Hello All,

I'm looking for some help. I've read through the strings and watch several YouTube videos. So first the background. I had a leaking thermostat housing. I called the local Mini Service Center that has serviced my 2012 Mini Cooper S 6spd in the past and got the part numbers for what I needed. I then placed an order with ECS Tuning for the thermostat housing, temp sensor adapter and water pipe; all OEM.

My system had the bleed screw temperature sensor already installed.

The new thermostat housing has the temperature sensor made into the housing and the bleed screw port beside it.

I got everything installed, bled he system with the heater on. Let it cool, made sure fluid level was good then took for test drive. I had the Torque App installed and was watching the temperature and faults. I immediately got fault P0128. The temperature only got up to about 128 F.

Next day I went back in and made sure all the connections we're good and I bled the system again. Started up and still have the P0128 and the cooling fan stays on for a long time. I cleared the code but it keeps coming back and my temperature doesn't go over 118 F.

I called the Mini Service Center and asked for help. They told me you are supposed to bleed the system while revving the engine to 2500-3000rpm. They also suggested the parts aren't OEM Mini.

One more thing, the barrel style temperature sensor appears To have been a mod by MINI/BMW during a passed repair. It has one plug that goes to the wiring harness and a 2nd 4 pin plug that went to the old thermostat. The new adapter I received plugs to the 4pin plug of the old barrel temperature sensor, and 2 more plugs that go to the new thermostat. I have the barrel temperature sensor zip tied to the wiring bundle. It Does not fit into the bleed port of the new thermostat because it’s threads are too small. I’m assuming that’s ok since it’s obsolete now that the new thermostat has a built in sensor.

After all this, I still have the fault.

Can you all offer any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

 

So did you connect the 4 pin plug of the extension harness to the 4 pin of the main harness? Then, one of the two plugs goes to the thermostat and the other to the temp sensor, on the new assembly? Did you leave the metal elbow unconnected?

Use realoem.com to verify water pipes connection. Bleeding the system doesn't require that rpm range! With car off, open the screw until coolant starts to seep without bubbles. Close it and start the car with both fan and temp on high. Let it run till the cabin becomes hot. You may rev it few times to help it heat up fast. Once you reach temp, shut off the car and check the coolant level. At least that's i do it

The temp doesnt go higher than what you said because the fan keeps it cool as if you have the AC on.

 

I’ll go and check again but for some reason I think that I couldn’t just plug into the main. However the barrel sensor is out of the thermostat and just zipped tied to the side.

The barrel temperature sensor that was already there had 2 plugs: 1 went to the main harness and the other went to the thermostat. My new adapter connected to the plug of the barrel sensor that previously was plugged into the old thermostat.

I’ll recheck tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

Thanks.

 

Could you also please attach some pix? The old temp sensor should be free standing with no wiring going to it, i believe.

 

UPDATE: Definite brain fart on my part. I removed the barrel sensor from the main harness again (insert brain fart). I plugged the new adapter directly into the main harness. I was able to get the car up to proper operating temp of about 220 F and the fan came and and regulated. I was also able to clear the fault code and turn on the check engine light.

Thanks! I now have Q-Tip back on the road.