I used a magnet on the switch to activate it for a while, like I had found on other posts here, and seemed to do the trick. Then it started fine for a while on it's it's own. Then the magnet wouldn't do the trick anymore and it seemed pushing up on the key to get it closer to the sensor for the immobilizer would do it. I also tore apart the steering column to check the ignition switch and when hot wiring it it wouldn't start the first few times just the same as before so I figure it's not that. I can push start the car so it's not the EMS but now it won't start again with the key.


​​​​​This time though there is no click from the switch or a relay or whatever but push starting it works fine. Is there a relay specifically for the clutch switch or is it the switch that used to click? I know it's a hall effect sensor but not 100% sure about a relay. I've checked newtis.info and don't see a relay but idk at this point.

​​​​​I have probed and pin 8 on the EWS box is -0.31 volts when using the black probe for ground and doesn't change whether the clutch is depressed or not. I have also checked for continuity and the wire doesn't have any breaks or shorts between the switch and the box. Is it supposed it be 12 volts or is it a signal wire? I can't find a Theory Of Operations on the clutch switch to see what exactly it's supposed to be. I'm at a loss and don't wanna fire up the parts cannon without doing more testing and research to make sure, but I haven't been able to find any more info on a relay or voltage from pin4 on the clutch switch to pin8 on the EMS. Any help is appreciated.

 

Just an update for anyone that comes across this thread, the ignition switch ended up having an intermittent fault. I replaced the switch and haven't had any problems since!

 

I know this is all late and all, but I started having the same issue. Checked everywhere and tried the magnet trick, which only made it clear to me that it was not the clutch switch. In my case, strangely enough, was the position of my steering wheel. If it's up, it won't start. Pull it down and it starts every time, well since I figured it out, just a couple of days ago. So, I have no idea WHY this works but it does. Maybe I have a short in the steering column. Any other ideas why this works???

 

In my case the ignition switch being replaced cured that issue fully, I wonder if your wiring going into the switch is at a funny angle and not getting a good connection unless the wheel is tilted down. You can test the connections with a DVOM and the column cover off, maybe it'll work when there's a probe in there making good connections. Otherwise you could find a good known used ignition switch and try it, I've never been a fan of firing the parts cannon up to diagnose problems but sometimes it's what needs done to figure out something that tests good but is bad internally.

Good luck with it, hope you can get it figured out.