2007 MCS with possible blown head gasket. I just bought this Mini (3rd in the family) and it's my first Gen 2. Looking for some recommendations. Here's what I know. The PO hit a small dog a few months back; as a result they replaced the inter-cooler, also replaced the turbo (not sure why). Said the car ran fine for a few weeks and then started overheating. Claimed the "green" high temp light came on and they would shut the engine down and let it cool off. Said the "red" light never came on.

The engine started and ran great so I didn't think it was a blown head gasket. I figured it was likely the thermostat because the car has just over 78K so I ordered a new thermostat housing, new cross over tube and was also going to check the intake ports/valves for carbon buildup. When I drained the radiator I noticed some oil floating on the coolant in the pan I caught the coolant in.

Question: Could it be oil from the turbo/inter-cooler change; more specifically the engine oil cooler gaskets and oil housing gaskets?

I'm leaning toward just going ahead and removing the head and replacing the timing chain/water pump while I'm at it. My current parts list:

Cylinder Head Bolt Set
Head Gasket +0.3 mm (1.20 mm)
Crankshaft Seal (75 X 61 X 8 mm) (Front)
Timing Chain Kit
Belt - A/C, Alternator, Water Pump 6K X 906
Drive Belt Tensioner (Friction Wheel) - A/C, Alternator, Water Pump Belt
Gasket Set - Oil Filter Housing To Block
Gasket Set - Engine Oil Cooler to Oil Filter Housing
Water Pump with Gasket

Any recommendations?

 

One more gasket set --- the one with all the gaskets for "stuff" attached to the head. And if you remove the fuel injectors, there's a special tool needed to put it back together --- injector seals should be part of the gasket set I'm suggesting. Your two gasket sets for oil filter can be found in one kit. Ensure the chain kit has new bolts for cam sprockets.

Belt tensioner might be overkill, unless it appears defective --- not a common failure. New belt is good maintenance practice.

Maybe do a new chain tensioner too? Especially if still OEM. Check the vacuum pump closely. When they seize, it can break cam, valves, pistons, etc.

Oil in the coolant is usually from head gasket leaks or the oil filter / cooler housing. Possibly a cracked block, head, or turbo but not likely. Maybe ensure the turbo oil / coolant lines are connected properly.

Strongly suggest using the repair procedures and torque specs in the newtis web site --- https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...aft/1VnY7d2Xnh

Keep us posted with your progress, and best of luck ---

 

Wow...great advice. I'll definitely get the kits then. Sounds like changing the vacuum pump may be a good idea just to be safe. Great link...thanks! I planed on getting a copy of the Bentley manual...I've got one for my 2006 Mini's...

Do mean this set? MINI Head Gasket Set - Victor Reinz 02-38010-02
or this set? MINI Head Gasket Set - Genuine Mini Part #: 11-12-0-427-690-BOE (Can't tell what's in this set).

 

Bentley manual is good, newtis is better. I use both.

The Mini part number is the one I used before I found the same kit at forum vendors. It has all the needed gaskets, o-rings, etc. I ordered the Victor Reinz kit from ECS but they sent elring set --- didn't have the FI seals. They made it right but took an extra few days --- frustrating. The VR # 02-38010-02 looks like the correct one, but I can't be sure by looking at their website pic. not a great description either. ECS uses their own PN, so can't correlate them.

 

Thank you! I'll make sure where ever I order it from I've got all the gaskets to include the FI. I watched the video's put out by Mod Mini a few times now which included replacing the head gasket for a Gen 2...it wasn't the R56 but it was the non-turbo N14 so should be pretty close to the same less the extras for the turbo. Thanks again for the info on the newtis site...that's the first time I've seen it.

Oh...meant to ask...I saw a vacuum pump rebuild kit..do you recommend replacing the vacuum pump or using the rebuild kit. It looks like it's mostly seals/rings.

 

I can't imagine seals and rings preventing a pump from locking up, 'specially an old one. I'm told they aren't that expensive, compared to the HPFP, so I'd invest in a complete unit, made in the USA.

BTW, an R56 non-turbo engine is the N12. And when it comes to parts, be sure to check the RealOEM website for illustrated parts breakdown and numbers --- http://www.realoem.com/bmw/index.do

 

Rgr that! Thanks again for all the advice. I'll keep you posted. I'm taking things off a little at a time and setting everything aside in order. I'm going to print the link you sent me so I've got that to reference when I'm out at the shop.

I don't already have the Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool Kit yet...ordering it today along with a 27mm socket for the timing tensioner so I'm not in a hurry. We've got a local guy who only does heads/valves I'm going to take the head to for resurfacing and to get a general cleanup. The last head I took him came back looking like a brand new head without any carbon anywhere. He checks all the valves while he's doing his thing.

This is the first time I've had a car in my shop we built last summer so I've got plenty of room...just no electricity yet...still running an extension cord from the house.

 

Talk to the head shop about seating the FI seals for you. His price might be less than the tool price and it's pretty much a one-time use tool --- not used often unless you specialize in Mini repair.

Eventually you're gonna need a full set of metric tools --- ¼" and ½" drive sockets for sure ⅜" drive set is convenient too. Full set of box end wrenches. Full set of torx, both male and female --- I prefer socket mounted instead of "allen wrench L" shaped. Big ½" torque wrench, and a small ⅜" torque wrench capable of going down to 0.6Nm --- most don't go that low --- needed for chain tensioner adjustment. Look for a "twin bar" type wrench that isn't spring loaded, cheaper too.

 

Well, drained the oil and found no evidence of water in the oil, poured the coolant I had drained from the Mini and noticed a coppery residue on the bottom of the pan almost like copper flakes so I think the PO and/or their mechanic put something in the radiator in hopes of sealing a leak...got the front end/exhaust & turbo off...took off the oil filter housing and this is what I found.

Thoughts? I'm thinking it's only a oil filter housing/heat exchange leak..I haven't taken the heat exchange off from the housing yet..

 

Looks like both these gaskets are shot. However, since both oil and coolant are under pressure, I don't see a path for either one to leak into the other. Maybe when you get the assembly apart, you'll find a path between the two chambers.

 

I'll take the heat exchange off tomorrow and see how it looks under neath. Will still need to replace the valve cover, add a catch can, and change the timing chain. Just not sure I want to take the heads off if I don't have to.

 

While you have the head off, replace the valve seats.

http://www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB113017-1.pdf

 

Does this apply to the N14 engine as well? The TB was for the N12.

 

For your timing chain kit, do yourself a favor and try to avoid buying on Amazon and Ebay. There are two versions of the chain length and while we all know the difference amongst the N12 through N18 motors, lots sellers on Ebay and Amazon doesn't. Their description may be too general and last thing you want is to buy the wrong chain.

Additionally, for those TTY bolts to secure your crankshaft gear and camshaft sprocket/gear, make sure you buy Genuine MINI parts. I've done several timing job on these motors., and there are times those aftermarket bolts snap(especially the Amazon/Ebay set). The OEM TTY bolts have been fine if you follow along with the instructions, if you must skimp, then at least buy from reputable sources such as ECS/Pelican/FCPEURO.

RealOEM and NewTis are your best source for procedures and correct part numbers. Good luck motoring.

 

Thanks for the advice...will definitely get OEM TTY bolts for the crank/camshaft sprocket/gear...same if I wind up doing a head gasket.

I have accounts with all three of the sources you mentioned...have ordered many times over the past 11 years for my R50 and for the past 3 years for my R53.

 

Those gaskets are shot, i did mine also when i did the turbo oil lines. They can leak oil down the front of the car right between the engine and trans and down around the downpipe connection. We have the correct chains, just select your model. I see a bunch on ebay and they mix up the years and parts. Just take the OEM MINI part Number and copy and paste it into the search bar at the top 99% of the time you will find a DIY or a post i am helping people with.

Realoem: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select

TIS: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

R56 MINI Cooper S 2007 on ecstuning : https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2007-..._1.6L_N14B16A/


DIY on Oil filter housing Gaksets, Turbo Lines, Thermostat housing...etc

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html

 

Took the heat exchange off this morning and found a lot of scratches and a few gouges on the surface. You can see them clearly in the pictures. Looks like someone did this previously and don't think they were very concerned about doing a good job.


Oil filter housing after I removed the heat exchange.

Heat exchange surface as removed.

Oil filter housing after I cleaned it up a bit

Oil filter housing engine side after being cleaned up a bit.

Heat Exchange after being cleaned up a bit.

 

Yep, its been done before on that heat exchanger side.

 

Do you recommend I get a replacement heat exchange or clean this one up/sand with 800 - 1500 grit sand paper to smooth out the scratches on the surface?

 

Forgot to ask...originally started taking it down because the PO reported it had started overheating. When I drained the coolant I found some oil (not a lot) on the surface of the coolant. I have a new thermostat and have the front end of the car off...did not remove the compressor/coil but moved it to the side cautiously.

Looks like the PO / mechanic replaced the auxiliary coolant pump...everything was bright and shinny.

Will take the valve cover off today and get a better look at the timing chain but figured it's a good idea to replace the timing chain regardless since I've got it this far apart. Have not been able to look at the intake valves yet but I do have the intake manifold off. Have not removed the fuel injectors, HPFP, or the vacuum pump yet...

Do you think this looks like a blown head gasket or just bad job on the heat exchange?

 

Clean it up, i dont see any big cuts in it or anything. Use some ultrafine fabric backed sandpaper and just make sure you clean it out, change the oil and do a coolant flush also so you dont contaminate the systems. Might be a bad job and they mix the stuff, the only way to check on the head gasket is a leak down test and or compression test.

 

You should run a compression test to see if each cylinder still holds up normal pressure. If the cylinders checked out, it's likely just the heat exhcanger.

 

Great advice...I'll do the compression test before I take the valve cover off.

Here's the picture of the heat exchange after I wet sanded it a bit with 400, 1000, then 1500...much better.


After wet sanding with 400, 1000, and 1500 grit sand paper.

 

Well done!

 

Probably a dumb question...but is it OK to do the compression test on the engine cold? I'm not ready to start putting things back together just yet. Also...drained the oil yesterday. If I remember right you just turn the engine over about 10 rounds for each cylinder.