I discovered an intermittent coolant leak on my new to me 07 Mini; its dripping from the bottom of the bell housing and had some on top of the transmission. Reading numerous threads here it looks like is time for a thermostat housing, although I can never see it actually leak. I ordered the t-housing and the plastic pipe going to the water pump, both OEM Mini parts.

Today I took the T-housing and water pipe off which was pretty easy. I also took the intake manifold off because I think it will be much easier to clean the area behind the pump and I can see what I am doing when put the pipe back in. The intake was a bit of a PIA because it has a hidden support bracket. While I am working on the cooling system I will also replace the plastic water pump with an aluminum version to prevent future problems. The T-housing and water pipe where still the original parts based on the 06/08 date stamp (my car was buit in 09/08).

I have to say that I find this forum very helpful.

 

Yep, good tool is take the OEM part number 11 digits and pop it into the search box (search threads) on this forums. Most of the time you will find people talking about it.

 

Good job - get the right coolant - sounds like you know to already. If your coolant pipe comes with extra tabs, cut them off prior to trying to reinstall.

 

Everything is back together and no leaks anymore, last thing I did today was to replace the serpentine belt and friction wheel. Hopefully I have everything sorted out now and just drive it.

The only issue left is that the yellow gear light stays on. I have a 6-speed manual and from what I understand that warning light is for automatic transmission cars only (per owner's manual). I asked about that in a separate thread but never got a reply. I guess everybody is a baffled as I am about that.

 

I just had my plastic tube behind the engine fail as well, so I'm replacing everything, the tube, thermostat, water pump, belt, whatever is accessible, including the timing chain assembly, I'm replacing it.

I was going to replace the water pump w/one which has a metal impeller myself, but was told that the Mini OEM is the better way to go, despite it being plastic.

When my tubing failed, all I got was an engine warning light, when I happened to park the vehicle. I immediately looked it up, and the manual said to make an appointment w/a local Mini Service, which I immediately did, but that I can still drive, but taking it easy. I immediately drove home, but less than a mile or so from there, another light came on, stating that it was detuning the engine, and to immediately park the vehicle. Less than a mile home, I drove it very carefully home, but on the way, I got a low oil pressure warning at a Stop Light. At home, it was steaming as I drove in. I went and checked under the hood, the coolant was empty, and the oil, it was still full, w/no smell. I had just had it changed. I saw no coolant leakage anywhere, nor temperature warning. I figure, the tube must of failed and drained out while driving.

I just bought the vehicle back in October, w/only 54,000 miles on it, but luckily I bought an extended warranty on it. It appears that the warranty will cover it, but I told the dealer, everything accessible, not covered, to replace w/a new part, and that I'll pay for it, like the water pump, timing chain assembly, and such. The vehicle is in absolute mint condition, w/low mileage, which is why I bought it.

 

Good idea on replacing cooling system parts while they are in there. The timing chain you want replaced is not even remotely related to what they will do and it will cost you a small fortune to have it done. Better wait until it starts to make noise and then have them fix it under your extended warranty.

I just recently bought my Mini and the last owner had the timing chain/guides replaced and the head rebuilt (about 2000 miles ago), my engine runs smooth as silk and is quiet, so I am good there. He also had the clutch replaced.

Despite some major work done prior to purchasing the car I still had to address the cooling system, parking brake cables, the front brake pads and some minor regular maintenance items. One thing I learned is that you have to take a lot of stuff of to get to anything but overall the Mini is easy to work on.

 

With the valve cover off, there's evidence of the timing chain having been replaced by some incompetent mechanic or do it yourselfer. Not only was one of the bolts for the timing chain not original, but who ever did it, used what appears to be a vise grip for turning both the CAMs, leaving groves on the CAM journels.

After seeing that, I'm not taking any chances, so I'm replacing the head w/a new rebuilt one.

The reason for the broken cooling tube in the back of the engine was also due to someone not installing it correctly too.

That's why I'm going throughout the engine.

I had the oil pan dropped as well to check for any broken plastic timing chain tensioner pieces, just in case. It was clean. The broken plastic pieces tend to fall down there when they fail, and tend to be ignored by all except the skilled and experienced mechanics.

They also used nothing but silicon gasket sealant rather than using OEM gaskets.

A compression check was done on each of the cylinders, and they checked out OK, especially when it comes to the piston rings. Some kind of a fluid check will be done on each of the cylinders, which will sit over night to also check the rings as well. The engine only has around 55,000 miles on it.

I had the vehicle checked out by a Mini dealer when I bought it, and it checked out OK. Of course they can't see inside the engine w/o doing a teardown.

The warranty I bought appears to be covering everything, including the rebuilt cylinder head, though I don't know about any non-related items like the belt, tensioner, and such.

I just figure, whatever is removed or accessible, to replace. That's just the way I am. If the block were to be removed, I would do the clutch assembly as well, but it mostly won't be. Of course, I can only go so far.

Outside of the engine issues, the vehicle is in mint condition, which is why I bought it. This is my second Mini S.

 

If your extended warranty company will pay for it by all means have it done. The Wisegrip marks are probably from using pliers to lock the cams in order to replace the timing chain.

 

Outside of a Specialized Mini Tool, a nylon strap wrench would of been the better option.

Those vice grip marks are stress points, which, possibly over time, could crack.

 

Those marks won't hurt anything. Not a great mechanic to lose a bolt and have to find a replacement. But if the replacement works what's the issue?

 

Nor for a mechanic to use a vise grip on the CAMs as well.

I was going to take a small file and take the sharp edges off of those vise grip marks on the CAMs, and be done w/it, and as for that Japanese bolt, replace it w/the proper OEM one, but was told that my warranty will cover for a whole new rebuilt head assembly. We'll have to see on that.

I had plans for that engine, w/a JCW Performance Kit, together w/a replacement Intercooler, and an eventual larger Turbo (JCW) w/a Hi-Flow Cat, so I wanted a 100% OEM engine to begin with. I'll have to wait on that until I put a few miles on the rebuilt engine, probably spring time.

I'll probably install either the M7 High Flow Intercooler Pipe Kit or one from NM Engineering before then.

I use to own a 2010 S Hatchback, which I had fixed up w/a JCW Performance Kit, but traded it in on a new 2013 Jeep Wrangler JKU.

 

Well it turns out that that my warranty won't cover anything. The Mini dealer told them more than what the core issue was, that of the failed coolant pipe. It was also determine that the water pump failed, or about to as well.
The warranty company determine that the issue was a pre-existing issue before purchase.

I went to the original dealer from which I purchased my Mini, it was shy of 30 days from purchase, and they agreed to go halves w/me, including having a local Mini Mechanic do all the work.

Work done, new Water Pump, Rear Coolant Tube, Thermostat, Serpentine Belt, Oil Pump/Fuel Housing Gaskets replaced, as well as any other accessible Gaskets/Seals, etc. OEM parts only.

New replacement rebuilt Cylinder Head, w/new Head Bolts/Washers, Head Gasket, and Valve Cover Gasket. New Spark Plugs. New Timing Chain Assembly. OEM

The mechanic went one step further, though it didn't need it, w/replacing the Piston Rings and Piston Rod Bearings. Since everything was open and accessible, he decided to simply replace them.

Mini Anti-Freeze, Mogul 0W-40 Full Synthetic Engine Oil.

Total cost out of my pocket, $1200.00, w/the dealer I bought it from, covering the rest, which is more than 50%, for sure. 😊

So far, I've driven around 500 miles, taking it easy, and checking the fluids. She's runs great!

The dealer I bought it from, also sold me the warranty, and so he is fighting to get something back from them.

 

The mechanic who did the work knows a thing or two about the fundamental issues with the Prince engine. The factory fitted single piece oil control ring is the cause of the high oil consumption typically experienced by mini owners. When taking the head off its not that much more work to drop the sump and remove the piston assemblies, after which replacing the rings is a straight forward task. You always replace the big end bearings - not that expensive and ensures the bearing tolerance is correct when reassembled.