Folks,
I have a 2010 R57 that starts when cold and the fuel pressure is good. I can run it for about 10 minutes, then the engine starts to starve for fuel until it dies. I then have to wait about an hour or 2 to get it to restart. I replaced the hpfp today, but the symptoms are the same. When I look at the rail pressure, it is 72 psi when I am trying to crank the engine. I know it's supposed to be around 750 psi, but I don't know what could cause the pressure to drop out. If it's not the hpfp, then what else could it be?

 

did you find a fix? I am having a similar problem. I've replaced the HPFP (don't know why I automatically went to the most $$ part - UGH!), and it did not help.

Thanks!

 

I did get this fixed. It wound up being the LPFP that is in the gas tank. The previous owner tried to fix this problem and purchased a cheap pump that didnt work. I diagnosed it by listening to the LPFP after the car ran for a while. The pump stopped working, but I still had power to the plug on top. This is why I originally didnt think it was the LPFP when I started. Apparently something was shorting out when the pump heated up. I dont know. I just replaced it with an OEM pump and have not had an issue since then. Hope this helps

 

Thanks, gresh! Did I see that you also replaced your JBE? I thought I saw that on another thread? Related? Thanks!!

 

I replaced the JBE in another mini (I have 5 of them). That can present the same problems though. The relay on the board that regulates the power to the LPFP goes bad. I think I wrote an entry on how to solder another one to the board without having to replace. It’s been a while since I’ve been on. I bought another R52S 2005 over the weekend, so I may be back on for a bit getting that one back up and healthy. Really addicting hobby

 

Ah! Your thread on the JBE was so convincing that I just went ahead and ordered one off of eBay today. Skipped the testing b/c it was so spot-on. The details and description of the stalling are exactly what I am going through. Maybe I need to test power getting to the LPFP? What are your thoughts?

Five mini's!? wow! This one is my wife's daily driver. I keep telling her, it is so well-engineered, so much fun to drive, but has sooo many problems that when she is finally done with it, I want to make it a project car...

My original post is here - https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-stalling.html Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks!!

 

So there can be so many other things going on with it that can cause the problem that you should probably do a bit more research and diagnosis. If you take out the jbe, look to see if there is water damage or burning on the fuel pump relay solder points. That is usually the indicator that water got inside somehow and shorted it.

did you say the problem is intermittent? If so, hook up a volt meter to the LPFP power leads and take it for a drive or if you have a good diagnostic computer, look at the LPFP voltage, as well as the LPFP fuel pressure and hpfp fuel rail pressure to see if they are within tolerance through your entire drive. I usually set mine to record and then play it back when I get home.

the bottom line is that it could be any one or a combination of these things, as well as others like a bad gas cap. Start cheap and work up. The JBE will need to be programmed if I am not mistaken. It will work, but needs to be coded to the other modules to keep from getting and error code. I may be wrong on that one. Let me know how it goes.

 

Hello, I have a 2009 MCS with 154K miles.

FWIW - A while ago, I had an issue were fuel pressure sendor on fuel rail went bad. Ecu was reading crazy high fuel pressure. Sourcing the fuel pressure sender was a royal pita. Dealer wanted to only provide entire fuel rail with fuel pressure sender. Removed fuel pressure sender from fuel rail to get PN. Was able to get part from Peugeot dealer in UK for ~ 30GPB.

Good luck!