Hello. I’m new here and was asked to start a new thread with my issue, so here goes. I have a built 2003 Cooper S. I actually traded a perfectly running car for this no running because of what it has. The only issue that the PO stayed was wrong was a cam sensor issue. I’ve changed the cam sensor and the pigtail. I also traced the wires to ensure there weren’t any issues down the line. I have also changed the crank sensor for hood measures. The timing, compression and fuel have also been checked and are good. I’m not getting spark. The car will turn over but not fire. I’m so eager to drive this thing and just want to get it going. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated. I can add a list of all mods if needed. I know someone has had the same problem I am having. I’ve done a lot of reading but it’s all over the place. Could it be something simple like a fuse or relay? I’m hoping so.

 

Sometimes the simple things are overlooked, so they should be checked.
The coil feed plug, Can get corroded and spark stops or is intermittent (remove the plug on the back of the coil, spray with electrical contact cleaner, remove corrosion, test to see if electricity is coming into the coil, if so replace and test with a spark plug out of the engine. Ground the spark plug and attach a coil wire, turn over the engine, to see if you are getting spark. If not, the coil could be bad. The oem type of coil, is as good as any and much better than some. You should be getting spark now, if the coil is getting a signal.

Do a thorough OBD2 test. note codes if (P0340) is still showing: may mean the maf sensor is dead, or any other components in the cam sensor circuit. (spark is first problem)
Let me know, if this does not work.

 

I have power to the plug, center wire constant battery power. The other two have nothing when cranking. I would imagine I would get something when I try to start the car because those two are signal wires. Could explain a little more how these plugs work? Should I see something on the plug when I crank the car with a test light plugged into those wires?

 

The wires are to the signal circuit, so , maf, tmaf, cam position sensor, crank position sensor, throttle position sensor and computer are all part of the circuit. You should use a BMW type OBD2 tester, so you get specific codes.

 

Ok. Makes sense. Give me a couple day’s to play with it and I’ll let you know what I come up with. Thanks for your help.

 

I did some scanning and here’s what came up. If possible, can you break down what each of these mean?

0341- camshaft sensor 1 (bank1) measuring range or power-output problem

0693- electric fan, relay 2, input low ( the fuse under the hood is blown) could this be the cause of this error?

1234- fuel pump relay, primary circuit-input low (I had the relay and fuse pulled to keep from the engine getting filled with fuel)

5E19- CAN data fault from DME/DDE (DSC lamp on as long as error is present).

Thats all I’ve come up with. What do you think?

 

I don't think these problems are too tough!

 

But no of these would cause a crank no spark though. Well other than the cam sensor. I’ve changed it twice. I can’t imagine both being bad. I’m leaning towards a jump timing issue. Thankfully it has a boost style head gasket so I have clearance on the valves. It’s going to the shop this week. I don’t want to keep throwing money at nothing. I’ll let you know what is found. How hard is it to get it back in time? I’d like to do it myself if that’s what they come back with. Or if I decide to just let them fix it, what should I expect to be charged for a timing chain repair/replace? It’s a reputable shop so I’m not worried about them shafting me. I’ve looked at all there reviews and they all seem very good.

 

Not really, damage somewhere in the sensor system, even a chewed up wire will cause no spark. The coil is normally what keeps this from happening, but even the ignition switch can cause this. (especially, if your car has been wet inside, or the sunroof leaks into the fuse box behind the kick panels).
Often the fix is fairly simple, but there are a few times, unusual things can cause this. Just remember that the control circuit is fairly vast.
Do you have an extra coil (even off a friends car to test the system)?
This would be easier to trace with a BMW specific OBD2 diagnostic scan tool. Maybe a friend with a Mini capable scan tool can help.

 

I dropped the car at the shop this morning. They specialize in German cars and the owner has a built R53. I’ll let you know what they find out. Hopefully it isn’t too bad.

 

Did you ever figure out what it was??

 

Sounds like I am in the same boat that you were... can you share what was found?

 

So what did you find out?

 

Not sure if you were directing this at me... but I just figured out my issue. The front MAP sensor. I unplugged it and was able to start the car. So, I took it out, cleaned it with sensor cleaner, and now the car starts. It still doesn't sound great, but that might be due to 9 month old gas sitting in it...