse box (removed connectors to look for evidence of water), and checked the timing.

Nothing - crank, no start.

Any help? Thank you all!

 

as you have the obd scanner that can read Fuel pressure... you getting a reading? I assume you let it prime itself once the new pump was on.... might need to bleed lines, but i doubt that, someone whose done a HPFP might know more, I personally haven't gotta to this point yet... YET.

 

Thanks for the question - I appreciate you sticking with me on this.

So, when the car stalled, I had the LIVE data feed running - the rail pressure was normal, until the RPM's died. Then the rail pressure just sits comfortably below 100PSI - most of the time around 50PSI.

At the same time, the absolute manifold pressure JUMPS from normal to 29 or 30 Hg and stays there. I'm now trying to understand why my intake manifold pressure goes so high - vacuum system? I did just replace the Valve cover...

My battery is now dead from cranking it, but I don't think I was getting valid OBD readings when I was trying to crank it.

Thanks again for any thoughts!

I tried to add the LIVE data as attachments, but I don't think I was successful??

 

Replaced the JBE and it started right up! From other threads, I tested the voltage to the LPFP, and it was receiving none. Interestingly, though, the JBE had no evidence of water damage, as reported in many other threads.

I found a used JBE on eBay with the exact part number, model, etc., and so far see no evidence of needing to recode.

Hope this is helpful to someone else!

 

So I gave up on the car and just traded it in at the dealer so i never fixed it but about a week after that my other Mini Cooper developed the exact same problem. Go figure huh?? Lol. Contagious?
I ended up going through everything again and low and behold, it was a bad vanos valve. $20 off eBay and I’m good as new.
hope that helps guys..