08 Mini S 112K miles
Good condition inside and out
Car runs with little power

So I bought this car from a friend at work.
His wife drove it until one day it lost power. They took it to their trusted service provider and got told the engine needed replacement due to no compression in cylinder 3. Instead of doing that, she bought a new car and it sat for a year. And recently sold it to me for $500.

So I brought it to a mechanic who worked on only BMW/MINI to get it checked out. He performed dry compression checks and also a leak down test.
-compression on 1,2, & 4 consistently around 120 ( below man. specs)
-no compression on 3
-leakdown test shows leakage on 3 ti be coming past the exhaust valve
-other cylinders have leakage past the piston rings.

He is also recommending full engine replacement.

My question is... Which direction should I go with this car. I was really hoping to get it on the road. I like the car but don't want to get tied up deeper than makes sense. I've seen several comparable cars for 5-6k

Thoughts?

 

my cylinder 3 no compression problem.

You probably need to get the head off. Worth it if you do it yourself and have a machine shop do the valve work. If you do the chain, then with all gaskets, a couple new valves and maybe some valve guides you look at parts of like $400 plus the work of the machine shop.

It takes a bit to get down there, and with going rates for a mechanic nowadays not sure if it's worth it to let somebody rebuild the engine.

 

Assuming that the car has had some modicum of decent maintenance prior to failure, there's a good chance the low compression on 1,2, and 4 is simply from the engine sitting for a year. If the engine does need replacement, I'd look for a used engine from a wreck rather than rebuilding what you've got. If the lower end is good and its just the top end of 3 that is knackered, then getting the head reconditioned would be a viable strategy.

The car almost certainly can be brought back to life, but it would also be very easy to walk away from it now and make a few $$$ in the process.

So it really boils down to whether taking on a bit of a project appeals to you.... it can be very satisfying to bring a car like this back, but it also is a hassle and has some risk. I wouldn't consider it unless you have a good independent mechanic you trust.

- Mark

 

I'd say trade it, unless you have the funds to keep throwing at it.

It's scary how quickly you can find yourself throwing money at a problem.

 

Thanks for the replies.

Talked with many mechanics trying to get a better feel for my cost involved. If I can get it running well for 4K or less I would love to have the car on the road.

--One mechanic has said he has seen timing chains cause compression issues .
Any thoughts on this?
I just wonder why or how it would create no compression on just one cylinder ..

 

I googled your issue and found another thread, maybe this will help: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ice-badly.html

 

How many miles on that car? If you look in my sig,I have instructions on how to SWAP a motor. You can get a new motor from Mini with 2 year warranty...I got mine on a special deal. Not sure if discounts still available.

 

I also concur with burned exhaust valves. Same thing on my 09 Clubman S with similar mileage. Sorted it all out with about $300 in parts and a weeks worth of wrenching. I’d totally do that on yours if it was me!

 

I would recommend doing all the valves, guides, seals, and what not, while everything is out, including a new timing chain and its supporting hardware.

Also too, replacing the water pump, rear coolant tube, and thermostat, and all the accessible gaskets and seals as well, including the oil pump/filter mount seals, which tend to leak, of course the serpentine belt, all w/everything disassembled. Check the belt tensioner's bearings. Check the cylinders for wear and tear, as well as for having a lip, and if OK, do the rings and piston rod earings. It's simpler, and cheaper to do it now w/the teardown vs. later.

Of course, if you have to pull the engine, don't forget the clutch/throw-out bearing and flywheel, if you have a manual transmission.

Any idea what causes the valves to be burned out like that, the carbon build-up perhaps?



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