Yep the thermostat with have to be moved out of the way.

 

Let's keep this going!

Last January I noticed a coolant leak that I traced to where the crossover pipe mated with the thermostat and put the blame on the cheap pipe I bought in 2021. Being January and thus cold here in the Northeast I topped off the coolant and planned to wait for warmer times to tackle the job - it wasn't a big leak. Thermostat and crossover pipe were replaced in October 2021 when the original thermostat sprung a very big leak. However as temps warmed the leak stopped. Huh? So some sort of contraction-expansion thing going on, so I forgot about it, apart from buying ECS's metal crossover pipe for future use. Well, the future was last weekend as the leak returned with a vengeance once temps got down to freezing or thereabouts overnight. So the metal pipe was installed. I unfastened the thermostat but didn't completely remove it. Everything was very stubborn as usual.

So that contraction expansion thing. Since the old crossover pipe fits over the thermostat, some contraction on the thermostat side might be more likely to induce leaking. I checked the thermostat end and it seemed fine. I was hoping to see some kind of crack in cheap pipe to feel vindicated, but I didn't. It all seemed a bit odd to me. Took the car for a ~30mile drive - well my neighbor did as he's a car guy (VWs) and he's never driven a MCS - and temps were rock solid at about 98-100C. So shall monitor for any further leaks and if they occur will be . And a new thermostat will be needed I expect.

A couple of tips from an amateur who thought it would be easier 2nd time around. I removed the coolant reservoir - easy to do and gives some much needed space. I unfastened the coolant pipe that goes to the turbo at the turbo but didn't actually remove it from the thermostat. It broke last time at the T-connection so I was very wary of its fragility. I'd recommend doing that if you are replacing the thermostat as trying to get that hose off the thermostat was very difficult first time around - assuming the thermostat can be completely extracted with that pipe still attached.

The damn clip. Spent way too much time trying to get it on. Vice grips can't reach deep enough and needle nose plier cause it to slip around a lot. Finally got it lined up on both slots on the pipe with the pliers and it slid in. Perhaps the metal crossover pipe is a bit thicker? I had been trying to rotate it in from the back of the pipe but there's a cable placed perfectly in the way and much time was wasted recovering clips that pinged off into eternity - one was never found!

I was actually able to torque the thermostat bolts to 8Nm as I'd acquired a nice 1/4" drive torque wrench in the interim! I recall my 3/8" one not having enough room for the lower bolts.

On the N18 the wiring harness is perfectly positioned to always get in the way. Looking at some old threads with pics that clip looked readily accessible.

The thermostat and crossover pipe are a right of passage for any DIY R56 owner. Be prepared!

cheers
MacMini34

 

Thanks for the update. My ECS metal one is still going strong. I am on my second thermostat housing. I am still driving the R58 until it snows here.

 

Come on man, taking away your man card, winter just makes driving a challenge. LOL, I know you guys on the East side get lake affect snow.

I do need to get my winter tires on soon though.

 

I drove my r52 Convertible year round with studded snow tires in NE Ohio and PA. LOL I have almost 300K.

I just rebuilt the underside so now I want to keep it clean. So much rust was cleaned off and repainted. Got a rust shower.

My rover is driven when it snows as its a winter beater.

 

this is a great picture. Cheap ones leak. OEM plastic leaks. Sigh.

who has been running the ECS metal pipe for a good amount of miles? What’s your honest review aboot performance? And what gaskets are ECS supplying? Thx :-)

 

are you running the metal thermostat and metal water pump now???

 

I have a ECS Metal water pipe, new plastic thermostat housing (we did not have the metal thermostat in stock yet) and the original water pump. When my thermostat housing goes, i am going to the metal bremmen one. One guys here, his genuine thermostat and pipe went so he is running the metal ECS pipe and bremmen parts metal thermostat and the new water metal impeller pump.

 

awsome! How long did do you think everything was installed, all the metal? I’ve got all 3 of yours order out for delivery. Sorry to beat a dead horse but these metal upgrades are only exciting if they’re performing in the field :-)

 

Thanks, glad to help. It took me a couple hours due the pipe is on the back side of the engine and a little hard to reach. The thermostat and waterpump are not that hard.

 

sorry for confusion… how long have all the metal parts been running in that car you mentioned? And I do I have to get the good quality OEM o-rings for ECS metal pipe? Or they included?

 

Over a year on mine, yep they include the larger o-ring (only for our pipe) see picture on our site and we sell them on their own also just incase you damage one.

https://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_...al_Water_Pipe/

 

orings yes sir! You said over a year how many miles? Daily driving? Weekends?

 

I dove it almost 15,000 miles, daily through extreme heat (near 100 F) and cold. Everyday to work and back, thats 1hr drive daily each way in traffic. The other guy drove his R56 Cooper S during the dead winter also and it was -15 degree F here. -20 wind chill. Last week.

I dont think you could put them through a harsher test. lol

 

darn straight! :-)