Hello, my beloved car of 12+ years and 155,000 miles finally had major engine problems when I was commuting back home from vacation last week. Probably a few hundred miles from home the large check engine light came on and I experienced engine power loss shortly there after start happening. I didn't feel safe to continue the journey so I had it towed to the local dealership. Initially there were 3 cylinders misfiring. 2 of the 3 were fixed with a new intake manifold gasket. The last cylinder their recommendation was to do a timing chain and valve job (expensive) or just a new engine replacement (also expensive). I hate to get rid of this vehicle but I'm also interested in looking at smaller shop near my home to also take a look and see if that is indeed the case if they could do those jobs any cheaper. Has anyone else had either of these done and if so how much was the job?

 

welcome to the forum. always get a second and third diagnosis, if possible, on jobs like these. I have seen two cases were the shop or dealer recommended an engine replacement for what they thought was a spun bearing only to find out that the serpentine belt was chipped!!!

there are some things you can do yourself and they are rather straight forward:

1- remove spark plugs and inspect their condition
2- remove valve cover and inspect timing chain
3- perform compression check

the results will help you decide your next move.

Personally, I do engine repairs myself and currently working on a mini with a burnt valve AND damaged cylinder wall.

 

Yeah agree with MiniToBe. Also I think a new timing chain and valve job is going to cost "less" than a whole new engine. All the other stuff, plugs and coils can be done by yourself for $150. I would start with the $150 first.
Also, what is your compression on each cylinder? This is the determinate of whether you need a new engine or not or something much deeper in the engine like the spun bearing/crankshaft problem MiniToBe is referring to. Just working on the valves in the head or the timing chain on the side is <1/4 the work of a new engine. If someone said, we need to pull all the cylinders, bore, and replace, then you are looking at the cost of a new engine to be equivalent.

It is not like you get a new engine and you just plug it in. You have to do massive amount of work to get the old engine free, transfer stuff from the old engine to the new engine and put it back in. The last I looked on Ebay, a used engine was like $3000-3500 (no labor)

I think you can have the coking in the intake cleaned for about $1200 here -- probably why the gasket blew. There was no where for the air to go anymore. It will probably blow again.

 

This is what they have listed on the invoice for the compression.

"Proceeded to perform timing check took vehicle apart followed repair instructions. Took of components to remove valve cover, after removing valve cover proceeded to visually inspect area for evidence of mechanical issues and found none. Proceeded to inspect timing installed special tools as per repair instructions and found vehicle to have intake cam to be off. Proceeded to perform adjustment and rechecked compression. Upon rechecking, compression found cylinder 1 to have 180 PSI, cylinder 2 185 PSI, cylinder 3 25 PSI, cylinder 4 185 PSI. Proceeded to use pressure leak tester tool and tested cylinder 2 and found cylinder 2 pressure needle to go green. Proceeded to perform leak test cylinder 3 and found tool to read red and no pressure found. Concluded due to vehicle having pressure on cylinder 3 will need to take vehicle apart and remove head to inspect valve for any signs of damage."

 

Well, it does't sound good but is this a service company familiar with or experience with Mini Cooper's?
You could easily just have a partially stuck value open on cylinder 3 due to extensive carbon build up on the air intake. Carbon coking and build up on the Intake manifold is "very common" on Mini Coopers with 1/2 the age of yours. There may be sufficient space between the valve and cylinder not to have cause any damage.

https://www.crcindustries.com/gdi/as...esultsonly.pdf

 

I guess either way, you would have to remove the head. the cheapest damage you can have is a burned valve. the more expensive one is broken piston top thus damage cylinder wall. what are you're plans?

 

Why is that?
Remove the air filter box, get a camera in the #4 intake valves. If what I suspect is true, you can likely use a picker to clean that valve sufficiently to close it. Then retest your compression. Visually inspect that valve travel. Close all valves. Walnut blast intake. Done! If you can't close the valve. If the valve doesn't travel, then yes, you are in on removing the head, replacing valves, and possibly much much more expensive work.

Did you hear a large bang or pinging in the engine right before the suddenly loss of power?

 

I agree with you...Inspection is first. He could also do the same for the exhaust. and perhaps get a camera in the cylinder to see if there is any damage to the cylinder.

 

You never mentioned which version...S or Base. 2 different engines with 2 different potential problems!!

 

Its an S model. Right now it looks like my mechanic friend is going to tow it up to his place in Maine at the end of the month. Take a second look at it and if it comes down to it he'll be providing some cheap labor on an engine replacement if it comes to it.

 

I'm wondering what you ended up doing? I have a beautiful '07 (non-S) with pretty much the same issue on one cylinder. I'm in ME as well but it's a CA car that's in mint shape otherwise, even according to the excellent mechanics I use. I'm wondering what my options are when the time comes.