Hey everyone, brand new to the forum so excuse any of my errors in posting. Anyway I recently bought a 2007 Mini Cooper S with a little over 70k on it. Had a rough idle when I test drove it (that I attributed to the carbon build up problems on the intake valves) but no check engine lights and the car ran and looked great other wise. Drove the car about 500 miles back and forth to work etc it’s my daily driver. One day I came out from work went to start it and it just cranked did this for about 15 mins fiddled with the intake tube maf etc. hoped in and it ran fine again. Then about 300 miles later came out from work went to start it and cranks but no start and that is where the car still sits. I have two pending codes I read with my scanner a p0100 and p113b. The car does have spark I don’t think it’s getting fuel. The in tank pump didn’t seem like it was kicking on tested it it works fine. Narrowed it down to the infamous junction box in the passenger side foot well replaced it and now in tank pump works fine. Have fuel to the hpfp but not out. So I replaced the hpfp same thing just cranks and doesn’t start. When I pulled the plugs they where bone dry. Anyone have any ideas ? I miss my r53 already lol.

 

Did you try to spray quick start to at least zoom in on the fuel system?

did you check the green ground wire connect in the front middle bolt of the valve cover?

Take off the valve cover and check the timing/timing chain.

 

Ground is good and verified timing the other day. If I spray carb cleaner down the intake it coughs like it wants to start i think it’s fuel. But what are the chances a brand new hpfp is junk?

 

I recently bought refurbished hpfp and it was dead...not sure if yours was from the dealer, but there is a chance it could be dead. just to be sure, can you hear the lpfp priming?

 

It sounds like it does but I don’t get fuel out of it. I bought a refurb off amazon.

 

can you read the fuel rail pressure?

 

No I don’t have a gauge in fortunately. But if I’m not getting any fuel out of the hpfp it has to be it I would assume.

 

I was referring to a scanner to read the live data. Yeah if fuel isnt making it pass the hpfp and you know the lpfp is good, then the culprit is the hpfp. can you try to disconnect the fuel line going to the rail to visually see/not see the fuel coming out?

 

Yeah I pulled the hard line off of the hpfp and no fuel is coming out. But I have fuel too the black low pressure line on the inlet. I got a replacement hpfp today I’m going to try that. The hpfp don’t need primed or anything correct?

 

aha, good. no priming needed. the lpfp does that.

 

Ok soo new HPFP installed when to go start the car and check engine light I now how codes 2BDO 2BD2 2BD3 2BD4 bad DME ? ecu I’m assuming? Can these be replaced with a used unit or is this a deal only install ?

 

When I used to get crazy codes the made me believe the ECU is done for, I would unplug the main two plugs of the ECU (going to the engine). Then clear and scan the car. I know you will have a ton of other codes but the purpose is to see if DME related faults would still be present. If those code no longer show up, then there it is either wiring harness or a sensor causing a short. You could also buy another good used part number matched ECU and plug it in to see if these codes appear. ECU cloning would require K-Tag programmer.

 

Ok do unplugged engine harness tryd clearing codes didnt work still have the DME codes plus more.

 

yeah, I think at this point it is worth trying a used DME with a matching part number.

 

And then trying to delete the codes ? And Is there any other option for ecu or just the dealership ?

 

The purpose of the trying a donor ecu is to make sure those code don't show up. The dealer won't touch the car without telling you that you have to buy a new ecu from them and program it. Luckily, you can clone yours using K-tag. this programmer is cheap and easy to use. the hardest part is opening the cover off of the ecu. There is a guy in IL who can clone it for 300. there is another company in FL that can do it too.

 

Have you heard anything about rpmmotorsport.net ? Yeah I figured that was the purpose of the used ecu I just can’t take the time to order a used one just for diag purpose it’s my daily lol. God I should have kept my R53.

 

oh got you... ECU damage is a rare incidence. Even though it is your DD, at least check out how much it'll cost to get it back on the road and then proceed.

 

Yeah I just don’t want to order a reman offline for 800$ then it not work anyway.

 

So what if I bought something like this with the key and everything??

 

The problem with that, you have to make sure the donor car has same transmission as yours, somewhat similar options, and better yet, close mileage unless your is the higher number. You will also have a tampering dot next to the mileage indicating not original.

what is the part number of your ECU?

 

Which number do I need to match ?

 

7641103

 

Of course there are none on eBay that match.

 

Try car-part.com